Service Transmission - Manual

[J Sunsurf]

I spent three hours yesterday on the phone - supposedly a specialist was going to call me yesterday. They did not, of course. I asked them to give me a buyback offer but still no word on that. I'm going to call today and just aske them to tow it back to me. The dealer was honest yesterday. He basically said I don't have the time to mess with it this week, and you aren't coming back anyway.

This has been the worst customer service experience I've ever had, and I've had many. I highly discourage anyone who drives on sand to avoid a manual.

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[Birds83]

I spent three hours yesterday on the phone - supposedly a specialist was going to call me yesterday. They did not, of course. I asked them to give me a buyback offer but still no word on that. I'm going to call today and just aske them to tow it back to me. The dealer was honest yesterday. He basically said I don't have the time to mess with it this week, and you aren't coming back anyway.

This has been the worst customer service experience I've ever had, and I've had many. I highly discourage anyone who drives on sand to avoid a manual.

I’m goin to be looking at an update aftermarket clutch. Heard good things about ATC I think it was.

wonder if JScan could clear a service transmission light.

 

[J Sunsurf]

The dealer cleared it, and Tazer said they are confident their product can clear it. I would probably pay for a more robust clutch, but I honestly thing there's a disconnect in the computer. The dealer said that the computer measures RPM, gear, and wheel speed and if they don't match, assumes the clutch is slipping then throws the light. I would be curious if there's actually something that reports the clutch temperature - because it throws the message that the clutch is hot, and meanwhile I sure don't smell the burning clutch smell that usually accompanies that.

 

[Birds83]

The dealer cleared it, and Tazer said they are confident their product can clear it. I would probably pay for a more robust clutch, but I honestly thing there's a disconnect in the computer. The dealer said that the computer measures RPM, gear, and wheel speed and if they don't match, assumes the clutch is slipping then throws the light. I would be curious if there's actually something that reports the clutch temperature - because it throws the message that the clutch is hot, and meanwhile I sure don't smell the burning clutch smell that usually accompanies that.

I messaged Tazer but so far I’ve not been able to get it to clear using my Tazer.

 

[Badunit]

The dealer said that the computer measures RPM, gear, and wheel speed and if they don't match, assumes the clutch is slipping then throws the light.

Makes sense. Many threads on this problem mention that regearing can cause it to happen if the new gears are not programmed into the computer. Tire size does not matter.

This guy's long video mentions briefly what worked for him. And below is a screenshot from the video. This was was mentioned by ilmostro in an earlier post (if this works I don't want to steal the credit).

 

[Birds83]

Makes sense. Many threads on this problem mention that regearing can cause it to happen if the new gears are not programmed into the computer. Tire size does not matter.

This guy's long video mentions briefly what worked for him. And below is a screenshot from the video. This was was mentioned by ilmostro in an earlier post (if this works I don't want to steal the credit).

Good to hear. I need to get a JScan set up that’s what that looks like.
can’t be down like this again.

 

[DylanM]

...
I would be curious if there's actually something that reports the clutch temperature - because it throws the message that the clutch is hot, and meanwhile I sure don't smell the burning clutch smell that usually accompanies that.

I'm not finding any evidence of anything that directly detects clutch temperature. Like others have alluded to, it appears to be the computer comparing engine rpm to known gearing information and vehicle speed to determine if the clutch is slipping -- if engine revs are above a certain threshold for the current gearing/speed it assumes there's slippage.

 

[Birds83]

The dealer cleared it, and Tazer said they are confident their product can clear it. I would probably pay for a more robust clutch, but I honestly thing there's a disconnect in the computer. The dealer said that the computer measures RPM, gear, and wheel speed and if they don't match, assumes the clutch is slipping then throws the light. I would be curious if there's actually something that reports the clutch temperature - because it throws the message that the clutch is hot, and meanwhile I sure don't smell the burning clutch smell that usually accompanies that.

I was just reading this

The dealer cleared it, and Tazer said they are confident their product can clear it. I would probably pay for a more robust clutch, but I honestly thing there's a disconnect in the computer. The dealer said that the computer measures RPM, gear, and wheel speed and if they don't match, assumes the clutch is slipping then throws the light. I would be curious if there's actually something that reports the clutch temperature - because it throws the message that the clutch is hot, and meanwhile I sure don't smell the burning clutch smell that usually accompanies that.

Reading your whole post. You got a white Mojave in the outerbanks?

I saw it at the dealer if it was when I was there getting my clutch reset from having the similar issue after riding out on Hatteras ramp 48 the other day when it was thick during the rain. Plaid around with 4Hi and lo just trying it out but didn’t slip clutch mutch and cruised a lot in the sand prior till the overheat and service transmission light.

apparently we aren’t the only ones having a issue. I’m curious if the pressure plate isn’t strong enough and is slipping and we don’t know it while in the sand/offroad even though not any burning smell really.

the dealer was great to help and I’d already tried resetting with Tazer and disconnecting battery. Well the codes were gone but wouldn’t come out of
Limp mode and the service transmission light wouldn’t turn off. The dealer reset the clutch and I was able to ride out on the beach in more packed sand with no issue.


So now I’m looking at aftermarket clutch. I hate the clutch feel and don’t want this to happen again.
Also still trying to find something that can reset the clutch I can’t be stranded like that on the beach 70 miles from a dealer again.

 

[J Sunsurf]

Yes! That was mine. I'm back at work and dropping it off at a dealer in Pennsylvania for them to look at it Wednesday. So, it seems like this is a for-real issue. I was given some shade at the beginning about driver error, but I'm guessing they can't ignore the issue. I'm going to probably push for a clutch replacement. If this happens again when I'm back on the Banks if June, it will be totally unacceptable. If they are willing to do a swap to a more robust clutch I'll feel a lot better.

 

[Birds83]

Yes! That was mine. I'm back at work and dropping it off at a dealer in Pennsylvania for them to look at it Wednesday. So, it seems like this is a for-real issue. I was given some shade at the beginning about driver error, but I'm guessing they can't ignore the issue. I'm going to probably push for a clutch replacement. If this happens again when I'm back on the Banks if June, it will be totally unacceptable. If they are willing to do a swap to a more robust clutch I'll feel a lot better.

yeah sorry to hear man. They treated me very we but were super busy so maybe you just caught them on a bad day.

2 things I’ve learned so far since last week.

1. JScan with a good reader and I think we can reset the clutch in the computer when the service transmission light comes on and puts it in limp. Just clearing the codes did not reset it for me!

2. Fairly confindent that it’s the horrible factory clutch and other then feeling horrible it maybe slipping when off-roading even when fully engaged. I’m trying to research and ask personal opinions on here as to what’s the best aftermarket clutch to install. Worst case the clutch will feel better and not be as easy to stall as it is OEM.

I’m back in June for a few days hopefully will take care of both of these by then. Minimally I need to be able to reset it out on the island cause as you know getting to the dealer is a hike.

 

[J Sunsurf]

Yep, I'm going to attack this from a few angles. I'm going to push Jeep for a clutch replacement reimbursement. The clutch itself is terrible. I'm also going to look into the earlier posted youtube video about the reset you need done that's not shown on the TSB. Lastly, I'm going to purchase a Jscan tool, and obtain some sort of authorization from Jeep to use if I get stranded again. I'll try and keep this thread going.

 

[J Sunsurf]

So update from the local dealer in PA. They are saying no problem found because the clutch is "operating normally" including going into limp mode. I didn't really want to fault the dealer, since they have to go by what the service SOP is. But I asked if he's had this issue previously, and mine is the first one. I've reached out to the Jeep Wave case manager to ask where to go from here. I may just ask for a buyback or start a lemon law claim. The truck is registered in FL, and reasonable attempt to repair is three tries. So, I've met my three tries. I know the buyback process will be painful, because I put $2,000 in leather seats and $400 in foglights in already.

Apparently I have the latest software updates - don't know if the dealer has heard about the J scan trick, but I'm going to show him tomorrow when I pick up the truck.

It's a real shame. I like the truck. If I could get Jeep to reimburse me for a more robust clutch, that would be fine as well. Especially if I knew it would solve the issue.

 

[Birds83]

So update from the local dealer in PA. They are saying no problem found because the clutch is "operating normally" including going into limp mode. I didn't really want to fault the dealer, since they have to go by what the service SOP is. But I asked if he's had this issue previously, and mine is the first one. I've reached out to the Jeep Wave case manager to ask where to go from here. I may just ask for a buyback or start a lemon law claim. The truck is registered in FL, and reasonable attempt to repair is three tries. So, I've met my three tries. I know the buyback process will be painful, because I put $2,000 in leather seats and $400 in foglights in already.

Apparently I have the latest software updates - don't know if the dealer has heard about the J scan trick, but I'm going to show him tomorrow when I pick up the truck.

It's a real shame. I like the truck. If I could get Jeep to reimburse me for a more robust clutch, that would be fine as well. Especially if I knew it would solve the issue.

I should have my JScan next week and plan to see what functions I can do ? I’ll be able to reset the clutch.
Also my new clutch should be here next week (ACT with promass flywheel) which depending on work I hope to have installed next Wednesday or Thursday as well….

Thought is the clutch should fix the issue(and make the clutch itself feel better) and if it doesn’t and it’s 100% software I’m gonna be able to self reset and move on till Jeep can come up with something.

 

[J Sunsurf]

Are you just going to pay for the ACT clutch and call it a day, or are you going to try and get some sort of reimbursement from Jeep?

 

[Birds83]

Are you just going to pay for the ACT clutch and call it a day, or are you going to try and get some sort of reimbursement from Jeep?

I supposedly have the updated clutch from Jeep so I figure 0 chance in a reimbursement from them. I bought it myself paid $1,280 I think for the clutch assembly. Worth it in my opinion and possibly best upgrade to do to the 6 speed jeeps.

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