Power running boards

[hpva]

Just test drove a 2023 Gladiator Overland. The problem was my wife who has had both knees replaced 5 years ago cannot pick up her leg to get in with the factory running boards.Has anyone installed the AMP Research power running boards on their stock height Gladiator?If so does it make getting in and out of the Jeep easier and how many inches do the steps lower.Thanks in advance for any information you can give me.

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[WILDHOBO]

Just test drove a 2023 Gladiator Overland. The problem was my wife who has had both knees replaced 5 years ago cannot pick up her leg to get in with the factory running boards.Has anyone installed the AMP Research power running boards on their stock height Gladiator?If so does it make getting in and out of the Jeep easier and how many inches do the steps lower.Thanks in advance for any information you can give me.

I can’t speak to amp research, but I installed my rock slide engineering gen3 steps when mine was stock height. It made a huge difference for my wife and kids.

 

[robburns76]

Since i live in the snowy weather and do plan on wheeling (through the rocks) once in a while (why i chose them over AMP), so i went with the Rock Slide Engineering steps. they do make it much easier to get in and the step pulls up out of the way when the door is closed. I've been pretty happy with them.

 

[WILDHOBO]

And now that mine is lifted on 37’s, my small children can still get into their car seats unassisted.

 

[robburns76]

my 5'2" wife and elderly mom are happy i have them too.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I can’t speak to amp research, but I installed my rock slide engineering gen3 steps when mine was stock height. It made a huge difference for my wife and kids.

Following this thread as we both have arthritis, I have back issues, and my wife has bad shoulder and knee issues besides her handicap from birth making it difficult to climb up into things.
My Overland has 3/4" spacers in the rear (otherwise stock back there save for the air bags - which don't lift but simply prevent sags)
The front is sitting stock height with the Synergy 1" lift springs due to the weight I have up front, so I plan on swapping in the Synergy 2" lift springs to get the truck 1" above stock (for leveling in the summer and to handle the snow plow in the winter)
So in the end, my truck will be (HOPEFULLY) lifted 1".
She already complains about how difficult it is to get up into the truck. She drives a Grand Cherokee and you climb over the sill but down into it. Ironic - she doesn't drive small cars or cars that would sit low and yet she came from multiple Camaros - I guess she's changed her mind)

So anyway - keeping something like this in mind for when I win the lottery.

I question, however, the powering of these things, no matter the brand, as I do NOT want to "tap into" any wires. I only want to use correct factory type connectors - sealed, water tight. I absolutely hate anything that "taps" a wire mid-run, cutting into the insulation and in the process usually slicing some of the fine wire strands within. I've yet to see a tap that only touches the wires and doesn't somehow distort or cut into them while tapping. I refuse to "tap" mid-run.

So how do these things connect to power and sense doors opening and closing?
I know - you cut into factory wires and install those wire slicing taps, right? Ugh.
I spent an extra 2 hours pulling fender liners and making pigtails to avoid "tapping" light wires for my plow - that's how strongly I feel about it.

What wires do these need to access, and how?

 

[WILDHOBO]

Following this thread as we both have arthritis, I have back issues, and my wife has bad shoulder and knee issues besides her handicap from birth making it difficult to climb up into things.
My Overland has 3/4" spacers in the rear (otherwise stock back there save for the air bags - which don't lift but simply prevent sags)
The front is sitting stock height with the Synergy 1" lift springs due to the weight I have up front, so I plan on swapping in the Synergy 2" lift springs to get the truck 1" above stock (for leveling in the summer and to handle the snow plow in the winter)
So in the end, my truck will be (HOPEFULLY) lifted 1".
She already complains about how difficult it is to get up into the truck. She drives a Grand Cherokee and you climb over the sill but down into it. Ironic - she doesn't drive small cars or cars that would sit low and yet she came from multiple Camaros - I guess she's changed her mind)

So anyway - keeping something like this in mind for when I win the lottery.

I question, however, the powering of these things, no matter the brand, as I do NOT want to "tap into" any wires. I only want to use correct factory type connectors - sealed, water tight. I absolutely hate anything that "taps" a wire mid-run, cutting into the insulation and in the process usually slicing some of the fine wire strands within. I've yet to see a tap that only touches the wires and doesn't somehow distort or cut into them while tapping. I refuse to "tap" mid-run.

So how do these things connect to power and sense doors opening and closing?
I know - you cut into factory wires and install those wire slicing taps, right? Ugh.
I spent an extra 2 hours pulling fender liners and making pigtails to avoid "tapping" light wires for my plow - that's how strongly I feel about it.

What wires do these need to access, and how?

Hi Bill. You’ve got my number from a previous pm. Feel free to call me regarding power and wiring. But rest assured there are no taps or splices. I’m really particular and refuse to tap anything.

 

[Dirtyoffroad]

Main connection to battery,magnets and sensors for the doors.I installed these on mine due to double hip replacement.

 

[Gvsukids]

Just test drove a 2023 Gladiator Overland. The problem was my wife who has had both knees replaced 5 years ago cannot pick up her leg to get in with the factory running boards.Has anyone installed the AMP Research power running boards on their stock height Gladiator?If so does it make getting in and out of the Jeep easier and how many inches do the steps lower.Thanks in advance for any information you can give me.

Check out some of the threads..

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/retractable-running-boards.45833/





https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/power-steps-rse-vs-amp-xl-discussion.27961/

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Hi Bill. You’ve got my number from a previous pm. Feel free to call me regarding power and wiring. But rest assured there are no taps or splices. I’m really particular and refuse to tap anything.

Crap, I was gonna call - does tomorrow AM work? Doing medicare and SS stuff this week and got doing too many things at once.

Anyway, even the stuff I've done with the backup lights, plow wiring and other really fun stuff - no wires were harmed in the processes of making changes.
I about freaked and had a chat with the people that installed the trailer harness on my F250 when I bought a new camper years ago. They said "all wiring and setup included" and Ford provided the small harness/pigtail adapter for adding trailer wiring with the truck. Those clowns used those blue "scotch lock" connectors" right ahead of the back bumper where all the salt and water sprays.
I took it home and ripped out their crap, soldered and sealed the wires and use the correct factory harness.

Must be the AMP version because a couple of years ago on this very forum someone said they were installing the power steps and ran into other things not working afterwards. They had taped into a CANbus wire or something and it messed stuff up.

 

[WILDHOBO]

Crap, I was gonna call - does tomorrow AM work? Doing medicare and SS stuff this week and got doing too many things at once.

Anyway, even the stuff I've done with the backup lights, plow wiring and other really fun stuff - no wires were harmed in the processes of making changes.
I about freaked and had a chat with the people that installed the trailer harness on my F250 when I bought a new camper years ago. They said "all wiring and setup included" and Ford provided the small harness/pigtail adapter for adding trailer wiring with the truck. Those clowns used those blue "scotch lock" connectors" right ahead of the back bumper where all the salt and water sprays.
I took it home and ripped out their crap, soldered and sealed the wires and use the correct factory harness.

Must be the AMP version because a couple of years ago on this very forum someone said they were installing the power steps and ran into other things not working afterwards. They had taped into a CANbus wire or something and it messed stuff up.

Tomorrow is just fine.

 

[Old Young Man]

Crap, I was gonna call - does tomorrow AM work? Doing medicare and SS stuff this week and got doing too many things at once.

Anyway, even the stuff I've done with the backup lights, plow wiring and other really fun stuff - no wires were harmed in the processes of making changes.
I about freaked and had a chat with the people that installed the trailer harness on my F250 when I bought a new camper years ago. They said "all wiring and setup included" and Ford provided the small harness/pigtail adapter for adding trailer wiring with the truck. Those clowns used those blue "scotch lock" connectors" right ahead of the back bumper where all the salt and water sprays.
I took it home and ripped out their crap, soldered and sealed the wires and use the correct factory harness.

Must be the AMP version because a couple of years ago on this very forum someone said they were installing the power steps and ran into other things not working afterwards. They had taped into a CANbus wire or something and it messed stuff up.

When I was young and dumb I used those scotchlock taps. Then I wised up and if I could not get a tee that matched the factory harness plugs, I only tapped in by cutting the harness, soldering the three wires together and heavy sealing shrink wrap. On modern stuff very careful about getting into a factory harness..

 

[NGNERD]

I have had the AMP power steps since new in early 2020, they do make entry easy, I have a level kit from Clayton and 37s if that is relevant here, I would enjoy them with 33s or 35s would be my guess. They do get confused less than 5% of the time and will not open if another door opens at the same time. Due to the aux battery issue, if I had it to do over, I would reconsider a stationary option, like the style of the Rhino, but some bad reviews on quality here. When I reached out to AMP on questions regarding the AUX stand by drain, they would not respond, I only tried once, so I could have kept pushing I suppose. Good luck, still love this truck.

 

[tom.mary.glad]

Following this thread as we both have arthritis, I have back issues, and my wife has bad shoulder and knee issues besides her handicap from birth making it difficult to climb up into things.
My Overland has 3/4" spacers in the rear (otherwise stock back there save for the air bags - which don't lift but simply prevent sags)
The front is sitting stock height with the Synergy 1" lift springs due to the weight I have up front, so I plan on swapping in the Synergy 2" lift springs to get the truck 1" above stock (for leveling in the summer and to handle the snow plow in the winter)
So in the end, my truck will be (HOPEFULLY) lifted 1".
She already complains about how difficult it is to get up into the truck. She drives a Grand Cherokee and you climb over the sill but down into it. Ironic - she doesn't drive small cars or cars that would sit low and yet she came from multiple Camaros - I guess she's changed her mind)

So anyway - keeping something like this in mind for when I win the lottery.

I question, however, the powering of these things, no matter the brand, as I do NOT want to "tap into" any wires. I only want to use correct factory type connectors - sealed, water tight. I absolutely hate anything that "taps" a wire mid-run, cutting into the insulation and in the process usually slicing some of the fine wire strands within. I've yet to see a tap that only touches the wires and doesn't somehow distort or cut into them while tapping. I refuse to "tap" mid-run.

So how do these things connect to power and sense doors opening and closing?
I know - you cut into factory wires and install those wire slicing taps, right? Ugh.
I spent an extra 2 hours pulling fender liners and making pigtails to avoid "tapping" light wires for my plow - that's how strongly I feel about it.

What wires do these need to access, and how?

@ShadowsPapa I’d love to see pics of your Gladiator with the snow plow, especially action photos!

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Due to the aux battery issue, if I had it to do over, I would reconsider a stationary option, like the style of the Rhino, but some bad reviews on quality here. When I reached out to AMP on questions regarding the AUX stand by drain, they would not respond, I only tried once, so I could have kept pushing I suppose. Good luck, still love this truck.

Where are they wired in?
When sitting in your garage, they can't drain only the aux battery because the two are connected in parallel. So whatever drains one, drains both.
So if there's drain, it's draining the crank battery as well.


Just in general -
I'm not sure why these companies need "stand-by" power.
Switch them so they need NO power until a door is opened. This stand-by thing is not necessary, IMO.
A magnetic switch that closes when a door is open, or a simple relay that connects to existing systems and provides power to them ONLY when the door is opened is plenty. Sense from the truck's own systems, either power up as you approach, or a door is opened.

There are systems in the truck that come to life when you approach with a fob - power the steps then. Or use some other trigger, but power at all times?
If the one company uses a magnetic switch, there's no reason to have any battery drain when the truck is at rest. Close contacts in a relay which in turn powers the stems when the door is opened.

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