Mopar Aux Switch Install Testing

[Kcp100365]

Help…please.

I wanted to see if anyone can offer some assistance. I purchased the Mopar Aux switch bank to add to my JL.

Install went fine until trying to extract the orange wire. As I’ve seen from many threads, this wire broke trying to extract it from the connector. So, as a few people have stated, they just spliced the wires from there - rather than finding molex connectors and crimping. So, I‘m hopeful someone can help at this stage. I completed the install. I made the following changes to using JSCAN:

Aux Switch Bank Module Present on/off - Active
Aux Switches in CSM on/off - Switch 4 option
Aux Switches on/off - Four
Radio Aux Swtiches on/off - Switch option 4

I have no power at the switches - will not light up. When I check the voltage at the Red and Black pins on the connector at the Aux switches - It reads 0v when disconnected from the aux switch bank and i assume it should be reading 12v. I have checked the 5 amp inline fuse - all good. Does anyone know what the voltage should be at the orange splice to ground in the footwell? Should it 12v?

I have tried using JSCAN multiple times to flash the changes and they appear to stay. The Aux switch option does show up on the radio. I have no errors on the dash at all.

Any thoughts? Any other fuses i can check? For those that have had issues with the connectors for the orange wire in teh footwell, they seemed to have gotten an ESS error code on the dash at star–up. I have also double-checked the wiring going into the connector at the aux switches to be sure I put them in the correct numbers and also have checked they are firmly seated - which they are.

Thanks in advance.

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[Vtur]

Help…please.

I wanted to see if anyone can offer some assistance. I purchased the Mopar Aux switch bank to add to my JL.

Install went fine until trying to extract the orange wire. As I’ve seen from many threads, this wire broke trying to extract it from the connector. So, as a few people have stated, they just spliced the wires from there - rather than finding molex connectors and crimping. So, I‘m hopeful someone can help at this stage. I completed the install. I made the following changes to using JSCAN:

Aux Switch Bank Module Present on/off - Active
Aux Switches in CSM on/off - Switch 4 option
Aux Switches on/off - Four
Radio Aux Swtiches on/off - Switch option 4

I have no power at the switches - will not light up. When I check the voltage at the Red and Black pins on the connector at the Aux switches - It reads 0v when disconnected from the aux switch bank and i assume it should be reading 12v. I have checked the 5 amp inline fuse - all good. Does anyone know what the voltage should be at the orange splice to ground in the footwell? Should it 12v?

I have tried using JSCAN multiple times to flash the changes and they appear to stay. The Aux switch option does show up on the radio. I have no errors on the dash at all.

Any thoughts? Any other fuses i can check? For those that have had issues with the connectors for the orange wire in teh footwell, they seemed to have gotten an ESS error code on the dash at star–up. I have also double-checked the wiring going into the connector at the aux switches to be sure I put them in the correct numbers and also have checked they are firmly seated - which they are.

Thanks in advance.

You must connect the orange wire for it to activate the switch, as that's the canbus wire.

 

[Hootbro]

When I check the voltage at the Red and Black pins on the connector at the Aux switches - It reads 0v when disconnected from the aux switch bank and i assume it should be reading 12v. I have checked the 5 amp inline fuse - all good.

I would expect the Red wire be a constant hot 12 vdc if you connected everything in the engine bay correctly.

Is there 12 vdc across the 5 amp fuse? Have you done a continuity check of the black wire to ground?

 

[Kcp100365]

Yes, i have the orange wire connected. The orange wire on the side of the connector nearest the engine goes to one side of the orange wire in the new harness. The orange wire on the existing connector nearest the seat goes goes to the new harness as well through the black connector with the blank on each side.

 

[Kcp100365]

I would expect the Red wire be a constant hot 12 vdc if you connected everything in the engine bay correctly.

Is there 12 vdc across the 5 amp fuse? Have you done a continuity check of the black wire to ground?

Correct - just took those readings. 13vdc across the 5 amp fuse. From the black wire on the radio connector to ground shows 0 ohms.

Side note, I checked all individual fuses for each aux switch - all in tact and not blown.

Great suggestions, so thank you.

@ a loss still and still have the same issue. Is it possible JSCAN isn’t flashing correctly?

 

[Vtur]

It's either something wrong with the orange wire termination or at the switch connector.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

just took those readings. 13vdc across the 5 amp fuse.

You measured voltage across a fuse?
If a fuse is good, with one lead of the volt meter on the left and the other lead of the volt meter on the right, it should read 0 volts because there's no voltage drop across a good fuse. 0 ohms, so no voltage.
Maybe you mean you had one lead of the meter grounded and the other lead on the fuse and it read 13 volts when touched to either side of the fuse?

This may sound like being picky, but words mean something and when you measure across, you are measuring with both leads on the item, one on each end, as in measuring voltage drop across a component.

 

[Hootbro]

You measured voltage across a fuse?
If a fuse is good, with one lead of the volt meter on the left and the other lead of the volt meter on the right, it should read 0 volts because there's no voltage drop across a good fuse. 0 ohms, so no voltage.
Maybe you mean you had one lead of the meter grounded and the other lead on the fuse and it read 13 volts when touched to either side of the fuse?

This may sound like being picky, but words mean something and when you measure across, you are measuring with both leads on the item, one on each end, as in measuring voltage drop across a component.

He knew what I meant when I asked him to measure voltage at the fuse.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

He knew what I meant when I asked him to measure voltage at the fuse.

Apparently. Just that in my electric work when I was asked to measure across - well, you know the bit.

I'm like Patrick McKenna - and his example of 2 and 2 or 2 plus 2.

I use 'across' to get voltage drop across connections (including fuses) in troubleshooting electric systems.
(I've written tech documents for computer systems and man, you gotta be extremely specific)

 

[Hootbro]

Apparently. Just that in my electric work when I was asked to measure across - well, you know the bit.

I'm like Patrick McKenna - and his example of 2 and 2 or 2 plus 2.

I use 'across' to get voltage drop across connections (including fuses) in troubleshooting electric systems.
(I've written tech documents for computer systems and man, you gotta be extremely specific)

Different worlds then. No avionics tech I have worked with would have misconstrued or been confused if I asked them to measure voltage across a fuse or breaker other than to check both sides to ground. If I wanted a voltage drop check, then they would know .

Thanks for sharing your tech writing credentials.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

If you ask me to check the voltage across a component, that's exactly what I'm going to do. And it's a tool used to troubleshoot things that won't power on. You can't find a good ground close-by, no need. Turn on the item that won't power-up and measure the voltage across fuse, across any connection, or even across a wire to find a break.

Be clear, be precise.


I've worked in multinational companies and sometimes words don't translate well and you end up asking them a question that makes no sense when translated. Or you get the wrong results. It's really bad with Russian but even with other languages. My son and I have fun with his wife - Korean - and the idioms we use in general speaking. Luckily she's got a good sense of humor or doesn't get easily insulted.

 

[Hootbro]

If you ask me to check the voltage across a component, that's exactly what I'm going to do. And it's a tool used to troubleshoot things that won't power on. You can't find a good ground close-by, no need. Turn on the item that won't power-up and measure the voltage across fuse, across any connection, or even across a wire to find a break.

Be clear, be precise.


I've worked in multinational companies and sometimes words don't translate well and you end up asking them a question that makes no sense when translated. Or you get the wrong results. It's really bad with Russian but even with other languages. My son and I have fun with his wife - Korean - and the idioms we use in general speaking. Luckily she's got a good sense of humor or doesn't get easily insulted.

Seriously?

What do want, a cookie for being right?

You just take shit to the next level sometimes for somethings 99% of people here do not care about.

You need to quit being a grammar NAZI on what is basically a informal vehicle forum and constantly looking to pick the fly shit out the pepper details to flex I am sure is your MENSA level I.Q. so you can repeatedly show pictures of your workshop repair library bookshelf of all the things you have read and retained with Rain Man levels of recall. (That was probably a run on sentence but I do not care)

This place is not a Ted Talk or a engineering symposium. Lay off trying to point out every syntax error and learn to read a room.

I am sure I am coming off like an ass and will own that but man, you really know how to push things of inconsequence and I know I am not the first to have gone off on you for similar things.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Seriously?

What do want, a cookie for being right?

You just take shit to the next level sometimes for somethings 99% of people here do not care about.

You need to quit being a grammar NAZI on what is basically a informal vehicle forum and constantly looking to pick the fly shit out the pepper details to flex I am sure is your MENSA level I.Q. so you can repeatedly show pictures of your workshop repair library bookshelf of all the things you have read and retained with Rain Man levels of recall. (That was probably a run on sentence but I do not care)

This place is not a Ted Talk or a engineering symposium. Lay off trying to point out every syntax error and learn to read a room.

I am sure I am coming off like an ass and will own that but man, you really know how to push things of inconsequence and I know I am not the first to have gone off on you for similar things.

Get along with people with disabilities much? (semi-joking)
I don't want to fight or argue with you - have a lot of respect for you, frankly..... but there seems to be an inability to deal with people who are different due to recognized ADA things.
So I'll totally drop it here as, like I say - I do respect you and don't want to ruin that.

 

[Hootbro]

Get along with people with disabilities much? (semi-joking)
I don't want to fight or argue with you - have a lot of respect for you, frankly..... but there seems to be an inability to deal with people who are different due to recognized ADA things.
So I'll totally drop it here as, like I say - I do respect you and don't want to ruin that.

Peace

 

[jmdwifi]

The orange wire is a demon. I put mine in over two years ago. I don’t remember the details but repinning that plug was stupid. I ended up jumping the orange wires together I think. Everything worked after that. I have a tazer, no dealer programming.

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