Should I NOT upgrade Axel Shafts so Gears Break Last - Dana 44 on 37s

[KrashEd]

OP, I had stock axle shafts up front and still shredded my (Spicer) ring gear on a trail. I upgraded to RCVs on this rig and they are nice, smooth in 4wd, but chuck grease as folks have stated... and that was with them pre-greased from RCV. Blowing out the front ring gear just showed me that anything can happen given the right circumstances, which is why I upgraded front and rear.

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[willys 41]

When I put 37 and bead locks on my Willys I installed Reid Knuckles, RCVs, Ball joints, and complete Artec truss kit.
From what I have seen on these YouTube recovery videos the front axle U-joint will fail and ether pop out the ball joint or brake the aluminum knuckle.
I have also seen an axle housing at the cast iron FAD. fail.
I have yet to see a JL Dana 44 rear axle shaft fail.
Ones you go heaver and larger tires you may have to improve your brakes also.
I tried different brake systems in including Power stop Z36 pads and Baer SS4 and was not happy at all with the results.
In my opinion. If you want the best brake ever designed for the Jeep Wrangler go with the Teraflex Delta brakes.
Two important features. They use Toyota Tundra brake pads so you have a choice of 100s of pad quality and grades. They use anti knock back springs behind each caliber piston giving you that superior brake pedal. Anti knock back springs are used a lot in race car eliminating the dreaded double pump brake pedal.

 

[Bbannongmu]

37s 5.13 gears, and stock axles on my 2020 Rubi. Weighs about 5,900. 45k miles - towing, camping, hunting, offroad parks, trips from PA to Yellowstone, etc. and no issues with axles. I spent my money on upgraded steering, shocks and control arm joints - all shot at 40k miles

 

[willys 41]

37s 5.13 gears, and stock axles on my 2020 Rubi. Weighs about 5,900. 45k miles - towing, camping, hunting, offroad parks, trips from PA to Yellowstone, etc. and no issues with axles. I spent my money on upgraded steering, shocks and control arm joints - all shot at 40k miles

Nice
I spent 3 weeks on the road last April in Vegas, Sand Hollow and Moab.
We where supported to be gone for 4 weeks Put had to come back home for family issues.
When I was in Moab put my willys on the scale and was at 6400 lbs with out vacation stuff. Just normal gear and me and my wife in the jeep so I decided to put the jeep on a diet.
Two new aluminum bumpers saved 135lbs off the weight.
When we got back I told my boss that it was time to replace my Tundra with 370K miles witch I have owned for 15 years.
They agreed put this time I decided to go big and with some of my cash pick up a 2020 F250 with only 10K miles with a flat bed and then found a goose neck trailer.
No more trying to jam 4 week of my wife's vacation gear in the back of the Willys.

 

[WILDHOBO]

So I have a tendancy to overthink things... but...

I'm putting 37 in tires on my Jeep gladiator. Will likely be running 4.88 gears with 1k - 2k added weight for overlanding. It's running Dana 44 axles. I was considering upgrading the axle shafts to chromoly steel. I know this would reinforce the axle and shafts.

My super important and totally reasonable question though is it better to have weaker axle shafts so they act kinda like a "fuse" that way if something's going to fail from a bad desicion, it will be the axle shaft and not the gears inside which is a more expensive and debilitating fix. I can drive with a single broken axel... not broken gears(... I think). Would it make more sense to not upgrade the actual shaft? I will be doing a Truss on the Axel and Gussets and using Revolution Gears for the gear swap.

The Axel Shafts I were considering were the Revolution ones as well: https://revolutiongear.com/revoluti...adiator-jt-sport-4340-chromoly-rear-axle-kit/

I highly recommend that you do. I’d use RCV, but not the 300m version. RCV told me the 300m is too strong and creates other weak points. But the others are not. I’ve been running them hard for over three years with 37’s and 5.13’s and couldn’t be happier.

 

[WILDHOBO]

Please don't take this the wrong way, but if you aren't sure how RCV axles work or the benefits, then you need to spend more time researching types of upgrades and for what reason you do the upgrade. Basically get some more technical knowledge about stuff so you can make informed decisions about what you need for your application.

If you don't want to do the research then it might be best to hire a shop that does have technical knowledge that can make recommendation for you on what you need for your application.

You will get the knowledge by hanging out here and skimming topics daily that may relate to things your interested in learning about.

I for one am happy to share information. That’s what this forum is for.

RCV fronts get rid of u joint shafts, which cause wheel hop in 4 low when turning, and tend to fail. RCV’s are also hella strong. They don’t leak grease. Some grease naturally escapes between the boot and cv housing. It’s normal. If you don’t over grease them, it doesn’t get on the ground. Just gets on the inside of the knuckles.

 

[WILDHOBO]

When I put 37 and bead locks on my Willys I installed Reid Knuckles, RCVs, Ball joints, and complete Artec truss kit.
From what I have seen on these YouTube recovery videos the front axle U-joint will fail and ether pop out the ball joint or brake the aluminum knuckle.
I have also seen an axle housing at the cast iron FAD. fail.
I have yet to see a JL Dana 44 rear axle shaft fail.
Ones you go heaver and larger tires you may have to improve your brakes also.
I tried different brake systems in including Power stop Z36 pads and Baer SS4 and was not happy at all with the results.
In my opinion. If you want the best brake ever designed for the Jeep Wrangler go with the Teraflex Delta brakes.
Two important features. They use Toyota Tundra brake pads so you have a choice of 100s of pad quality and grades. They use anti knock back springs behind each caliber piston giving you that superior brake pedal. Anti knock back springs are used a lot in race car eliminating the dreaded double pump brake pedal.

Great information. Completely accurate.

 

[CrazyCooter]

Since were quoting weights now..........I rolled over the scale in the beginning of our 5300 mile loop last June and freaked out! I was 8000lb on the truck axles! 5K rear/3K front...... I had my RTT and generator in the bed while towing out 19' Geopro. I moved some weight from front to rear in the RV, moved some weight rear to front in the truck, dumped water, and added a bit more preload to the weight dist hitch to get below the axle weight ratings. We were right at max GCVWR at that point.

I could imagine sliding around in the rocks at 8K could bent the axle flanges and other things, but that's not what I use the truck for.

 

[WILDHOBO]

The RCV's in my YJ have leaked from day one as have all the ones I have installed in JK's. The set I installed into a client's JT might possibly be the leakiest joints yet and no grease has been added in the couple of months they have been installed.

My YJ only gets about 1000 miles + or - per year and I just clean them up while it on the lift for inspections.

They don’t leak. Grease gets out as a natural part of how the joint is designed. The alternative is a sealed boot like Oem cv joints, but you can’t grease those without filling and bursting the boot.

 

[CrazyCooter]

They don’t leak. Grease gets out as a natural part of how the joint is designed. The alternative is a sealed boot like Oem cv joints, but you can’t grease those without filling and bursting the boot.

Yep, they "leak" grease...........Yes it's normal for the design as I warn people about so I'm not the bad guy when they see it. I just wipe them off so it doesn't build up. They could also "leak" water in from the outside and that why RCV warns the UTV crowd to NOT park in water deeper than the axle.

I thought to myself "why would anyone do that"? I guess it's a thing down south to park in a pond and drink beer with your load stereo and big screen TV installed on your UTV?

 

[WILDHOBO]

Yep, they "leak" grease...........Yes it's normal for the design as I warn people about so I'm not the bad guy when they see it. I just wipe them off so it doesn't build up. They could also "leak" water in from the outside and that why RCV warns the UTV crowd to NOT park in water deeper than the axle.

I thought to myself "why would anyone do that"? I guess it's a thing down south to park in a pond and drink beer with your load stereo and big screen TV installed on your UTV?

I guess I just don’t like the word leak, as it implies failure or malfunction. I’ve had mine apart and there is zero evidence of water intrusion after 53k miles with them on. I grease them every 5k miles or so, but do not over do it. 5-6 pumps and I’m done. Grease gets out when the cv housing rotates in the boot, but I wouldn’t call it leaking.

and I have no idea why anyone would park in axle deep water. That’s bonkers. If I cross water, I exit as soon as possible.

 

[CrazyCooter]

I guess I just don’t like the word leak, as it implies failure or malfunction. I’ve had mine apart and there is zero evidence of water intrusion after 53’ miles with them on. I grease them every 5k miles or so, but do not over do it. 5-6 pumps and I’m done. Grease gets out when the cv housing rotates in the boot, but I wouldn’t call it leaking.

and I have no idea why anyone would park in axle deep water. That’s bonkers. If I cross water, I exit as soon as possible.

I get what you are saying....They leak, but it's not a defect at all. I just had to explain this to a JT client recently when a shop was trying to tell him "I left a seal out"....Um, no, there is no seal, the orange boot weeps grease for life! Like a Harley or VW.....if it's not leaking, you better add oil!

No water in mine either and it's been 8 years? I drive through water and get out ASAP as well.......

I think the destructions say lube every 6mo? That's 500 miles for me in the YJ, so I don't do it but maybe 5 pumps a year. Some of my JK clients 6mo is 30K miles, so I feel they need every 2-3 months?

 

[WILDHOBO]

I get what you are saying....They leak, but it's not a defect at all. I just had to explain this to a JT client recently when a shop was trying to tell him "I left a seal out"....Um, no, there is no seal, the orange boot weeps grease for life! Like a Harley or VW.....if it's not leaking, you beter add oil!

No water in mine either and it's been 8 years? I drive through water and get out ASAP as well.......

I think the destructions say lube every 6mo? That's 500 miles for me in the YJ, so I don't do it but maybe 5 pumps a year. Some of my JK clients 6mo is 30K miles, so I feel they need every 2-3 months?

Annoying. It’s too bad another shop that doesn’t understand the product would point fingers as a result. Oh well. That’s why your clients keep coming back.

 

[CrazyCooter]

Annoying. It’s too bad another shop that doesn’t understand the product would point fingers as a result. Oh well. That’s why your clients keep coming back.

Sad thing about this shop is that I just fixed a bunch of stuff for another mess they made. They have the shiny website, cool 4x4 name, presence in a famous nationwide 4x4 organization, what looks like a decent sized crew, and new white painted shop (lab) interior so the unsuspecting guy would "think" they have it all going on...........

 

[Bbannongmu]

Axel

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