FLUndertaker
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New JT. Curious what the best order for tire, suspension, flare mods is? If the goal is 37s and I don’t have $10k to do it all at once.
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makes sense. Just sort of dreading the look with 3” of lift with stock wheels and tires. Lol. Sort of like the muscle head who never does leg day. you can get away with it while wearing sweatpants but once the shorts go on everyone knows your secret.Lift then tires. Flares should be fine as is. Regear if you feel you need it.
Lift, tires, & wheels shouldn't cost you anywhere NEAR $10,000... Shouldn't cost even HALF that...New JT. Curious what the best order for tire, suspension, flare mods is? If the goal is 37s and I don’t have $10k to do it all at once.
it may be slight exaggeration but it’ll certainly be over $5000. My plans are for a Clayton Off-road Overland Plus kit plus shocks ~$3000 plus $800 for install and alignment. Black Rhino wheels and Nitto Mud grapplers ~$3000. Metalcloak fenders front and rear ~$1500. That’s conservatively $7500.Lift, tires, & wheels shouldn't cost you anywhere NEAR $10,000... Shouldn't cost even HALF that...
Not to shit on your parade but those flares aren't really functional...in fact they can cause way moire harm than good. Those plastic fenders are just rigid enough not give, yet transfer the hit to fender panel (denting the body) but not rigid enough to take a hit. I wouldn't recommend anyone get those if you're going to offroad it. The stock flares are better in this respect because they can just rip away. And stock works with 37s.everyone saying lift before flares, but I feel like they are interchangeable here. I had my lift paid for on order when I did flares. 37's should be no problem with the Flares on our JT's.
These are only 35's (I have new wheels & waiting on Patagonia 37's) but here is a No real lift with flares & then with the lift (2.5" Clayton Overland). Flares are the relatively speaking cheap bushwackers.
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You must not of used these fenders because your wrong. They flex more then the factory fenders & if I got them hung up on something they will rip off without much issue. Your making them out to be way stronger then they are. They are completely functional in keeping most of the rocks and tire slosh off the body. Also as experienced a few weeks ago the side to side clearance lets me get through places without rubbing anything important where stock Rubicon Fenders would hit.Not to shit on your parade but those flares aren't really functional...in fact they can cause way moire harm than good. Those plastic fenders are just rigid enough not give, yet transfer the hit to fender panel (denting the body) but not rigid enough to take a hit. I wouldn't recommend anyone get those if you're going to offroad it. The stock flares are better in this respect because they can just rip away. And stock works with 37s.
I have extensive experience. And the body damage that followed...which is why no longer have them. Bushwacker and Poison Spyder.You must not of used these fenders because your wrong. They flex more then the factory fenders & if I got them hung up on something they will rip off without much issue. Your making them out to be way stronger then they are. They are completely functional in keeping most of the rocks and tire slosh off the body. Also as experienced a few weeks ago the side to side clearance lets me get through places without rubbing anything important where stock Rubicon Fenders would hit.
OK, Im confused now. The pics appear to show the Bushwacker flares that you mention arent solid. Was this just to support your statement that they arent substantial and you had first hand knowledge? Also your last partial statement mentions Bushwacker and Poison Spyder, are you also saying the PS Crusher flares wont hold up? Understand I am not arguing, only trying to follow the discussion here as to whats quality and whats lesser. For the record, I am only considering metal fares and have pretty much narrowed it down to the PS, Fabtech, and Metalcloak. Unless someone really has something powerful to say and evidence to back it up, I am likely going to pop on the MC. They appear the most well designed, follow the body lines well and install very easily while providing amongst the best protection.I have extensive experience. And the body damage that followed...which is why no longer have them. Bushwacker and Poison Spyder.
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I think he was just pointing out that he changed from the bushwacker to the PS flares.OK, Im confused now. The pics appear to show the Bushwacker flares that you mention arent solid. Was this just to support your statement that they arent substantial and you had first hand knowledge? Also your last partial statement mentions Bushwacker and Poison Spyder, are you also saying the PS Crusher flares wont hold up? Understand I am not arguing, only trying to follow the discussion here as to whats quality and whats lesser. For the record, I am only considering metal fares and have pretty much narrowed it down to the PS, Fabtech, and Metalcloak. Unless someone really has something powerful to say and evidence to back it up, I am likely going to pop on the MC. They appear the most well designed, follow the body lines well and install very easily while providing amongst the best protection.