Mopar 2" kit Stab link measurements

[Camaroboi13]

That’s a mess. Looks like you’ve got springs upside down, axle not centered, no track bar, lots of work to be done. The good news is the sway bar links are probably fine.

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[The Yeti]

Lmao nope your observations from those photos are incorrect. There are definately track bars on the front and the rear too. The springs are correct and not upside down.. axles are possibly not centered not really a concern yet until I sort it all out. But you definately can't tell that by those photos. Thanks for that opinion though.

 

[JTenn]

@The Yeti It is hard to tell exactly what you have on your hands but it is clear something isn't done correctly. It's hard to diagnose from pics but it appears someone did some kind of spacer lift on the cheap but didn't complete the entire lift. The front coils look really compressed which tells me the shocks are completely extended and under spring load from the compressed springs. The Mopar lift (and others) achieve lift by using longer springs AND SHOCKS. I'm assuming this lift is using spacers and someone didn't bother with installing the longer shocks to complete the lift. I think if you remove the spacers and bump stops you'll be back to stock. It appears you definitely still have stock shocks installed. This is why you have limited down travel because the shocks are already extended to the bottom of thier travel. You could use shock extensions but I don't trust things like that. That's just my opinion though and people use them all the time. I just prefer to spend a little extra money to do it right. I have the Mopar lift and 1-1/2" Teraflex spacers. You can see the spring compression difference between mine and yours. Good luck with your project.

EDIT:
I see that there are shock extensions already installed but something doesn't look right. It appears there is literally an inch or less travel space in the front bump stops. Something is limiting the up travel or there is some serious weight out front compressing everything down.

 

[The Yeti]

Yea there is a shock extension about 2" from bolt to bolt. The front bumper weighs about 75lbs and the winch around the same. So an extra 150lbs ish or so up front. Other than that things I do know are coil spacer (measures about 2.25 - 2.5"), stablizer link measures 10" bolt to bolt, amd bumpstop spacer measures about 2.5". This is the front the rear Im not positive but looks to have a bumpstop spacer and I can only assume a coil spacer also with what I think is the stock stab link.
Thank you for your pics. That gave me something (not stock to stock but something at least) to compare to. I was always wondering about the coil looking compressed at the top. Your thoughts on the shock limiting and 'pre-compressing' the suspension makes sense BUT, I do have shock extensions that are close to the spacers measurement. So this still stumps me.

 

[JTenn]

Yea there is a shock extension about 2" from bolt to bolt. The front bumper weighs about 75lbs and the winch around the same. So an extra 150lbs ish or so up front. Other than that things I do know are coil spacer (measures about 2.25 - 2.5"), stablizer link measures 10" bolt to bolt, amd bumpstop spacer measures about 2.5". This is the front the rear Im not positive but looks to have a bumpstop spacer and I can only assume a coil spacer also with what I think is the stock stab link.
Thank you for your pics. That gave me something (not stock to stock but something at least) to compare to. I was always wondering about the coil looking compressed at the top. Your thoughts on the shock limiting and 'pre-compressing' the suspension makes sense BUT, I do have shock extensions that are close to the spacers measurement. So this still stumps me.

I have 150-175ish in bumper and winch as well. The bump stops that came with the Mopar kit are around 2" tall. I'm guessing but there's probably 4" space between the bump stops and pads on mine. If you jack up on the frame of your truck does the wheel immediately start lifting or does the suspension unload before the wheel lifts? This would tell you quickly if your shock is at full extension at rest.

 

[The Yeti]

The jeep doesnt lift. I have to lift it up pretty high before the tire comes off the ground when jacking on the frame rail. There is some travel for sure. The downward travel looks to be likited by thatbunpstop with my whole 1.5-2" of down travel though.
I had unbolted the shock and stsb link one tike and readjuster the coil to sit properly on the "isolator" underneath because i noticed it had a tiny gap between the part that stops when its in place correctly and everything seemed like it was working as it should for the most part to an untrained eye anyway. 4" distance between bumpstops/stop spacer is another good bit of info I've noted here. Also curious on this measurements for you rear bumpstop/spacer dostance with the Mopar kit.

Edit: I should ad, I put on the Mopar 2" LCA's a few weeks ago too, but that shouldn't affect any of what's going on here. Also, to be clear, a couple of those pics are obviously the rear too

 

[JTenn]

The jeep doesnt lift. I have to lift it up pretty high before the tire comes off the ground when jacking on the frame rail. There is some travel for sure. The downward travel looks to be likited by thatbunpstop with my whole 1.5-2" of down travel though.
I had unbolted the shock and stsb link one tike and readjuster the coil to sit properly on the "isolator" underneath because i noticed it had a tiny gap between the part that stops when its in place correctly and everything seemed like it was working as it should for the most part to an untrained eye anyway. 4" distance between bumpstops/stop spacer is another good bit of info I've noted here. Also curious on this measurements for you rear bumpstop/spacer dostance with the Mopar kit.

Edit: I should ad, I put on the Mopar 2" LCA's a few weeks ago too, but that shouldn't affect any of what's going on here.

So the whole springs being compressed and small amount of space in the bump stops has me baffled. Unfortunately an internet diagnoses won't help you much. Do you have an issue of bottoming out easily? Wondering if your springs are weak. You mentioned having limited down travel. Just asking, are you disconnecting the end links when off roading? If you're not, this will limit your "flex" if that's what you're referring too when you say not much down travel. The sway bar is supposed to limit travel and mitigate body roll when all connected. If it were my truck, this is what I would do. I would buy 2"-2-1/2" lift coils of whatever brand, 2" bump stop pads, and adjustable sway bar end links. Ditch the unknown spacer stuff and install known parts. I'm saying 2" since you already have the longer LCA'S. I would also get new proper length shocks. The Mopar kit is fine but it's way over priced for what you get. That being said it has almost everything you need to complete the lift. I say almost because it doesn't include a longer track bar. On a 2" lift the axle offset is minimal but it will be off center. So I would also buy an adjustable track bar. So in conclusion, you need at minimum:
1. Front coils
2. Rear coils
3. Front shocks
4. Rear shocks
5. Front bump stop pads
6. Rear bump stop pads
7. Adjustable front track bar
8. Adjustable front sway bar links
9. Adjustable rear sway bar links
10. Adjustable rear track bar

You can source all this way cheaper than what the Mopar kit will cost. I'm not trying to bust you down on your rig but whatever someone else did is not right and you would be safer to just start over in my opinion.

 

[The Yeti]

This is exactly the train of thought I've been on. The limited down travel I mentioned is based soley on the space between the bump stop and bump stop spacer as shown in the pics. There is literally next to no space or very minimal at most.
My thoughts were leave the 2" bump stop spacer and put on the Mopar 2" coils (I'll need the lower 'isolators' too), end links(adjustable like your JKS sound like a good option), longer shocks to match(TBD probbably based on cost for now knowing I may upgrade one day), and for the rear get the Mopar 2" coils, ends links and shocks. Then in the future look in to adjustable track bars. Thinking then I could start from there and know what I have. Basically real similarto what you just posted. Sounds like I'm on the right track with those thoughts then? I am curious on your bump stop travel measueent on the rear with your 2" Mopar kit and what model you have(I've been assuming its not a Rubi?). I'm thinking I willget a slight bit more lift (maybe?) more than I have mow woth the Mopar 2" coils beong they say you would get a bit more on a lesser model like my 80th Anni. Buying the parts rather than the Mopar kit is definately cheaper. Ill save a lot buying coils/parts separately and doing my own shocks etc vs buying the e tire Mopar2" kit which they want about $4,000 for partsonly in herein Canada

 

[JTenn]

This is exactly the train of thought I've been on. The limited down travel I mentioned is based soley on the space between the bump stop and bump stop spacer as shown in the pics. There is literally next to no space or very minimal at most.
My thoughts were leave the 2" bump stop spacer and put on the Mopar 2" coils (I'll need the lower 'isolators' too), end links(adjustable like your JKS sound like a good option), longer shocks to match(TBD probbably based on cost for now knowing I may upgrade one day), and for the rear get the Mopar 2" coils, ends links and shocks. Then in the future look in to adjustable track bars. Thinking then I could start from there and know what I have. Basically real similarto what you just posted. Sounds like I'm on the right track with those thoughts then? I am curious on your bump stop travel measueent on the rear with your 2" Mopar kit and what model you have(I've been assuming its not a Rubi?). I'm thinking I willget a slight bit more lift (maybe?) more than I have mow woth the Mopar 2" coils beong they say you would get a bit more on a lesser model like my 80th Anni. Buying the parts rather than the Mopar kit is definately cheaper. Ill save a lot buying coils/parts separately and doing my own shocks etc vs buying the e tire Mopar2" kit which they want about $4,000 for partsonly in herein Canada

Yes you're on the right track. The front spring isolators may or may not be needed with other brand of coils. I'm not sure if they ship them when purchased. But they're mainly to direct the spring bow. There are other spring perch options available too. Mine is a Willys, same as a sport. The measurement is right at 3-1/2" at rest. The rectangular box is the bump stop pad from the kit. I've included pics of the upper spring bucket as well. Ignore the lower isolators for your current build. They are correction isolators from me rotating my pinion angle and needing to bring my springs back in proper alignment.

 

[JTenn]

I should also mention, it doesn't matter whether it's a rubi or not. The lift kits are the same. Only varies between diesel or non diesel because of the weight difference. My axles are out of a Rubicon but I had the lift installed before I swapped axles.

 

[Camaroboi13]

Lmao nope your observations from those photos are incorrect. There are definately track bars on the front and the rear too. The springs are correct and not upside down.. axles are possibly not centered not really a concern yet until I sort it all out. But you definately can't tell that by those photos. Thanks for that opinion though.

If you’ve got track bars they need some major adjustments. Everyone has track bars. Maybe I should’ve been more specific with adjustable track bars. Front and rear bump stop length is going to be different on every vehicle. There isn’t a real answer for an exact measurement on that.

 

[The Yeti]

Yes you're on the right track. The front spring isolators may or may not be needed with other brand of coils. I'm not sure if they ship them when purchased. But they're mainly to direct the spring bow. There are other spring perch options available too. Mine is a Willys, same as a sport. The measurement is right at 3-1/2" at rest. The rectangular box is the bump stop pad from the kit. I've included pics of the upper spring bucket as well. Ignore the lower isolators for your current build. They are correction isolators from me rotating my pinion angle and needing to bring my springs back in proper alignment.

Awesome, thanks again for the info and pics. This is exactly the info I need and am looking for to make a good informed decision on what I need and can do and for comparission to what I have going on, on mine. I havent been able to find anything locally (even online for somthing that makes sense uo here not shipped across the border) for lower 'isolators' other than the Mopar ones. Maybe rancho or somthing can't rember but didnt look too far in to them because they mentioned something about their kit so I didn't dive down that rabbit hole(got enough going on I'm sorting out for now haa). That rear lower bump stop in that pic looks real similar to what I have on mine already. That measurememt looks like its gona be close to. I'll get out the tape measure tomorrow after work to see how close. I'm thinking my rear has a spacer too being it has that bump stop extension and similar distance between the stop and I do still have some rake from front to back which I prefer. When the time comes I swap the coils is there a rubber piece I need to reuse up top between the coil and the spacer or between the spacer amd the bucket on the frame? I've only dealt with torsion bar style independent fro t suspension in the past so sorry for the dumb question.
I looked at some 2.5" spacer i structions and see on that one they saod to cut the "nubs" off a rubber piece so I assume it matters which way that goes back on also?

 

[JTenn]

Awesome, thanks again for the info and pics. This is exactly the info I need and am looking for to make a good informed decision on what I need and can do and for comparission to what I have going on, on mine. I havent been able to find anything locally (even online for somthing that makes sense uo here not shipped across the border) for lower 'isolators' other than the Mopar ones. Maybe rancho or somthing can't rember but didnt look too far in to them because they mentioned something about their kit so I didn't dive down that rabbit hole(got enough going on I'm sorting out for now haa). That rear lower bump stop in that pic looks real similar to what I have on mine already. That measurememt looks like its gona be close to. I'll get out the tape measure tomorrow after work to see how close. I'm thinking my rear has a spacer too being it has that bump stop extension and similar distance between the stop and I do still have some rake from front to back which I prefer. When the time comes I swap the coils is the rubber piece I need to reuse up top between the coil and the spacer or between the spacer amd the bucket on the frame? I've only dealt with torsion bar style independent fro t suspension in the past so sorry for the dumb question.
I looked at some 2.5" spacer i structions and see on that one they saod to cut the "nubs" off a rubber piece so I assume it matters which way that goes back on also?

Yours absolutely has a spacer on top of the coil that shouldn't be there. I suppose that's what kind of lift it has. But I'm assuming that particular lift uses the stock coils. It's doing the same thing as longer coils but it's just not a good way to do it. It's too far out side of the design parameters for the stock coils and I just wouldn't do it that way. The rubber isolator you need to reuse is located up top and the nub is important since that keeps the spring indexed in the correct position. The bottom side of the rear coil sits directly on the spring perch on the axle. You're questions are not dumb so keep asking. That's how we become better at what we do. I just hope my answers make sense. If not I'll keep breaking them down.

 

[The Yeti]

Appreciate the replies. Everything you've said makes sense. So, I just read one brands spacer lift instructions saying that you need to cut thise nubs off on the front. I dont know if that was done yet. But say I get parts and tear in to it and those nubs are gone. I guess then I need to buy a new rubber piece with the nubs then from what your saying. Probabnly best to buy it in advance i stead of taking it apart and finding out I guessed right and putting it back together until parts arrive. That will probably be the cheapest part of the order. My plan is to order shocks first. I'll pomder and decide for sure whether I put them on in advance or wait until I order the rest. Then Ill order the coils, stab links and isolators. Should save about $2k this way vs just ordering the kit. This puts me on a happy medium vs the buy it and drive it decision when I bought it a year ago and the finding out its not stock, getting denied warranty on a drag link because of this "lift" I didn't know I had and not dumoing tons of cash in to it/building step by step budget wise but thought out. Also, I like to work on my own stuff and learn about how they work so this is definately a learning on the go kinda thing. I've already realized they are fairly straight forward to work on though. Not a real fan of the mox of metric and standard sockets/wrenches for each task but it is what it is I guess. Also really dont want to get in to a big lift becuase Indont really need it and dont want to start loosing sleep over pinion angles etc. The Mopar 2"coils seem about right for everything considered from what I'm seeing so far.

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