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Rear sway bar delete?

DiscoDino

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Do you have an improvement on the street that's noticeable? Certain bumps cause my max tow to dance the rear some, also concrete interstate surfaces with expansion joints cause a slight disruption I wish I could cure.
massive improvement on road, especially in wide sweeping high speed curves...the side to side shaking is eliminated thanks to the rear Rock Krawler 4 link kit

Since we're fixing to tow a travel trailer, not just cargo, I'm glad to hear that. I remember my grandad putting custom Hellwig overload springs on his Mazda B2000 back in '81, they have been making good stuff for a long time.
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Rear anti-sway bar deletes are done mostly on leaf sprung vehicles with stiff springs that do not lean much when cornering, even without an anti-sway bar. Removing the rear anti-sway bar on a Gladiator is going to cause drivability and highway safety concerns. What perceived problem are you trying to resolve?
 

aegiscpo

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Yeah, I actually upgraded mine as well to the Hellwig...MUCH better!
What position did you put the end link on lightest, middle or tightest, I have the Hellwig as well, but haven't installed it yet. Their website recommends the middle setting, just curious to see what those who installed it have used. thanks.
 

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Do you have an improvement on the street that's noticeable? Certain bumps cause my max tow to dance the rear some, also concrete interstate surfaces with expansion joints cause a slight disruption I wish I could cure.
I think what your experiencing is a light rear end with stiff springs. They are Designed to handle a heavy load so they are pretty stiff. I would think a stiffer sway bar would only make the rear more ridged. Larger tires with less PSI could soften it up a little?
 

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On a daily driver or truck/vehicle that you will be towing or hauling stuff, keep the rear sway bar. If the JT is like other Jeeps, the rear bar doesn’t limit suspension travel very much.

On my old ZJ, I did ditch the rear sway and never noticed it. I picked up quite a bit more travel.

i won’t be removing on my JT as the trails I’ll be on plus lockers mean no issues if a tire is in the air.
 
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Rear anti-sway bar deletes are done mostly on leaf sprung vehicles with stiff springs that do not lean much when cornering, even without an anti-sway bar. Removing the rear anti-sway bar on a Gladiator is going to cause drivability and highway safety concerns. What perceived problem are you trying to resolve?
What position did you put the end link on lightest, middle or tightest, I have the Hellwig as well, but haven't installed it yet. Their website recommends the middle setting, just curious to see what those who installed it have used. thanks.
So, I had the Hellwig rear bar installed when I had the hemi installed in January 2020. It was installed on the middle setting. When the work was complete, I flew from Atlanta to Charlotte and caught a shuttle up to Boone, picked it up and drove it back to Atlanta. The difference all around was amazing And it handled the winding backroads and eventually I-85 better than any solid axle truck I’ve ever driven. I also have a Mopar lift and 13.50/37-20 Nittos. A couple months later, I was on 285 on my way to work and I noticed the rear was much looser than I remembered. Two days later as I was leaving the gym, I noticed something hanging down on the passenger rear. It was the end link! The upper bolt fell out. When I got home, I rummaged through my bolt bin and found the exact bolt. When I inspected the boss, there was no sign of any locktite, so I removed the other side (It had blue locktite). I added blue locktite to both and reinstalled them and it was back to normal. I also ran experiments and frankly, I could not really tell the difference in the three settings so I left it in the middle. About an hour ago, I got back to Atlanta from New York driving 80-90 mph most of the way and it was rock solid. I think this is a great upgrade!
 

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So, I had the Hellwig rear bar installed when I had the hemi installed in January 2020. It was installed on the middle setting. When the work was complete, I flew from Atlanta to Charlotte and caught a shuttle up to Boone, picked it up and drove it back to Atlanta. The difference all around was amazing And it handled the winding backroads and eventually I-85 better than any solid axle truck I’ve ever driven. I also have a Mopar lift and 13.50/37-20 Nittos. A couple months later, I was on 285 on my way to work and I noticed the rear was much looser than I remembered. Two days later as I was leaving the gym, I noticed something hanging down on the passenger rear. It was the end link! The upper bolt fell out. When I got home, I rummaged through my bolt bin and found the exact bolt. When I inspected the boss, there was no sign of any locktite, so I removed the other side (It had blue locktite). I added blue locktite to both and reinstalled them and it was back to normal. I also ran experiments and frankly, I could not really tell the difference in the three settings so I left it in the middle. About an hour ago, I got back to Atlanta from New York driving 80-90 mph most of the way and it was rock solid. I think this is a great upgrade!
I also have the Mopar lift. With the Hellwig sway bar, would I need the 3-5" lift kit version or the regular height version?
 

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I got the "stock" option, since I ordered the 2" longer Mopar swaybar end links for less than the difference in cost. You need the stock height/no links option unless you've further lifted your truck.

Did you get the "stock height" sway bar or did you get the 3-5" lift bar? I also have the Mopar 2" lift, not sure which to get
 

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You don’t disconnect the rear link, I thought. It’s been shown that it decreases articulation at the front
It actually only decreases articulation on an RTI ramp or similar obstacle where weight shifts backwards heavily forcing a squat. When you find yourself crossed up on more level terrain it will definitely help but that's the only time it's nice to have.
 

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I got the "stock" option, since I ordered the 2" longer Mopar swaybar end links for less than the difference in cost. You need the stock height/no links option unless you've further lifted your truck.
Thanks!
 

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so I can def say that having vs not having the rear sway bar makes no difference wheeling or driving on pavement be it interstate at 95 or around town when not towing. I did this back to back essentially and the truck was as stable as ever if not tracking better
 

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Removing the sway bar will so horribly impact on-road manners that it should really be reserved for only off road use.

And then only crawling at low speed.

Also, remember that having so much roll stiffness in the front compared to the rear will result in very VERY unbalanced handling. Ridiculous understeer will be the result.

so I can def say that having vs not having the rear sway bar makes no difference wheeling or driving on pavement be it interstate at 95 or around town when not towing. I did this back to back essentially and the truck was as stable as ever if not tracking better
Now try an emergency accident avoidance maneuver and let us know how it turns out.
 

shrinkhead

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Removing the sway bar will so horribly impact on-road manners that it should really be reserved for only off road use.

And then only crawling at low speed.

Also, remember that having so much roll stiffness in the front compared to the rear will result in very VERY unbalanced handling. Ridiculous understeer will be the result.



Now try an emergency accident avoidance maneuver and let us know how it turns out.
challenging to do back to back. that being said I drive my JT like my raptor and there is no noticeable difference. have you actually tried it on the JT?
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