chunk of solder in the terminal end then put it in the vise, then torch until the solder melts while it’s still molten insert the wire, then crimp while hot.
Let me give you some thoughts on your quest. This same quest started with me before my JT, I had a 2014 F150: same challenges: hanging it in the spare space under the bed, control access bad, mud bad. In the Ford I finally settled on a piece of 2x4x1/4” steel tubing in the front of the bed and welded a receiver hitch to the tubing and mounted it via the two bed bolts (One time use bolts) and upgraded to some grade 8’s. Worked like a charm, except to your point extreme pull angles and steep drop pull angles over the opened tailgate. Now the JT…the bed bolts on the JT are a waste of time because they’re from the bottom up, not top down and their diameter is very small, because there’s a lot more of them anchoring the bed compared to the Ford. I went to a steel bumper with a tire swing out to get the spare out from under the bed. I went with a smaller rated winch for it’s physical weight that wouldn’t adversely effect the the coil ride and control. Bought an Apex 5500 long drum, with a 100’ of 1/4” synthetic rope for less weight and longer reach out the back. On the heavier pulls with it I use snatch blocks for 11k pull on a couple of line raps at the spool. My first effort was to figure out how to mount it in the spare spot, the only thing that made sense was to bridge across the frame rails with a piece of channel. Did the load math for the channel mount with the thickness required and it was dismal, way too much additional weight required to make a safe pull of another full size rig out of the mud. I owned a Drawtite winch plate receiver (no longer produced) so I thought mount it up to the Apex and take it for a spin. The pics attached shows options that I looked at. It fit well into the back of the receiver pretty well, I would just rotate the winch on the Drawtite platform and add another fairlead to the new rear bumper, but reaching the controls and spool observation was still an issue that this position couldn’t resolve. I boxed the controls in a old Pelican case with Anderson plugs. Currently I have it out the back of the rear hitch. Added coil bags to help with the extra weight. I hope this can help you.
Good to hear, please post your build, I’m very interested in your results. I didn’t address departure angle on mine but, I’m currently reinforcing with 1/4” the Drawtite plate to make it more “slippery“ , using the trail scars on it as my pattern.
I did an install like that to the front of my CJ2 1/2 and it was a disaster. It completely ruined that little Jeep's off road ability and I had to remove it. I learned after that Jeep design is to allow the chassis to flex quite a lot and I guess especially important with the leaf spring models. Looking at that rear install with all the plating and bracing I'd have to wonder what sort of stresses its placing on the chassis just during normal operation.
