Will do. Springs are dual rate. Recommended for improved off road capability was the rear geometry correction brackets and rear track bar relocation brackets., so I ordered those as well. We will sow how much drop it gives me…
I got a second recommendation for the front axle Johnny Joint Kit, so I ordered that as well. I should be a flexin fool after this kit gets installed…lol(I'm sorry this is so long)
I've been disappointed by the lack of information regarding this lift and the JL/JT market. Seems they've just kind of disappeared...
RockJock is a fairly new branding. All their lifts historically were branded as Currie lift kits, or if you went through their cohorts down the street, Savvy Off Road.
If you remember that Gladiator getting the everloving piss beat out of it at the King of the Hammers in 2019... that was Savvy:
Back in the TJ generation the Currie 4" kit was considered top dog. I installed the 4" Savvy Off Road variant on my TJ, which was the Currie kit but with aluminum arms.
Nothing beats the Currie Johnny Joints they use at the ends of the arms. They're rebuild-able cartridge joints. People sometimes caution to stay away because they can transmit vibration into the frame but I think that's mostly hogwash. What they do thanks to their smooth unrestricted movement is allow the forces to go directly into the suspension where they belong. There's none of that reverberating feeling you get with rubber bushings when you hit a bump. I put over 50k miles across probably 8 years of all season driving on mine before they started to squeak a bit, and a quick pump of grease took care of that.
Here's a pic I took of the stock front lower arm on the Gladiator beside the arms on my well traveled TJ. Just to show the difference in length between short arms on a TJ and modern geometry. And the angle it sits at...
And the articulation that I was able to achieve with the stubby arms in the Currie kit, thanks to those Johnny Joints. This is with an Antirock front sway bar and stock rear sway bar connected:
^ note those little t-rex arms doing work. The point I'm trying to drive home here, is extrapolate those arms out to twice the length. Your control arms will far and away be the last thing limiting your travel on the Gladiator with the JJs. If you want the most precise feeling arms, and the most free articulating arms on the market without changing suspension mounting points, those are what you want.
As for the Antirock... with the electronic front disco on the Rubi and how nice they ride stock, I don't really see the point, personally. I'd leave the sway bars alone to keep it stiffer for truck use, hauling, daily driving, etc. Then just disco off road. The Antirock is a brilliant little piece of kit on it's own though. If you're building the Jeep for off road primarily, then an antirock on each end will play really well together. And you won't have to worry about it breaking, or even have to reach for a switch when it's play time.
I just got my Glad a couple months ago and went with a spacer lift for now, while I figure out what I think it needs. I'm currently running RockJock bump stop spacers front and rear with their carrier bearing spacer. When/if I decide to lift further and go for a full out lift, I'll more than likely be purchasing a full set of RockJock arms and piecing the rest together.
::edit::
and to add to that, when I did the lift on my TJ it made the ride so much smoother and got rid of all that reverb I was talking about, but there was still a tiny bit there. It was the stock upper bushings on the front axle. It looks like it's still the same way today, those bushings are pressed into the axle for the upper arms and the kit doesn't come with them. Once I finally got around to swapping out those two upper bushings to JJs, it got rid of the last bit of fluttery feeling.
If you were to do this kit, I'd recommend doing those as well. Why quit 95% there
https://www.rockjock4x4.com/RJ-301000-103
Also one more thing... their control arm bolts I think come with everything, but I find them to be a bit gimmicky. And expensive. I could never get them to take grease, and the locking nuts usually deform the thread if you ever taken them back out. I ended up reusing a lot of the factory control arm bolts or getting some grade 8s in the same size to keep on hand as spares.
Note: Geometry correction brackets for the rear control arms is for "on-road" handling. Off-road, it will cause you to loose 2" or 3" of clearance. I do not run them.
The RJ geometry brackets will allow for more droop, they keep the pinion angle pointed closer to the front of the driveshaft. Without them, the driveshaft was the limiting factor for droop on my truck, the Rzeppa joint would bind at the pumpkin (this bind occurred VERY close to full extension). The geometry brackets eliminate that bind and I get full droop and no bad driveshaft angles. The brackets raise the upper control arm axle mounts and don't limit my up-travel either.
It’s a great kit! I have tackled some of the toughest trails in Big Bear as well as Cougar Buttes and Moab. This lift remains uncompromised. Install is a bit time consuming. I added the rear geometry relaxation brackets, new front driveshaft, Bilstein 5160 shocks, and Johnny Joint front axle kit. It’s solid and have nothing negative to say. Nothing has broken or let me down. Street and off road drivability is great. Tows a 20 foot trailer as well.
Great to hear! Looks good! Did you get all 8 control arms? Is the currectlynk steering holding up well?It’s a great kit! I have tackled some of the toughest trails in Big Bear as well as Cougar Buttes and Moab. This lift remains uncompromised. Install is a bit time consuming. I added the rear geometry relaxation brackets, new front driveshaft, Bilstein 5160 shocks, and Johnny Joint front axle kit. It’s solid and have nothing negative to say. Nothing has broken or let me down. Street and off road drivability is great. Tows a 20 foot trailer as well.
Yes, currectlync has no issues as well. You really can’t go wrong with anything RockJock
I was considering getting the RockJock arms for the JT then got the itch and decided to upgrade the TJ instead from the Savvy short arm to the full Savvy mid arm kit. Love me some Johnny Joints and double adjustable aluminum arms. I'll get to the JT eventually but the TJ does the real wheeling and the two just serve different purposes.
These are the old upper vs new upper arms. The Johnny Joints here have never been greased, and were daily driven and regularly wheeled in a salty climate for 10 years and are still totally tight. Can't say enough about them.
Nice! I have a TJ as well, with the Savvy short arm kit. Figured I’d upgrade the JT instead. Best of both worlds.I was considering getting the RockJock arms for the JT then got the itch and decided to upgrade the TJ instead from the Savvy short arm to the full Savvy mid arm kit. Love me some Johnny Joints and double adjustable aluminum arms. I'll get to the JT eventually but the TJ does the real wheeling and the two just serve different purposes.
These are the old upper vs new upper arms. The Johnny Joints here have never been greased, and were daily driven and regularly wheeled in a salty climate for 10 years and are still totally tight. Can't say enough about them.
