Prevent interior power while camping?

[alpineovernappa]

I do a lot of extended camping, sometimes 10 days at a time without moving the jeep. After 5 to 7 days, the constant opening and closing of the doors to access gear in the vehicle drains the battery down. I usually don’t have external power so a trickle charger isn’t possible. Is there any way to prevent the jeep from turning on the infotainment system and gauge cluster when the doors open? I still need access to power locks so I can’t unplug the doors and make it think it is doorless. I sure wish jeep would offer a “camp mode” that turned off all non essential systems. Thanks!

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[JAVIERGONZO]

Why don't you just run your vehicle for 5 minutes? Get a mobile jump starter from like advanced auto parts or something?

 

[TroutFishingInAmerica]

I do a lot of extended camping, sometimes 10 days at a time without moving the jeep. After 5 to 7 days, the constant opening and closing of the doors to access gear in the vehicle drains the battery down. I usually don’t have external power so a trickle charger isn’t possible. Is there any way to prevent the jeep from turning on the infotainment system and gauge cluster when the doors open? I still need access to power locks so I can’t unplug the doors and make it think it is doorless. I sure wish jeep would offer a “camp mode” that turned off all non essential systems. Thanks!

This isn't what you were asking for but it might work for you.
Disconnect the aux battery ground and remove fuse F42. Your aux battery is now isolated. Drive to your camp spot and have fun, if you drain the main battery and can't get started then hook up the aux ground and replace fuse F42, the aux battery is now back in the loop. You should have enough juice to get started in most instances. I installed a cheap battery switch on the aux ground that I had floating around in the shop.

So I twist a nob and remove a fuse. I also carry a super capacitor jump box. The super capacitor jump starters are pretty cool, do some research, some are better than others. Hope some of this is helpful for you. Good luck.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

This isn't what you were asking for but it might work for you.
Disconnect the aux battery ground and remove fuse F42. Your aux battery is now isolated. Drive to your camp spot and have fun, if you drain the main battery and can't get started then hook up the aux ground and replace fuse F42, the aux battery is now back in the loop. You should have enough juice to get started in most instances. I installed a cheap battery switch on the aux ground that I had floating around in the shop.

So I twist a nob and remove a fuse. I also carry a super capacitor jump box. The super capacitor jump starters are pretty cool, do some research, some are better than others. Hope some of this is helpful for you. Good luck.

That won't kill it because the two batteries are in parallel when the engine is shut off by the driver.
Power from the crank battery + feeds through the high current fuse bus via fuse N2, then across the bus through N3 then through the PRC and to the system electronics.
PCR is apparently NC so pulling fuse 42 will only prevent the system from opening the PCR to check the state of the aux battery during a start.
But the PCR is closed any time the truck is just sitting there.
PCR opens during an ESS event, and opens momentarily during a driver initiated start - pulling the fuse prevents that relay from opening, it's always closed otherwise.
That's why things are still "hot" when you disconnect the crank battery - the PCR is closed, keeping things hot.

Why don't you just run your vehicle for 5 minutes? Get a mobile jump starter from like advanced auto parts or something?

5 minutes doesn't do it - and is harder on the engine. It takes more than 5 minutes to replenish what was used by the vehicle sitting for a day and then starting it. Monitoring the system voltages after a start after it's been sitting a day or two shows it takes a bit.
These drain just sitting even if you never open or close doors, so they are losing charge just sitting there. Then starting it pulls even more out.
5, even 10 minutes, would be doing more harm than good in the end.

 

[TroutFishingInAmerica]

That won't kill it because the two batteries are in parallel when the engine is shut off by the driver.
Power from the crank battery + feeds through the high current fuse bus via fuse N2, then across the bus through N3 then through the PRC and to the system electronics.
PCR is apparently NC so pulling fuse 42 will only prevent the system from opening the PCR to check the state of the aux battery during a start.
But the PCR is closed any time the truck is just sitting there.
PCR opens during an ESS event, and opens momentarily during a driver initiated start - pulling the fuse prevents that relay from opening, it's always closed otherwise.
That's why things are still "hot" when you disconnect the crank battery - the PCR is closed, keeping things hot.



5 minutes doesn't do it - and is harder on the engine. It takes more than 5 minutes to replenish what was used by the vehicle sitting for a day and then starting it. Monitoring the system voltages after a start after it's been sitting a day or two shows it takes a bit.
These drain just sitting even if you never open or close doors, so they are losing charge just sitting there. Then starting it pulls even more out.
5, even 10 minutes, would be doing more harm than good in the end.

That's right pulling the fuse prevents the check of the aux battery so when you disconnect the aux ground you won't get a message.

 

[BigG]

Unplug the door then plug it in when you leave or need security.

 

[alpineovernappa]

Unplug the door then plug it in when you leave or need security.

Unfortunately that would disable the electric locks as well

 

[ShadowsPapa]

That's right pulling the fuse prevents the check of the aux battery so when you disconnect the aux ground you won't get a message.

It only prevents the check - you still have power to the interior/electronics.
Pulling the fuse doesn't impact the interior at all.

Check with Jerry's method of preventing the check by pulling the fuse. The electronics still function, you can still start and drive the truck.
So it won't solve the OP's question of killing the interior stuff.
There is still power to the electronics - it's just that the PCR can't OPEN. It's always closed otherwise.
The fuse prevents the PCR from opening.
So you've solve nothing as far as killing the electronics.

Follow the power flow here in yellow/orange from the crank positive -
From crank battery to post N2, across the buss to N3, through N3 down to PCR - through the PCR up to the aux + post and then on up to N1.

Since the PCR is always closed (it's a NC relay - power opens it, power does not close it) power will flow through the PCR back up to the electronics. If you pull the fuse, you change nothing. You only prevent the PCR from opening when you PRESS the button to start the truck. That's it.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Unfortunately that would disable the electric locks as well

I've noticed that if I do not have a FOB nearby, the cluster and radio only come on for a few seconds, then go back off. Other stuff only comes on if the FOB is present.

 

[alpineovernappa]

Oh, interesting. Thanks! I’ll have to look into this. I don’t have proximity sensors but I usually do have the fob close by. I’ll try leaving it in the tent and see if it makes a difference. Thank you

 

[TroutFishingInAmerica]

It only prevents the check - you still have power to the interior/electronics.
Pulling the fuse doesn't impact the interior at all.

Check with Jerry's method of preventing the check by pulling the fuse. The electronics still function, you can still start and drive the truck.
So it won't solve the OP's question of killing the interior stuff.
There is still power to the electronics - it's just that the PCR can't OPEN. It's always closed otherwise.
The fuse prevents the PCR from opening.
So you've solve nothing as far as killing the electronics.

Follow the power flow here in yellow/orange from the crank positive -
From crank battery to post N2, across the buss to N3, through N3 down to PCR - through the PCR up to the aux + post and then on up to N1.

Since the PCR is always closed (it's a NC relay - power opens it, power does not close it) power will flow through the PCR back up to the electronics. If you pull the fuse, you change nothing. You only prevent the PCR from opening when you PRESS the button to start the truck. That's it.

Again you are correct. The first thing I said in my first post is this is not what you wanted but it might work for you. I was giving an option. I never claimed it would effect the interior in any way. It's just to have a reserve battery in case the OP drains their battery while camping for extended periods. Again read the first line of my first post here, I said this is not what you were asking for but it might be something that will work for you. The OP has a problem with the battery draining on extended camping and I was giving a suggestion to temporary use his aux for a backup. It's been done. It works. I didn't mention or address the interior, I was giving a possible different solution to the OPs problem. Again I didn't address the interior or answer the OPs question, I suggested a different solution that might possibly work for the OP.

 

[Terminus33]

What about something like a solar battery maintainer?

Battery Maintainer

 

[WILDHOBO]

What about something like a solar battery maintainer?

Battery Maintainer

My thoughts exactly. Don’t modify it. Just maintain the charge. It’s not what you asked, but as someone who camps a lot, it would be my choice if the JT didn’t move for days.

 

[TroutFishingInAmerica]

[/QUOTE]

5 minutes doesn't do it - and is harder on the engine. It takes more than 5 minutes to replenish what was used by the vehicle sitting for a day and then starting it. Monitoring the system voltages after a start after it's been sitting a day or two shows it takes a bit.
These drain just sitting even if you never open or close doors, so they are losing charge just sitting there. Then starting it pulls even more out.
5, even 10 minutes, would be doing more harm than good in the end.

5-10 minutes every week worked fine for me. I hit a deer, got the truck home. Ordered a POS Chinese fake Rubicon bumper that gets good reviews on here but actually sucks IMHO. The truck sat for weeks until the bumper arived. I started it maybe once a week until it arived. Didn't like it. Sold it. Ordered a awesome made in USA bumper and again waited again for weeks, I started it maybe once a week for 5-10 minutes. Never a problem, fired right up. I'm pretty sure I can start my truck for 5-10 minutes a day and it's going to start. I have the time right now if anyone wants me to test this, I'll start my truck for 5 days for 5 minutes and that's all, I have the opportunity right now to do it, if there is interest I'll do it. Even though this is absolutely stupid and I know the outcome I'll sacrifice time and effort for the good of all mankind. You're Welcome.

 

[Mister Lamb]

I'd just pull some interior fuses and keep them handy.

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