Question regarding ESC light and Steering wheel position sensor

[double J]

If your steering wheel is crooked, adjust drag link to center it. Maybe pulling extra weight and off center steering wheel, is causing the problem.

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[ShadowsPapa]

If your steering wheel is crooked, adjust drag link to center it. Maybe pulling extra weight and off center steering wheel, is causing the problem.

This makes much sense.

 

[zebest]

The dealership has my car, wouldn't they have noticed the steering wheel and done this for me? They are charging me $250 and said there is no issues with my jeep

 

[ShadowsPapa]

The dealership has my car, wouldn't they have noticed the steering wheel and done this for me? They are charging me $250 and said there is no issues with my jeep

Unlikely they'd say anything unless they found it undrivable.
If the steering wheel is "off-center" while going straight, they likely won't see that unless they drive a stretch of straight road - highway, etc.
The Jeep will notice and believe you are trying to correct for something.

If you feel like you want to and can - you can recenter the steering wheel pretty easily. It's a single adjustment of the draglink.
What I did was to drive mine on a FLAT stretch of highway with little to no road crown and once I had it going straight, I used tape to mark the very top of the steering wheel.
I put it in my garage and positioned it so that tape was at the top again.
I then adjusted the drag link until the steering wheel was straight, drove it, still off just a tad, brought it back and did just a bit more, done. Perfectly centered.

 

[zebest]

ok, I just got the jeep back and they provided all the error messages, I just got back so I am going to research them more as well.

ECU - PCM- Code U0418 - Implausible Data received from Brake System Module 1

ECU - ABS - Code C0051-28 - Steering wheel Position Sensor-Signal Bias Level Out of Range / Zero Adjustment failure

ECU- ABS- Code C0051-62 - Steering wheel Position Sensor-Signal Compare Failure

ECU-DTCM - Code U0415-00- Invalid Data Received from Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) Control Module "A"

ECU - RADIO - Code U0565-00 - Implausible Data Received from Rear Camera Module

ECU - DASM - Code C2227-00 - ABS Disabled ECU

ECU - DASM - Code U0415-00 - Invalid Data Received from Anti-Lock Brake Sytem (ABS) Control Module "A"

ECU - DASM - Code C0063-9A - Yaw. Rate Sensor-Component or System Operating Conditions.

That is all the errors I got (seems like a lot).

The person who checked me out said Jeeps and a few other newer trucks don't alway cooperate with Trailers and this sort of thing happens. He said at that point, the trailer manufacture will point the blame at jeep and viceversa.

He also told me to check my 7 cable plug, said I pin could be bent, and lastly said this type or errors or voltage spikes could really mess up my computers and the repairs won't be covered and will be costly.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

The person who checked me out said Jeeps and a few other newer trucks don't alway cooperate with Trailers and this sort of thing happens. He said at that point, the trailer manufacture will point the blame at jeep and viceversa.

He also told me to check my 7 cable plug, said I pin could be bent, and lastly said this type or errors or voltage spikes could really mess up my computers and the repairs won't be covered and will be costly.

Smells fishy.
Voltage spikes? From what?
Bent "pin"? Have they looked to see how implausible that is?

 

[zebest]

it looks like a lot of these errors could be due to "a failing auxiliary battery with insufficient voltage can cause various sensor and electronic issues, including those leading to the C2227-00 code."

Anyone have any ideas, grateful for any info.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

it looks like a lot of these errors could be due to "a failing auxiliary battery with insufficient voltage can cause various sensor and electronic issues, including those leading to the C2227-00 code."

Anyone have any ideas, grateful for any info.

What you should do before anything else is get a volt meter - even a $15 meter at Walmart or Menards, and with your truck off, open the hood and check the voltage at the main/crank battery terminals.

Also check the voltage at the high current fuse N3 and even terminal N1

Start there rather than assuming. Could be correct - but, nothing like "proving it" before spending time and money.

 

[Lost1wing]

Your steering wheel wasn't straight. You have a steering wheel position sensor fault / zero adjustment failure. Yaw rate will clear when your steering wheel position sensor is cleared. Some of your ABS faults will clear too. The communication faults are odd for a sensor fault. Modules could be confused?

If the shop cleared your faults and your vehicles alignment is okay, it is possible that you connected the hitch incorrectly. If your wheel is straight now but off center with the trailer connected, I would look at you set up a little closer.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

If your wheel is straight now but off center with the trailer connected, I would look at you set up a little closer.

That would take a change in height by at least 3/4" or so......... (how do I know this? All of the spring swapping I did!)

So a tongue-heavy setup that pulls down on the rear may pull the front up and cause it to be off-center - by a little, but still, maybe enough.

 

[Lost1wing]

A steering wheel sensor fault will cause abs faults. Abs faults will not cause steering wheel position sensor faults.

The position of the steering wheel lets the abs module know which wheel it needs to brake/release. A bad ABS module will not give you a Swps zero adjustment failer.

 

[Lost1wing]

That would take a change in height by at least 3/4" or so......... (how do I know this? All of the spring swapping I did!)

So a tongue-heavy setup that pulls down on the rear may pull the front up and cause it to be off-center - buy a little, but still, maybe enough.

You have done a half link adjustment just to fine tune the hitch? I'm talking 1/2 to 3/4 inch drop on one front wheel with a half link. You don't have to have even links. What you care about is trying to keep the drop in front even. If he starts with 31 inches on both sides and connects the hitch, lets say 3 full links, his drop could be 1 inch on one side and half on the other. The drop needs to be even, not the links. I have never used a weight distributing hitch with a Gladiator. I have with my Duramax.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I have never used a weight distributing hitch with a Gladiator. I have with my Duramax.

I haven't either.
I've never had one side higher or lower than the other with my Ford or Chevy trucks - always did the same on both sides, even links. Never had one side higher than the other.

 

[zebest]

I will try the battery test, I was looking for my volt meter today and couldn't find it, I may buy one tomorrow.

My Equalizer Weight Distrubtion Hitch doesn't use links, rather a different type of setup with L brackets and washers to adjust height. First thing I will do though is Battery and then test driving straight, today it did seem to pull to the left a little when letting go of the steering wheel and not staying perfectly straight. Thanks for all your help thus far.

 

[Gladiatorguy]

Shadowspapa knows his stuff. Sounds like maybe the dealer rep might not. I have towed with and without a WDH, with and without mechanical (friction) sway control. 1,000 to 6,000 lbs. I have the same Tekonsha brake controller. Never had a problem like yours on JK, JL, several JTs and GCs, no suspension mods on any. Disconnect your brake control at the vehicle connection. That will eliminate any wiring or controller issues. Disconnect and check batteries. Check any fuses that may be affected (ABS, trailer lights/power/brakes, etc.). If you still have codes and the dealer won’t fix it under warranty, find another dealer or elevate the issue with Stellantis.

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