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OEM Drag link removal (HELP!!)

NewGladdyOWNR

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So five hours later, I still cannot remove the drag link from the drivers side. I used a wrench and a mallet at first, then went for the ball joint separator tool (the tool failed when using an impact wrench). So I’m now at a loss. I read on the JL forums of someone with a similar experience and he used a crowbar and a jack to gain leverage. I may go this route but I’m afraid I may damage the steering arm that leads to the steering pump.
Maybe I’m using the ball joint separator tool incorrectly, but it seems pretty straight forward. Does anyone have any advice?
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kevman65

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I used a pickle fork to remove mine and yes it was a PITA.

All I can say is keep at it.
 

fourfa

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Mine was absolutely friction welded in place and nothing whatsoever worked. Pickle fork, gear puller, hammer, two hammers, sledgehammer, heat gun, blowtorch, NOTHING. I ended up mangling the drag link threads, such that there was no choice but to remove the whole pitman arm with the big gun - Lisle 41970 Heavy Duty Pitman Arm Puller.

Cranked on that fucker for a long time, torque building, when finally KABLAM it let go from the sector shaft with quite a bit of violence and smashed my finger. Instantly went completely numb and I still don’t have full feeling back three months later. Took the pitman arm, joint, and drag link to the shop and had to beat on the end of the ball joint with a heavy sledge in a vise for ten minutes before it FINALLY popped out. Pitman arm was fine. Tie rod joint was scrap metal.

Wear heavy gloves and PPE if you go with the pitman arm removal. And check your pitman arm torque frequently after install. Proper torque, red loctite or no, those things seem to like to move. Must be why the factory practically welded it in place.
 
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rtjeepman

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I used a hydraulic ball joint separater tool that I bought from Amazon. I don't have a link at this point in time. It cost about $80 and was a lifesaver. I was waiting for the tool to explode before the joint finally popped apart.
 

Bbannongmu

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Heat, bfh, pickle fork, PB blaster and profanity. Hit it on the side with the bfh when heating and spray down. Then try the pickle fork. My JT was actually the easiest one I’ve ever done but we’ve had relatively mild winters the last few years in PA so less corrosion. My JK was a nightmare. Good luck!!!
 

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Whiteoak323

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Thanks for all the replies.

I took it to a shop down the street and they hit it with two pneumatic pickle forks simultaneously and that did the trick. Best $40 dollars I’ve ever spent!

IMG_0991.jpeg


Jeep Gladiator OEM Drag link removal (HELP!!) 1726259822452-q
Hey. Just a double check. But one of your Jam nuts on the drag link does not look like its button up against the rod. Just a friendly double check.
 
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NewGladdyOWNR

NewGladdyOWNR

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Hey. Just a double check. But one of your Jam nuts on the drag link does not look like its button up against the rod. Just a friendly double check.
yea those pics were taken before the alignment. Thanks for looking out!
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