New Clayton 2.5" Kit!

[jmgb91]

Do you have a steel bumper and winch?

I have the stock steel bumper, no winch. Might go to LOD bumper and winch. Though that’ll only add weight to the front, not the back

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[Dougstdig]

I have the stock steel bumper, no winch. Might go to LOD bumper and winch. Though that’ll only add weight to the front, not the back

Based on Clayton's previous commentary, you'll net more from the front as it takes about 1/2" to 3/4" of the front rake out. Additionally, the front springs are with the anticipation of a steel front bumper and I think a winch also. This being said, I'm sure @Clayton Off Road will chime in soon...they're pretty quick.

Additionally, I think you'd be surprised how much of a bargain you can get take-off Highline fenders for on FB market place. A buddy of mine got a full set for his JL for under $400.

Going back to your original questions, I'm going to guess ...NO...you will not need drive shafts or drop brackets.

 

[Rusty PW]

Hello! Sorry to revive an old thread!

I am contemplating the 2.5" lift kit for my Max Tow. I saw that 2.5" doesn't need LCA drop brackets or even a new driveshaft, however, 4" lift would probably require them. Since the Clayton 2.5" is closer to 4" on a Sport, would you say I will need to get a new driveshaft? And break lines and all the stuff associated with a regular 4" lift

With the 2.5" lift. No new drive shaft, or brake lines are needed. Geo brackets would be an option for a better street ride. Would need longer lower front control arms without the geo brackets. Track bars would be a must.

I have the 2.5" diesel front springs with the JKS adjustable spring seat for just over 4" of lift in the front, plus the 3.5" rear springs for about 3.5" of lift. Using the Rock Jock drive shaft spacer on the rear. My drive shafts are find. I'm also using Teraflex front geo brackets and rear track bar relocation bracket. My limiting factor is my shocks. When I put together my lift. I was only planning for a 2.5". Didn't count on the JKS spring seats giving me another 2" of lift in the front. The shocks are for 2" to 3" of lift.

I have a set of new Clayton rear springs for sale soon. I installed them, then took them back out after I found the rear sitting too low with what I installed in the front. You want them?

 

[Clayton Off Road]

Hello! Sorry to revive an old thread!

I am contemplating the 2.5" lift kit for my Max Tow. I saw that 2.5" doesn't need LCA drop brackets or even a new driveshaft, however, 4" lift would probably require them. Since the Clayton 2.5" is closer to 4" on a Sport, would you say I will need to get a new driveshaft? And break lines and all the stuff associated with a regular 4" lift

Hey there! The 2.5" kit is really about a 3" lift which is measured from the rear, and around 4" up front since we do remove 1" of factory rake. A new driveshaft is not required, but is recommended if you plan on wheeling the Jeep often! The 3.5" lifts come with brake lines/extensions, no need on the 2.5" system, but you can always add them in if you want to

 

[jmgb91]

Hey there! The 2.5" kit is really about a 3" lift which is measured from the rear, and around 4" up front since we do remove 1" of factory rake. A new driveshaft is not required, but is recommended if you plan on wheeling the Jeep often! The 3.5" lifts come with brake lines/extensions, no need on the 2.5" system, but you can always add them in if you want to

Thanks for the answer!
If I go with the 2.5” lift, should I go with the 3.5”+ lift front shocks then?

also, if I use the front spring from y’all’s leveling kit (1.5” advertised), will it maintain factory rake?

 

[Clayton Off Road]

Thanks for the answer!
If I go with the 2.5” lift, should I go with the 3.5”+ lift front shocks then?

also, if I use the front spring from y’all’s leveling kit (1.5” advertised), will it maintain factory rake?

No need! Shock manufacturers take into consideration that most lifts remove a bit of rake, all of the 2-3" shocks work great with our 2.5" kit

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