Seeking Advice to Eliminate Rear Axle Hop on Gladiator Overland

[alexlab79]

Hi, I have a Gladiator overland with automatic transmission. When it had only 2,000 km on the odometer and was non-lifted, I experienced some very violent rear axle hop while off-roading in the snow. Now, at 8,000 km, I've installed lift springs that add 2.5 inches at the front and 1.5 inches at the rear—resulting in an effective lift of approximately 3.5 inches at the front and 2.5 inches at the rear. I’ve also upgraded to Bilstein shocks and trackbar at the front; however, I'm still running the stock shocks at the rear.

I’m determined to eliminate the rear axle hop, and I've been researching several solutions. I’d love to hear your opinions on the following options:

1. Upgrading to better shocks in the rear.
2. Installing a lower control arm with high-quality bushings (like Johny Joint).
3. Using a Gladiator third rear shock / Mopar Power Hop damper kit. (but i dont know if it works with my lift)
   
   
   
4. Other solution: If anyone has alternative ideas or modifications that could help reduce the axle hop further, please share your thoughts.

What do you think would be the most effective way to minimize the rear axle hop without compromising on/off-road performance? I appreciate any feedback or insights you might have. other solution?

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[darkhorse13]

To answer your questions...

1. Upgrading to better shocks in the rear. = Falcon SP2 3.3's or Fox 2.5 Elite's did not resolve it for me
2. Installing a lower control arm with high-quality bushings (like Johny Joint). = My RK 4 link with adventure joints + Synergy Mfg lowers with Dual Durometer Bushings did not resolve it either
3. Using a Gladiator third rear shock / Mopar Power Hop damper kit. (but i dont know if it works with my lift) = can't help you with the lift compatibility piece, but seems like the best part-related solution IMO
4. Other solution: If anyone has alternative ideas or modifications that could help reduce the axle hop further, please share your thoughts. = 2 footed driving with one on gas and other dragging the brake.

I went snow wheeling about 4 years ago and experienced the same nasty wheel hop in the rear (can't find my thread where I also asked about wheel hop). I had Synergy Mfg Lowers + OEM uppers + OEM trackbar at the time. I switched 1 year later to Rock Krawler 4 link with their Adventure Joints in the uppers + same Synergy Mfg lowers and of course no track bar... still experienced the hop. Both my Falcon SP2 3.3's and my Fox 2.5 Elite shocks did not remedy the situation as an FYI.

The only thing that worked for me to eliminate the hop was 2 footed driving. One foot slightly on the brake pedal and the other on the gas. This stopped the wheel hop as the tire starting "biting" while allowing me to keep forward momentum. I'm always 2 foot driving when wheeling for more control and smoother power application, and in the instance of snow wheeling it stopped the wheel hop to drag the brakes slightly.

Besides the Power Hop Kit, I'm personally not aware of an effective parts-related solution. I think when the tires start finally catching traction in the snow then the hop starts, because I watch plenty of YouTube Hemi Gladiators ripping thru snow but they are constantly in the throttle throwing snow

 

[Jaxmax]

Is it happening all the time now or are you looking back and not wanting it to happen again?
I had hop coming over steep soft sand dunes and saw others having same thing, I got the axle shock and have never had it again, and rear has a much more "planted" feel, but there are very few of us with that shock and it will only fit if you have the four bosses on top of differential and the shock mount on the frame, not all models had that, which was weird as my Mojave was never intended to get it and it seemed like it was mostly on sports with manual transmission. Not sure how it would work on a 2.5 inch lift, the angle it pushes against would change and lenght might be an issue. Search for it there might be people with it on lifts, somehow I think Minty has one and he is higher then that......Jack @Minty JL

 

[alexlab79]

Is it happening all the time now or are you looking back and not wanting it to happen again?
I had hop coming over steep soft sand dunes and saw others having same thing, I got the axle shock and have never had it again, and rear has a much more "planted" feel, but there are very few of us with that shock and it will only fit if you have the four bosses on top of differential and the shock mount on the frame, not all models had that, which was weird as my Mojave was never intended to get it and it seemed like it was mostly on sports with manual transmission. Not sure how it would work on a 2.5 inch lift, the angle it pushes against would change and lenght might be an issue. Search for it there might be people with it on lifts, somehow I think Minty has one and he is higher then that......Jack @Minty JL

Hi Jack,

Thanks for the input. To clarify, the hop only occurred a few times in heavy, deep snow, and I really want to prevent it from happening again. It would be great to have confirmation that the shock works with a rear lift that’s sold as a 1.5-inch(on JTR) lift but actually measures about 2.5 inches on Overland!. Just to note, I didn’t have a lift when I experienced the issue—the lift is a very recent upgrade.

 

[Zachanadandy]

The rock krawler triangulated rear 4 link completely eliminated rear axle hop on my 2023 mojave both when it had stock springs with 2" AEV spacers and now on metalcloak 3.5" lift springs. I think the biggest problem in the stock setup is the super short upper arms. If I remember the stock uppers were only 15". The rock krawler uppers are 24". Much closer in lengh to the lowers so you don't get huge pinion angle changes with suspension movement. Ride and handling are much better too. Best mod I've ever done to any Jeep.

 

[Stan H]

The rock krawler triangulated rear 4 link completely eliminated rear axle hop on my 2023 mojave both when it had stock springs with 2" AEV spacers and now on metalcloak 3.5" lift springs. I think the biggest problem in the stock setup is the super short upper arms. If I remember the stock uppers were only 15". The rock krawler uppers are 24". Much closer in lengh to the lowers so you don't get huge pinion angle changes with suspension movement. Ride and handling are much better too. Best mod I've ever done to any Jeep.

Where do the new longer arms bolt on too?

 

[darkhorse13]

Where do the new longer arms bolt on too?

They bolt to the stock frame location as the OEM short arms, then to the custom RK truss on the axle side.

 

[Jaxmax]

Yup ,Minty has one on a lifted Mojave!

 

[Zachanadandy]

Where do the new longer arms bolt on too?

Stock frame mounts and the provided axle truss. The truss bolts on to the axle but you do have to drill out and tap the bolt holes that hold the e brake cables to a larger size. Easy enough install and well worth it. No need for a rear track bar thanks to the triangulated uppers.

 

[JeepOfTheseus]

Is there any way to determine the specs of the damper in that Mopar kit? Meaning: could it be swapped for another shock?

 

[Hemy5587]

I have the Mopar 2" lift, 37s and have the Mopar Dampener kit. I didn't have any issues before install, it was more of a precautionary addition than anything but it installed without any issues and no negative impacts since. However, you may want to check to make sure you have the frame mount location and the axle holes. It was my understanding that maybe the later years of Gladiator didn't come with those. I have a 2020 so the mounting points were there. I have also swapped my Fox Shocks that came with the Mopar lift kit to Bilstein 5100s, a much better shock imo. More stable and not as bouncy as the Fox Shocks were.

 

[Tommy_P]

Maybe bags from Air Lift? https://www.airliftcompany.com/shop/60830
I don't do much wheeling other than beach driving so i don't know if this would help wheel hop or intensify it I installed them for a payload increase/ leveling when hauling sand and garden soil. The install was pretty easy from what i remember. I installed the air valve on the bumper next to my license plate.

 

[alexlab79]

I have the Mopar 2" lift, 37s and have the Mopar Dampener kit. I didn't have any issues before install, it was more of a precautionary addition than anything but it installed without any issues and no negative impacts since. However, you may want to check to make sure you have the frame mount location and the axle holes. It was my understanding that maybe the later years of Gladiator didn't come with those. I have a 2020 so the mounting points were there. I have also swapped my Fox Shocks that came with the Mopar lift kit to Bilstein 5100s, a much better shock imo. More stable and not as bouncy as the Fox Shocks were.

Thanks, I have the frame mounts and the four mounting points on the axles(Overland 2023 8spd auto). I'm still running the stock OEM black shock in the rear, and my next step is to install Bilstein 5100 shocks in the rear. I want to see the difference before making any other modifications—I don't want to install parts and then change my mind afterward.

I'm hesitating between a few options. Apparently, the Rear Upper Control Arm Correction Bracket significantly helps with this issue, according to a local expert, but I haven't seen any user reviews on it. The 4-link conversion is also interesting—it's expensive, but if I don't spend unnecessarily elsewhere, it's not too bad. Plus, with the 4-link setup, there's no need for an adjustable rear track bar and/or a relocation bracket for the track bar. Right now, I don't have one, and I'm slightly off-center.

However, welding onto my differential is something I'm not sure I'm comfortable with. Then there's the third shock option, which seems interesting but is quite expensive for just a shock and bracket in Canada—$500–600 CAD plus tax. Add the track bar ($300–400 CAD) and the track bar bracket ($300–400 CAD), and the total cost is almost the same as a Pro-X 4-link conversion at around $1,300 CAD plus tax.

But making small upgrades one at a time seems less concerning for my wife.

 

[Zachanadandy]

Thanks, I have the frame mounts and the four mounting points on the axles(Overland 2023 8spd auto). I'm still running the stock OEM black shock in the rear, and my next step is to install Bilstein 5100 shocks in the rear. I want to see the difference before making any other modifications—I don't want to install parts and then change my mind afterward.

I'm hesitating between a few options. Apparently, the Rear Upper Control Arm Correction Bracket significantly helps with this issue, according to a local expert, but I haven't seen any user reviews on it. The 4-link conversion is also interesting—it's expensive, but if I don't spend unnecessarily elsewhere, it's not too bad. Plus, with the 4-link setup, there's no need for an adjustable rear track bar and/or a relocation bracket for the track bar. Right now, I don't have one, and I'm slightly off-center.

However, welding onto my differential is something I'm not sure I'm comfortable with. Then there's the third shock option, which seems interesting but is quite expensive for just a shock and bracket in Canada—$500–600 CAD plus tax. Add the track bar ($300–400 CAD) and the track bar bracket ($300–400 CAD), and the total cost is almost the same as a Pro-X 4-link conversion at around $1,300 CAD plus tax.

But making small upgrades one at a time seems less concerning for my wife.

The truss is bolt on with the option of welding. It doesn't have to be welded. I think rustys now offers a similar kit too.

 

[Hemy5587]

Another thing to consider would be the metal cloak sway bar reinforcement bracket:

https://metalcloak.com/jt-gladiator...W_hcUrc8Zb7gwP37fmG8jwxSEd-TWHzDxdvMs3YMwL4_c

It would just protect your sway bar end links from being ripped out of the frame if your wheel hop is violent enough. I know, I know more parts but ask for forgiveness rather than permission and then buy her something shiny . I would start with new shocks and go from there. I was surprised by the difference in just changing those as far as manners go on and off road.

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