Overland - I’m sure it’s been asked before (apologies in advance)

[olecarguy]

DS10S86, Your goals seem very similar to mine, looking for a more mature ride without sacrificing reasonable off-road capabilities. The kid in me pushed for the Rubicon due to it's cool factor, the mature adult wanted to replace my older Lincoln SUV. After reviewing the Overland vs Rubicon vs Mojave, I realized that with only minor mod I could satisfy my inner youth and my more mature desires.

I went with an Overland, had to have the LSD, proximity locks, heated seats/wheel, AUX Switches (could find one with these).

Then immediately upon getting it home did the following;
1) upgraded to 285/65-18 SL not C, D or E, load range, Toyo Open County ATIII - kept the same diameter to maintain MPG and avoid speedo recal, while keeping the Overland 18" wheels that I like, and avoiding stiffer side walls of C, D or E to maintain smoother road ride.

2) 2" MOPAR lift kit - gift from the wife for XMAS. She used the new Jeep owner coupon and got it for $1200. Used the entire kit except rear springs, didn't like the look in the rear with the 285's. Reinstalled stock springs with 3/4 Daystar spacer. The FOX shocks offer a bit stiffer ride, but make a HUGE handling difference over the softer, stock ride shock. However, now it feels more like a Jeep as I remember them on the road and not a cushy SUV. I LIKE IT. If there is anything I'd change in the set up, I'd like to find a set of rear springs which give me 1" lift over stock in the rear without the spacers. The spacer only provided +1/2" with stock springs.

3) DV8 Steel Modular front bumper, keeping stock tow hooks - most resembles the factory look while still giving me the ability to remove the wings, and includes a hefty which mount and guard.

Other less important to the handling/performance mods done to help the inner youth while supporting my use needs as an adult

include:

1) MOPAR Tonneau,
2) AUX Switches
3) Bed Extender
4) Mopar Rear Mud Guards
5) Mopar Front and Rear Grab Handles
6) 1941 Hood Decal and US Flag Decals
7) Tinted Front Windows

Left to do on the list:
1) 9.5K Winch
2) 10-12 Front light Bar mounted to winch guard
3) Xvision rear bumper lights

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[kooltoys]

a high altidude is an overland with wide track axles and 373 gears, leather standard, led standard, adaptive cruise, etc.. level kit or small lift on 35"s, call it good

 

[BCC]

I have a well equipped, stock Overland. I’m retired, and use it mainly to drive to shooting competitions, mtb trails, road cycling start lines and driving down to Key Largo to go scuba. And of course, to the grocery store.

I’m driving on either paved, highway or dirt/sand roads and the occasional field.

The stock configuration is perfect for my use. I much prefer the Gladiator over my previous f150 Platinums , costing around $15k more.

I thought about a small lift and bigger, more aggressive tires for a more rugged look, but decided the performance cons outweighed the appearance benefits, given my intended use, here in Florida.

I was tempted by the Mojave, though....

Glad I got the Overland

 

[HjStrater]

NICE! And very well said.
What spacers did you use?
Those tires look big on the 18" overland wheels. (meaning they look just as good on the 18s as the Rubicon Falken A/T tires do on the Rubicon 17" wheels)
Good choice.

Spacers aren't in yet in this photo but I have the .75" daystar kit sitting waiting for a warm day or a buddy with a heated garage to help me throw them in.

Tires are 34.2x11.5 (295/70r18) and rqlly make the 18" overland rims look good.

 

[jurfie]

I have a well equipped, stock Overland. I’m retired, and use it mainly to drive to shooting competitions, mtb trails, road cycling start lines and driving down to Key Largo to go scuba.

I hope my eventual retirement is filled with as much fun stuff as yours!

 

[olecarguy]

Kool Toys - In concept I agree. Looked at this when doing mine.

Problem is the 18" x 35s, as far as I know, come 35 x 12.5 x 18, requiring wider wheels, and are usually higher (C, D or E) load rating. In doing a quick search the only available 18" tire which comes close to 35" and fits on the stock wheel is a LT285/75R18 (34.80) and these are always load range E....ouch, So, now with a wider wheel to the 35 x 12.5 one ends up with tires protruding outside the fender wells +1" and a more aggressive ride. While the outside the fender well look is cool, it's getting more and more problematic with the Po Po in many areas. There are several threads on this and other forums about Po Po hassles and tickets, and I too have a personal bad experience with this. This is not a older man's long distance, off-road every so often ride once you do this. So, practically, going to 35s will require purchase of 17' wheels where more tire options exist, like a 285/70/17. I believe this is why Jeep puts 17s on Mojavi and Rubicon. The tire options are far greater where they are more closely aligned to the Jeep weight and suspension.

 

[kooltoys]

Kool Toys - In concept I agree. Looked at this when doing mine.

Problem is the 18" x 35s, as far as I know, come 35 x 12.5 x 18, requiring wider wheels, and are usually higher (C, D or E) load rating. In doing a quick search the only available 18" tire which comes close to 35" and fits on the stock wheel is a LT285/75R18 (34.80) and these are always load range E....ouch, So, now with a wider wheel to the 35 x 12.5 one ends up with tires protruding outside the fender wells +1" and a more aggressive ride. While the outside the fender well look is cool, it's getting more and more problematic with the Po Po in many areas. There are several threads on this and other forums about Po Po hassles and tickets, and I too have a personal bad experience with this. This is not a older man's long distance, off-road every so often ride once you do this. So, practically, going to 35s will require purchase of 17' wheels where more tire options exist, like a 285/70/17. I believe this is why Jeep puts 17s on Mojavi and Rubicon. The tire options are far greater where they are more closely aligned to the Jeep weight and suspension.

i put 35x12.5x20 general grabber atx on the stock altitude 20x8" wheels, tire sticks out .5", maybe 3/4". that would be because of the wide axles. very happy with the trim package, I was going into for an overland that was in transit, got upsold and very happy I was! I actually just left the dealership for some paperwork issues.. They lie an say they lost $$$, thats never true

 

[olecarguy]

i put 35x12.5x20 general grabber atx on the stock altitude 20x8" wheels, tire sticks out .5", maybe 3/4". that would be because of the wide axles. very happy with the trim package, I was going into for an overland that was in transit, got upsold and very happy I was! I actually just left the dealership for some paperwork issues.. They lie an say they lost $$$, thats never true

Kool Toys, I owned a tire business for several years. I'm not saying that a 35 x 12.5 x 20 won't fit on a 8" wide wheel. I've seen all kinds of combination done. However, min recommended wheel width for that tire is 8.5", the ideal is 10" and max is 11". Putting them on an 8" wheel will cause the centers to crown improperly, potentially causing premature wear on the centers. So, if done with a min of 8.5 and more appropriately 10" wide wheel, they will extend much further out than the stated 1/2-3/4" more like 1-2", and regardless of that now one is into load range E tires. These are designed for heavy 1 ton vehicles, added significant rotating mass over the factory spec'd tires. Given the parameters articulate by DS10S86 at the start of this tread, when in business I wouldn't recommend such an option for fear that I would have an unhappy customer with the results both in terms of ride comfort and long term wear. I'm glad its working for you though.

 

[D10S86]

I am happy with my overland. It is very well equipped and has worked well for my needs. The original tire setup is anemic and most will upgrade it along with some leveling/lift kit.

Looks real good!

 

[D10S86]

DS10S86, Your goals seem very similar to mine, looking for a more mature ride without sacrificing reasonable off-road capabilities. The kid in me pushed for the Rubicon due to it's cool factor, the mature adult wanted to replace my older Lincoln SUV. After reviewing the Overland vs Rubicon vs Mojave, I realized that with only minor mod I could satisfy my inner youth and my more mature desires.

I went with an Overland, had to have the LSD, proximity locks, heated seats/wheel, AUX Switches (could find one with these).

Then immediately upon getting it home did the following;
1) upgraded to 285/65-18 SL not C, D or E, load range, Toyo Open County ATIII - kept the same diameter to maintain MPG and avoid speedo recal, while keeping the Overland 18" wheels that I like, and avoiding stiffer side walls of C, D or E to maintain smoother road ride.

2) 2" MOPAR lift kit - gift from the wife for XMAS. She used the new Jeep owner coupon and got it for $1200. Used the entire kit except rear springs, didn't like the look in the rear with the 285's. Reinstalled stock springs with 3/4 Daystar spacer. The FOX shocks offer a bit stiffer ride, but make a HUGE handling difference over the softer, stock ride shock. However, now it feels more like a Jeep as I remember them on the road and not a cushy SUV. I LIKE IT. If there is anything I'd change in the set up, I'd like to find a set of rear springs which give me 1" lift over stock in the rear without the spacers. The spacer only provided +1/2" with stock springs.

3) DV8 Steel Modular front bumper, keeping stock tow hooks - most resembles the factory look while still giving me the ability to remove the wings, and includes a hefty which mount and guard.

Other less important to the handling/performance mods done to help the inner youth while supporting my use needs as an adult

include:

1) MOPAR Tonneau,
2) AUX Switches
3) Bed Extender
4) Mopar Rear Mud Guards
5) Mopar Front and Rear Grab Handles
6) 1941 Hood Decal and US Flag Decals
7) Tinted Front Windows

Left to do on the list:
1) 9.5K Winch
2) 10-12 Front light Bar mounted to winch guard
3) Xvision rear bumper lights

I like your lists man, and your ride looks great. Those tires, are they 32.5 in the inch world of 35’s and 37’s?

 

[HjStrater]

Are you comfortable at high speeds on the freeway? Ever experience the death wobble I keep reading about?

I do have a new steering box on order at the dealership to clear up wandering and the oversized dead spot in the steering common with 2020's. I was still comfortable at highway speeds the truck just needed a lot more input than if should to keep tracking straight, so my experience was a bit more mild than others. I still regularly have the cruise set to 75mpg and can have a relaxing drive but I may just be more tolerant than others.

Actual death wobble is totally different and can be blamed on something that's worn out loose, or broken, and can be fixed. It's not a characteristic of the vehicle you need to live with.

 

[anavrinIV]

Kool Toys, I owned a tire business for several years. I'm not saying that a 35 x 12.5 x 20 won't fit on a 8" wide wheel. I've seen all kinds of combination done. However, min recommended wheel width for that tire is 8.5", the ideal is 10" and max is 11". Putting them on an 8" wheel will cause the centers to crown improperly, potentially causing premature wear on the centers. So, if done with a min of 8.5 and more appropriately 10" wide wheel, they will extend much further out than the stated 1/2-3/4" more like 1-2", and regardless of that now one is into load range E tires. These are designed for heavy 1 ton vehicles, added significant rotating mass over the factory spec'd tires. Given the parameters articulate by DS10S86 at the start of this tread, when in business I wouldn't recommend such an option for fear that I would have an unhappy customer with the results both in terms of ride comfort and long term wear. I'm glad its working for you though.

How much does wheel diameter vs tire diameter affect this issue? Thinking back to when I had my TJ it was very common to run 33x12.5 or 35x12.5 on 15x8 wheels. I ran 33s on mine with 15x8 soft 8s and never had an issue with tread bulge (wrangler duratracs). I also have a coworker running 35x12.5 wildpeak A/Ts on stock JK rubicon wheels without treat wear concoerns. I can see running a lower profile tire with a stiffer sidewall causing more of a problem but I do not have first hand experience with it. When looking at wheels for the JT most aftermarket 17s are 8.5"+ which covers that base.

Out of curiosity as well, how long ago did you own the tire business? I'm wondering if tire technology has progressed and if this is now more or less of a concern than it was in the past

 

[olecarguy]

I like your lists man, and your ride looks great. Those tires, are they 32.5 in the inch world of 35’s and 37’s?

Thanks! The tires are 285/65/18, SL116 Toyo Open Country ATIII and match stock diameter of 32.2". By doing this I got a:
1) 1" wider tire which fits properly on the factory 18x 8" wide wheels, remains within the fender well, 2) is only 9lbs heavier than the stock 255/70/18 AS, - reducing rotating mass and unsprung weight of a 35" load range D or E,
3) avoids load range D or E as a load range SL116, (stock tires are 113)
4) keeps nearly the tire pressure near factory. I run 35PSI vs 39PSI.
5) eliminates any need to reprogram the computer for pressure or speedo,
6)maintains a nice ride,
7)significantly improved off-road grip,
8) gave me true snow rated tires
9) provided a 65K wear warranty,
10) kept my MPG where is was at 18.4 locally (haven't checked it on the highway since my driving has been a combo),
11) enables balancing with only a limited amount of weights being added due to lower rotating mass. Having formally owned a tire business I am highly sensitive to tire vibration.
12) Provide excellent highway handling. At 75-80mph it rides great.

I will add that once I added the FOX SHOCKS from the MOPAR kit the vehicle did stiffen up a little, and I do notice local road imperfections a bit more, but it seems much more responsive and less affected by cross winds on the highway (this was apparent with both stock and upgraded tires). I think They look really good in oblique angle pics where you can see the width

Frankly, if I were still in the tire business and had a mature customer who wanted to maintain a near factory ride and vehicle parameters, improved look, improved off-road performance and snow performance, quieter road ride, remain within fender lines, and didn't want the cost of going to 17" wheels to open up tire option, this is the option I would recommend. The only other alternative I would offer is keeping the size and thinking about Falken or Coopers.

BTW, there is no "death wobble", and there shouldn't be. If that happens something is worn.

 

[DreamedofaJeepSomeday]

I have a well equipped, stock Overland. I’m retired, and use it mainly to drive to shooting competitions, mtb trails, road cycling start lines and driving down to Key Largo to go scuba. And of course, to the grocery store.

I’m driving on either paved, highway or dirt/sand roads and the occasional field.

The stock configuration is perfect for my use. I much prefer the Gladiator over my previous f150 Platinums , costing around $15k more.

I thought about a small lift and bigger, more aggressive tires for a more rugged look, but decided the performance cons outweighed the appearance benefits, given my intended use, here in Florida.

I was tempted by the Mojave, though....

Glad I got the Overland

You sound just like me, except at 72, I still cannot retire for a few years.

Regarding tires, I like the aggressive look, but not willing to put up with road noise to get it. Definitely do not want the high weight of the popular knobby tires that many on this forum seem to choose. Not willing to give up fuel economy for the heavier tires.

So the stock all season are fine for me now, while the JT is a daily driver. When they wear out, I plan to get something like the Continental Terrain Contact. Slightly aggressive, but relatively quiet and definitely not heavy.

Yes, I really like my Overland.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Thanks! The tires are 285/65/18, SL116 Toyo Open Country ATIII and match stock diameter of 32.2". By doing this I got a:
1) 1" wider tire which fits properly on the factory 18x 8" wide wheels, remains within the fender well, 2) is only 9lbs heavier than the stock 255/70/18 AS, - reducing rotating mass and unsprung weight of a 35" load range D or E,
3) avoids load range D or E as a load range SL116, (stock tires are 113)
4) keeps nearly the tire pressure near factory. I run 35PSI vs 39PSI.
5) eliminates any need to reprogram the computer for pressure or speedo,
6)maintains a nice ride,
7)significantly improved off-road grip,
8) gave me true snow rated tires
9) provided a 65K wear warranty,
10) kept my MPG where is was at 18.4 locally (haven't checked it on the highway since my driving has been a combo),
11) enables balancing with only a limited amount of weights being added due to lower rotating mass. Having formally owned a tire business I am highly sensitive to tire vibration.
12) Provide excellent highway handling. At 75-80mph it rides great.

I will add that once I added the FOX SHOCKS from the MOPAR kit the vehicle did stiffen up a little, and I do notice local road imperfections a bit more, but it seems much more responsive and less affected by cross winds on the highway (this was apparent with both stock and upgraded tires). I think They look really good in oblique angle pics where you can see the width

Frankly, if I were still in the tire business and had a mature customer who wanted to maintain a near factory ride and vehicle parameters, improved look, improved off-road performance and snow performance, quieter road ride, remain within fender lines, and didn't want the cost of going to 17" wheels to open up tire option, this is the option I would recommend. The only other alternative I would offer is keeping the size and thinking about Falken or Coopers.

BTW, there is no "death wobble", and there shouldn't be. If that happens something is worn.

I knew I liked you. Someone who actually mentions unsprung weight, rotating mass. A lot of logic in that post.
I sold tires - uh, this will age me - in the mid 70s to early 80s LOL. Things have changed! No more E70 14s.

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