bd100
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- May 31, 2022
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- 28
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- Location
- USA Midwest
- Vehicle(s)
- JT, WK2, ole' Ram
Aluminum is also available. Kind of a compromise.
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I prefer less flex - most of the times I've been dinged or even had a boo-boo of my own (like moving an outhouse with my Comanche), it would have been better to have a minor ding or dent I could simply repaint or touch up, instead of replacing.In my eyes, it's sometimes better to have a bumper that's going to flex and absorb damage in minor impacts. If you have a stout steel bumper that's mounted to your frame, if the hit is severe enough it can also cause the impact damage to the frame which can end up being more costly and harder to fix. Besides, if they hit you, it's their insurance replacing whatever bumper you have (or your uninsured driver insurance kicks in), so I wouldn't be concerned about minor impacts.
If you end up damaging the OEM plastic one and need a replacement, keep an eye on local marketplaces (Facebook especially), people sell them all the time for cheap or free.
I've considered one because of the massive weight I've added to my truck in the accessories.Aluminum is also available. Kind of a compromise.
And, of course, doesn’t rust.Aluminum is also available. Kind of a compromise.
I had my bumper stripped and powder coated by a pro shop. Still looks like new, the black is black.And, of course, doesn’t rust.
My last aftermarket steel bumpers had crappy powder coat and both rusted.
I thought about that but it's too soft in the event of an accident.Aluminum is also available. Kind of a compromise.
Is that the stock steel bumper? I had heard they were rather on the light duty side. That is why I was questioning the rear rubicon stock steel bumper.I prefer less flex - most of the times I've been dinged or even had a boo-boo of my own (like moving an outhouse with my Comanche), it would have been better to have a minor ding or dent I could simply repaint or touch up, instead of replacing.
I could kick and ruin the plastic bumper. There's nothing to it. Then you have a hassle.
With the steel bumper, it's going to take it, maybe nick or scrape the finish, repaint and move on. I can stand on it, set stuff on it, jump on it, no problem. I'd crush a plastic bumper if I stood on it.
What is this - 20 or 22 gauge? It's going to bend in almost any situation - including someone kicking it or just bumping it while backing out of a parking spot.
I'd bet that anyone here could kick the end of one of these or even just lean on it hard and crumple it.
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I want my bumper to damage them -
The steel will still give before frame damage - there's a lot of structure up front.
In my case, I have a 2" receiver bolted between frame rails - if the frame gets damaged, it's a hell of an impact.
No, not really.I thought about that but it's too soft in the event of an accident.
Like the fog lights, did you have to connect those to an Aux or connected to OEM fog light wiring?Plastic -
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Steel -
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The fog lights on my JT - DiodeDynamics - connect directly to the stock fog light wiring.Like the fog lights, did you have to connect those to an Aux or connected to OEM fog light wiring?
He asked about rear bumper...........I went with aluminum, it is pretty stout and saves weight. MP Concepts, decent price and comes with the winch plate. Looks like a stock bumper
If I upgrade to the Mopar Steel rear bumper is that better protection should someone rear end me?
I think the steel bumper is an upgrade strength wise, plus you should get the steel rear rock rails that bolt to the frame and the bumper, they are the perhaps 1.5” tubes you see low on the rear of a Rubicon….JackIf I upgrade to the Mopar Steel rear bumper is that better protection should someone rear end me?