Pre-Runner Springs - lots of rear wheel travel

[Huhnowwhat]

6.5" up in the front, I like the sound of that. I currently have the 2" synergy springs which I'm finding way too soft a spring rate in the front. They are giving my Jounce shocks a workout. That said, I have roughly 3.5-4" up travel currently as I added 2" bumpstop extensions. Switching things around to get a stiffer rate and 6.5" up travel would make a hell of a difference.

I'm toying with the idea of removing the Mojave factory Jounce shocks and custom-installing some Fox ones. It would be nice to be able to remove them for rebuilding without having to take the coils out.

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[piroman683]

6.5" up in the front, I like the sound of that. I currently have the 2" synergy springs which I'm finding way too soft a spring rate in the front. They are giving my Jounce shocks a workout. That said, I have roughly 3.5-4" up travel currently as I added 2" bumpstop extensions. Switching things around to get a stiffer rate and 6.5" up travel would make a hell of a difference.

I'm toying with the idea of removing the Mojave factory Jounce shocks and custom-installing some Fox ones. It would be nice to be able to remove them for rebuilding without having to take the coils out.

the Synergy springs are waaaayyyy to soft in my opinion. When I received my truckit had the factory Mopar lift, then after I sheard off my rear bumpstop on a jump I added the Fox bumpstops and upgraded to the 2.5 DSC's. But in upgrading all of that I had to upgrade the springs.

I first went with Synergy for front and rear (3in), the rear was ok but the front kept stuffing the nose over everything. Super plush on the highway though. Then I went to Clayton's 2.5in spring and wow what a difference. Synergy front springs have an average rate of maybe 100 lbs/in (they say dual rate, but the lower rate goes nto coil stacking pretty quickly, the average rate is less than the 110/120 rating), the Mojave is more than 140 (guess since the Sport springs are around 135).

I was enjoying the Clayton ones for a while but always wondered if someone made a front sprnig just a little bit softer. I needed more than the Mojave/Mopar, but less than the 188 lbs from Clayton. I liked the overall height though, and knew I wanted to have enough free length to allow for up to 13in of front wheel travel. This is how I arrived at my current design which is 160 lbs with a free length of 21in. However, I might bump that to 21.25in for a little leveling, little more preload, and a little more jounce. So far from all my testing that does not seem to be necessary, but will find out soon

 

[piroman683]

Here's a photo of the measurement by the way

 

[Huhnowwhat]

Here's a photo of the measurement by the way

Thank you! I'll be doing this to the front end of mine soon.

 

[piroman683]

Update on the kickstarter, currently it is in review by the team prior to approval for launching it. I should hear something tomorrow (Jan 9th)

 

[thekbad]

Exciting!

 

[Bulldog4xfour]

Have you looked into artecs sway bar brackets, that work with rock jock components. It puts the sway bar underneath the frame so that would give you more down travel I would believe?

 

[piroman683]

Have you looked into artecs sway bar brackets, that work with rock jock components. It puts the sway bar underneath the frame so that would give you more down travel I would believe?

Those look awesome, thanks for that recommendation. I will have to order those to confirm what wheel travel is possible.

That option works for people who don't mind remounting their spare tire elsewhere (I prefer mine under so it's less stuff in the bed and helps lower cg). It will also work for people not interested in running 3.0 external bypass with recirculation cooler which is probably 95% of the people out there.

I know there's been other discussions on the largest spare you can fit under there, I'm running 37 KO2's (36.4) but also removed the heat shield since I also chopped the exhaust and it looks like it should fit up to 40's. I'll need to check clearance at full bump though.

 

[piroman683]

Kickstarter is caught up in review still. They were stating I need clear images of the springs (and not just images of them iinstalled in my truck) and more detail on what the springs do headbangTheir responses have been very cut and paste so I'm waiting on an actual follow up from ahuman on their side. This has been more challenging then figuring out the damn spring desing! I'm also exploring other financing options as Kickstarter takes a 5% cut which I didn't undersand at the beginning of this. I knew it wasn't free, but somehow I overlooked the 5% (on top of tax, shipping and all the other things). So...more to come in a few days. For those in southern California I'll be headed to Barstow sunday morning just before sunrise to do some professional filming of my truck and you are welcome to hang out for it and come for a ride, PM me for details.

 

[thekbad]

I’d love to head out there but I’m going to big bear with the fam this weekend. My front end was finished up today, the rear should be done by Friday. I’m really eager to get out and do a shakedown run, might go out there the weekend after.

 

[piroman683]

I’d love to head out there but I’m going to big bear with the fam this weekend. My front end was finished up today, the rear should be done by Friday. I’m really eager to get out and do a shakedown run, might go out there the weekend after.

nice, what work did you have done to the front and rear?

 

[thekbad]

Front:
- Artec 7075 lower control arms
- Rock Krawler upper control arms
- Rock Krawler track bar
- JKS 3.5" HD coils
- Fox Factory Race 2.0 bumps
- Fox Factory Race 3.0 IBP (FOX-883-26-082)

Rear
- Artec 7075 lower control arms
- Rock Krawler Pro-X upgrade
- JKS 3.5" HD coils
- Fox Factory Race 2.0 bumps
- Fox Factory Race 3.0 bypasses (FOX-883-09-141)
- Anti-rock sway (medium, will probably get the JK arms soon)


Speaking of, do you know off hand your eye-to-eye length for you clayton lower control arms in the back?

 

[piroman683]

Front:
- Artec 7075 lower control arms
- Rock Krawler upper control arms
- Rock Krawler track bar
- JKS 3.5" HD coils
- Fox Factory Race 2.0 bumps
- Fox Factory Race 3.0 IBP (FOX-883-26-082)

Rear
- Artec 7075 lower control arms
- Rock Krawler Pro-X upgrade
- Fox Factory Race 2.0 bumps
- Fox Factory Race 3.0 bypasses (FOX-883-09-141)
- Anti-rock sway (medium, will probably get the JK arms soon)


Speaking of, do you know off hand your eye-to-eye length for you clayton lower control arms in the back?

You added the 3.0 external bypasses in the back, hell yeah! When you upgrade the rear swaybar go with the 28 spline and the forged arms. I started with the 25 spline and steel arms and it was wayyyyy to soft. The steel arms also flex and smashed into the coolers. The forged ones have been significantly better.

I dont recall, but I'll measure them later. I do know that my pinion angle is close to factory, and to do that I had to shorten the lowers as much as possible. When you rotate the pinion up you actuatlly shift the spring pad back which is why ROck Krawler has those spring correction pads. However, those result reducing your uptravel as you stack the coils about 2in sooner. The pro-x upgrade is the way to go and I'm pretty surprised I dont see more people using it!

 

[thekbad]

Yikes. The Artec rear lower control arms are 24-1/4" full collapsed. We're going to start with that and see if we can get the pinion into a good place. The stock measurement is 23-3/4", the Claytons you have go from 23-7/16" to 25-1/8".

I have the 25 spline bars in the front/rear with forged arms. Any thoughts on the aluminum arms? I suppose they'd probably have more deflection and would work against the goal of stiffening?

 

[piroman683]

You running the stock rear driveshaft? If so you can keep it at +1 or 2 degrees up because even at full droop with a 32in long ext shock you're under 20 deg and the CV will be fine.

The springs I'm getting ready to launch don't require any spring pad, but you'll want to limit the pinion to 2 degrees.

The challenge with the rear sway bar for me at least, is the double shear setup on the kit would not fit with the shock cooler. It also limited my total travel to about 15in. The longer arms work great but because they are longer (21in vs 15in) any roll applied a much larger force to the bar and it made the truck very boaty. I am running the thinnest bar upfront too as I e sheared sway bar link bolts too many times.

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