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ReGearing soon, question about the break in period for new gears.

XraytecH

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ReGearing because I miss seeing 8th sometimes 7th gear. I'm running 35s with 3.73.

I know the break in procedure but I'm a little dubious about changing the oil in "Both" differentials.

My Glad is primarily pavement queen and the front axel will most likely see no action. So after the break in period, do I have to change the oil in both Diffs even though the front Diff is basically there for decoration?

Sorry, first time owning a 4x4.
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WK2JT

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ReGearing because I miss seeing 8th sometimes 7th gear. I'm running 35s with 3.73.

I know the break in procedure but I'm a little dubious about changing the oil in "Both" differentials.

My Glad is primarily pavement queen and the front axel will most likely see no action. So after the break in period, do I have to change the oil in both Diffs even though the front Diff is basically there for decoration?

Sorry, first time owning a 4x4.
My $.02... While you could probably get away with it, it’s usually included in the cost of the regear. If not, it’s a minor cost for piece of mind for an expensive regear.
 

ShadowsPapa

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My $.02... While you could probably get away with it, it’s usually included in the cost of the regear. If not, it’s a minor cost for piece of mind for an expensive regear.
I do agree - and I wonder about this ->
What I think I would do is find a place where you could drive it a bit in 4H and work things around a bit. The thing about older differentials with a FAD is that the carrier gears are still spinning in the carrier even if the carrier with ring and pinion don't turn. I'd want to "Exercise" it and churn things up, work the gears a bit even if just a field or pasture for a few minutes. Find a gravel road and exercise it.
The time and lube is cheap - compared...........
 

whiteglad

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I recommend 50 miles of gentle driving, accel and decel, on each set of gears, with the best quality lube to help prevent scuffing. Then change both lubes, again using quality stuff. I like Mobil 1 syn and Lubrication Engineers 1605.
 

Andrew05LJR

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Over the years, there's been a ton of debate on gear break in. Here's the thing, do you break in your gears on your brand new truck? Probably not. Only one shop Ive got gears done at has suggested a fluid change at 500 and that was in my 05 LJR where I went really deep 5.38s which in those axles, was a small pinion and they wanted to check everything out. Was free to me. Other than that, everyone else said drive to highway speeds, conservatively for few minutes, slow down and let the gears cool to touch. Drive again same way. Done. Dont over think this.
 

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Mjolnir

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I would agree with Andrew above.

However, on the multiple regears I have done, I have always been told go easy for the first 50 miles. After 500 change the oil and you're set. I tend to go a bit over on both of those items, but never had issues. I trust my 4x4 shop so I do what theysay.
 

OMTBiker

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Re-geared mine 1-1/2 weeks ago, performed 4 20 minute heat cycles with cool down in between. Engaged 4wd hi at stop lights where the road was straight with speeds up to 30mph within those heat cycles. After those, went on two 15 minute heat cycles on the expressway with cool down in between then one last heat cycle on the expressway for 20 miles then cool down on the way home. Continued on my way home, all expressway between 60-75 for 400 miles. I will be doing the 500 mile service this week.
 

Deleted member 28696

ReGearing because I miss seeing 8th sometimes 7th gear. I'm running 35s with 3.73.

I know the break in procedure but I'm a little dubious about changing the oil in "Both" differentials.

My Glad is primarily pavement queen and the front axel will most likely see no action. So after the break in period, do I have to change the oil in both Diffs even though the front Diff is basically there for decoration?

Sorry, first time owning a 4x4.
Just had 5.13s put in last week. I have to bring it back into the shop @ 1,000 miles to change out the fluids. Was told to keep it under 65 MPH while the steel tempers etc. After that they said it should be good & can drive it like normal from that point forward.
 

ShadowsPapa

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Just had 5.13s put in last week. I have to bring it back into the shop @ 1,000 miles to change out the fluids. Was told to keep it under 65 MPH while the steel tempers etc. After that they said it should be good & can drive it like normal from that point forward.
While the steel tempers??
It had better be already tempered. He's got to be talking about break-in of sorts, not tempering.
Tempering requires pretty high temperatures.
 

Deleted member 28696

While the steel tempers??
It had better be already tempered. He's got to be talking about break-in of sorts, not tempering.
Tempering requires pretty high temperatures.
Yeah he was saying about the heating & cooling & the tempering of the gears & not to drive it over 60 -65 MPH until it fully tempers. They seem to know what they are doing. I don’t know any different so I’m taking his word on it. 🤷‍♂️
 

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Deleted member 28696

Yeah he was saying about the heating & cooling & the tempering of the gears & not to drive it over 60 -65 MPH until it fully tempers. They seem to know what they are doing. I don’t know any different so I’m taking his word on it. 🤷‍♂️
Here is the break in procedure from revolution gears. Apparently new gears ⚙ run hot & this procedure keeps them from overheating. So that’s probably what he meant about tempering the gears. https://www.revolutiongear.com/ring_and_pinion_break_procedure
 

ShadowsPapa

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Yeah, they'd not be tempering in the real sense of tempering steel. They'd best be tempered already or they won't make it 10 miles.
What that link talks about makes sense - wearing off the NORMAL high spots on new gears. They lap them as expected, but there's still a surface like the moon if you magnify it. It's sort of a burnishing process in a way.
Either way........... whatever they're calling it, it's a break-in process and once they've been TOO hot - you're done. I've seen blue gears - pretty, but not in your truck.
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