Power Outlet Newbie Question

[DawgBox]

IN this thread TennesseePA has been testing his Dometic 95DX (even larger) and with temperatures in his garage in the mid-80s has been pulling 13 ah off battery every 24 hours (after initial cooldown - which normally people would do under AC power).

So the Goal Zero 500X has 46.8 AH so in theory you should be able to get 86 hours (well over 3 days).

The 500X charges from AC in 8.5 hours (so it would then need 8.5 hours of charge time off your bed outlet over every 3 1/2 day period to maintain a continual power supply).

My Boulder 50 Solar panel would even keep going if I was in an area with no power. The Boulder 50 will charge it with 12 hours direct sunlight (so that means 12 hours total direct sunlight needed during 3 days of daylight).

All right...real world evidence! Thanks so much!

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[cbl1]

I forgot the link https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/dometic-or-arb-fridge.17893/page-13

 

[cbl1]

I'm curious how long my CFF35 with run on my year and a half old Yeti 400 actually.

Pre-chilling now and then I will hook to the Yeti.

And for those looking for cooler that fits perfect in the gladiator bed with a top .... highly recommend the CFF35. Same as the CFX35 without bells and whistles like wifi and color display. But I actually like the top on the CFF better as it opens from either side (perfect for pulling open bedside)..... and regularly on sale on Dometic site for less than $600 vs. over $800 for the CFX version.

 

[cbl1]

Took less then 30 minutes to cool down below 30 degrees set for.

Hooked to Yeti at 10:30am Eastern via DC.

I'm going to open the lid during the day every hour or so to simulate real use (which should be more than normal as there is no food in it to keep it more to temperature).

 

[cbl1]

Not so good a results - after just over 30 hours (randomly opening closing - nothing inside to keep chilled. My Goal Zero Yeti 400 was at about 30% and it stopped being able to power from the DC port - somehow voltage must have dropped or something at that point and not letting the cooler run properly. I could have probably gone to AC power and kept it running rest of day.

So my older Yeti 400 not real reliable when gets down to 30% and under in maintaining proper power. Good enough for now but I see me going to a 500x probably by next year.

Probably someone with a new Yeti 400 right out of box is probably looking at 48 hours (2 full days) being the max on it.

 

[gonzoy5]

Not so good a results - after just over 30 hours (randomly opening closing - nothing inside to keep chilled. My Goal Zero Yeti 400 was at about 30% and it stopped being able to power from the DC port - somehow voltage must have dropped or something at that point and not letting the cooler run properly. I could have probably gone to AC power and kept it running rest of day.

So my older Yeti 400 not real reliable when gets down to 30% and under in maintaining proper power. Good enough for now but I see me going to a 500x probably by next year.

Probably someone with a new Yeti 400 right out of box is probably looking at 48 hours (2 full days) being the max on it.

Couple of things as I think I've been down a similar path. Sorry if I'm stating something you already know. If your battery is just shot, You should be able to replace the battery pretty easily with generic brand with matching capacity.. Also you can daisy chain a 2nd battery using the Anderson ports. You get a matching battery and you can double your AH/Run Time. Yes Lithium would give you same capacity, but battery/box/wiring is about $80 so I went that way :D

I'd ignore the Percentage display and look at the voltage. The refrigerators' battery safety settings rely on battery voltage, so they will cut off at a certain voltage depending on your setting. You'll need to confirm that Voltage info for your fridge. Some settings will let it drop down in the 10.(x)v range, but it all depends on your fridge.

As for ideas to extent the battery life, the AC adapter charges at 70w, but the 12v DC charger can actually put out 120w, so either way if you squeeze in a 1 hour or so drive while camping, You'll get a solid bump of juice that will help you make it through a camping weekend. Finally you can always go with a Solar Panel. 50w in a clear exposed area can at least keep you even with the draw from the fridge throughout the day, even with passing clouds. For a usage comparison, Unless it's complete washout weekend, I'm able to run my 40l Alpicool fridge, charge 2 phones nightly, and run two Goal Zero 5w Lights about 3-4hrs per night, for 3 nights with just the panel. If I throw a random adventure drive in once, I'm usually good. Just got it so haven't been camping in the Gladiator yet, but here's a shot of the lights and fridge in my Outback for reference.

Hope this info helps!

 

[cbl1]

Thanks @ gonzoy5. One thing on my testing was the cooler was empty - I get much better results when food in there to maintain the cold. I think even if battery somewhat not at its factory level I should get a full weekend. I even have a a boulder 50 solar panel.

I really would like to get a 500x simply for the weight savings - but the 400 is working good enough for me its hard to justify getting the latest and greatest. Maybe by next summer

 

[gonzoy5]

Thanks @ gonzoy5. One thing on my testing was the cooler was empty - I get much better results when food in there to maintain the cold. I think even if battery somewhat not at its factory level I should get a full weekend. I even have a a boulder 50 solar panel.

I really would like to get a 500x simply for the weight savings - but the 400 is working good enough for me its hard to justify getting the latest and greatest. Maybe by next summer

Yeah with Boulder 50 you'll be set. Good luck!

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