Snow Plow

[Summitsearcher]

Wonder if you could use a winch to raise it like on a UTV?
Shouldn't take much fabrication for those of us who have a winch already, those who don't probably could get away with a cheap UTV winch.
I bet that you could even use one of those dual hitches, designed for a bike rack or whatever, then mount a small winch in the top receiver and the plow in the bottom.
Now if I just had time to fabricate........

Yes you can. They actually offer a winch package for it. I assume if you fabricated a bar to go on the uprights with a pulley it would work. It is so light I don’t think it would phase your winch. You’d have to remove it to transport.

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[AmishMike]

@Summitsearcher thanks, and I thought that I didn’t need anything else for my truck right now.

 

[Summitsearcher]

That Swiss Army knife of a truck is a jack of all trades for me. Always looking for other jobs for it to do.
Just
Eliminating
Every
Problem

cost me $75.00 to put the polish hitch on my bumper. Let it snow, let it snow. Let it snow.

 

[AmishMike]

I agree but, I already have a Chevy 3500 duallie with a 8-11' Blizzard and a sander for the back. That blade is so heavy that even with the sander (hitch mount 10? cu/ft) I add about 900 lbs of tractor weights in the bed. So it is hard to justify another plow.

 

[BalancedPete]

Plowed with mine all last season. Love it!!! Mine is a Western Impact V. There is only one dealership that does this setup called Storks Plows in eastern PA. It is actually a UTV plow, so a little lighter. They shipped the whole kit to me. Plow install was pretty easy and straightforward, but the electrical was a bit more involved. The biggest problem is how tight everything is in the engine area. Really not a lot of room to stick all the wiring (and there is a lot!!).

I do feel the V plow is a bit weaker when really pushing the snow up and over the snowpiles you've made previously. For example: when the blade is set flat, but angled to one side, if you are pushing the snow, the wing that is pointed out further will give, and fold back. Not a huge deal, but does add some time to plowing. But, the V is way more aerodynamic when on the freeway! I can honestly say that I don't see a drop in my mileage with the plow. I drive about 45 minutes to Cleveland to my shop every day. A worthwhile tradeoff to the above-mentioned plowing weakness, I think.

I live in Ohio's snowbelt where we get around 80-140" of snow, and use it to plow my 90' curvy driveway (and sometimes a neighbor or two), then plow my 10 car work parking lot.

I had a straight blade Snow Dogg on my previous JKU, and think it was stronger in the above-mentioned situation. I would be curious to try out a standard straight blade Western plow on my Gladdy to see how it holds up. But for now, I really like the V.

Plus, it just looks cool! I get compliments from the "real" plowing guys all the time.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Plan on getting a plow. Participated in 2 or 3 other threads here months ago, and had in-depth conversations with a member here who plows with Jeeps. Looking at a Western, maybe a "Defender".
I need to find exactly how the mounts attach to the frame as I have the front receiver and winch up front taking multiple frame holes and mount points.
I know the skid plate will have to come off and that's fine as that would save some weight right there.
Nixed the idea of a receiver mount and my plowing would be not a ton of area as far as square feet but I MUST control the direction the snow goes while plowing, even in a couple of areas pushing it straight ahead for a ways.
My conversations out of the threads convinced me a home plow and/or receiver mount plow won't be smart for my use as I'll need full control over the plow - height, direction and more (there's some gravel involved)
So if anyone has a real plow like a Western and can show how the mount attaches to the frame - where things attach, that would be cool.
(I see one company called "Snow Way" but have no info about them)

 

[AmishMike]

@ShadowsPapa I know that you are generally thorough in these things, but watch how far out front things are. It is amazing how much the weight of some throw off the truck. We have a 2013 Chevy 3500 duallie with a 8-11 expandable Blizzard and it takes ALL the weight off the rear end, to the point where making a turn on dry pavement is dangerous. I load 1800 lbs of tractor weights at the tailgate or about 900 lbs plus a hitch mount spreader with 500 lbs of sand in it. 10”+ or wet heavy snow gets both 1800+sander. Payload on that truck is >7,000K so no worries there.
The old by plows, had the pump in the truck now just the quick hitch stay on the truck and pump etc mounts way out in front. This moves the COG way out front. I would be tempted to scale each axle and run numbers first. You can only add so much weight in the bed of a JT….

 

[JeepNNJ]

I have the 7'2" Defender and this is the passenger's side view. 3 bolts attach to the frame. They had to drill into the frame, but i do not know for which bolts. The mount is cut around the bolt in the upper right. It is different from my older plow, but i am happy with it. With the receivers removed, the front end drops only 3/16"
They did cut the wind dam on each side and removed the center piece of the grill to make room for the wires. I could always cut holes in the grill for the wires and reattach the center grill

 

[BalancedPete]

Plan on getting a plow. Participated in 2 or 3 other threads here months ago, and had in-depth conversations with a member here who plows with Jeeps. Looking at a Western, maybe a "Defender".
I need to find exactly how the mounts attach to the frame as I have the front receiver and winch up front taking multiple frame holes and mount points.
I know the skid plate will have to come off and that's fine as that would save some weight right there.
Nixed the idea of a receiver mount and my plowing would be not a ton of area as far as square feet but I MUST control the direction the snow goes while plowing, even in a couple of areas pushing it straight ahead for a ways.
My conversations out of the threads convinced me a home plow and/or receiver mount plow won't be smart for my use as I'll need full control over the plow - height, direction and more (there's some gravel involved)
So if anyone has a real plow like a Western and can show how the mount attaches to the frame - where things attach, that would be cool.
(I see one company called "Snow Way" but have no info about them)

Here is a link to the Western Mount Kit installation instructions for a lifted Gladiator. It's the same no matter what plow you get from Western. II Mount Kit PP Jeep Wrangler 2018-__/Jeep Gladiator 2020-__ #32113 (storksplows.com)

I've got an Overland with a 2" Mopar lift, Teraflex 3/4" spacers and 35" tires. My height measurement was way more than the required 10 1/4", so I also had to add their lowering brackets to the receiver points where the plow fits in.

The installation is pretty easy, and took me about 2 hours to do working at a slow pace. The front bumper does need to be removed, and the underside plastic air dam has to be removed and trimmed.

 

[The dude]

So, that 'floater', it runs up and down the verticals? When not in use, you hang it on top of them for transporting?
I have plowed for 30 years and never saw anything quite like that for a truck.

@thedude I have a Blizzard 8-11 for our duallie, man are they heavy. I can't imagine something like that on the front of a JT.
Nice Sportage. I was with Kia when they first came to the US. At their R&D center, I saw an axle out of a Sportage that was chucked solid on one end and the other end turned 90° in both directions from center, it did that all day long.

This boss isn’t too bad 7-6” v weighs right around 500lbs. Really handles well the Kia my wife bought new in 2000. She still loves it

 

[Tonyb89]

Im so close to trading my 2500 ram for a gladiator. Trying to decide if i should give up plowing commercial and just enjoy plowing my own driveway with a gladiator. @BalancedPete looks like you have the perfect setup. Exactly what i would want.

 

[Summitsearcher]

Most certainly do your homework. I’m confident @ShadowsPapa is very thorough in any decision he makes with his experience as you all are. Make an informed choice based on application and needs. I personally went with a plow that provides me the most minimal impact to my vehicle and inexpensive. If my truck is in the shop I can put it on the back of any car with a receiver and get it done in reverse. Like backing up a trailer.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I have the 7'2" Defender and this is the passenger's side view. 3 bolts attach to the frame. They had to drill into the frame, but i do not know for which bolts. The mount is cut around the bolt in the upper right. It is different from my older plow, but i am happy with it. With the receivers removed, the front end drops only 3/16"
They did cut the wind dam on each side and removed the center piece of the grill to make room for the wires. I could always cut holes in the grill for the wires and reattach the center grill

Wow, thanks for the great picture.

Multiple questions -
May I assume the brackets/mounting go on the outboard sides of the frame, and not the sides of the frame facing the engine? I have a receiver/hitch that bolts to the faces of the frame that face the engine and not the tires. There's no room to mount anything at all as the receiver and winch plate take more than every hole and every bit of real estate in that area. There's no way to put anything else on the frame there.

Blade/plow width - debating 6'8" vs 7'2" plow............ want to make sure when angled it plows the width of the truck and then a bit, but also want it to be able to fit into my garage and not be over-kill for my use and needs.

What is the purpose of removing the bumper and enlarging the holes in the front end of the frame? Just curious as I don't see where those are used for anything. .And, especially since I have solid steel spacer plates on the front to move the bumper forward 3/16" for clearance with winch. The yellow zinc color in this pic is the spacer plate I gave a nice plating in yellow zinc to prevent rust)
Bumper removal won't be fun with all the stuff I have up there LOL.

I've got an Overland with a 2" Mopar lift, Teraflex 3/4" spacers and 35" tires. My height measurement was way more than the required 10 1/4", so I also had to add their lowering brackets to the receiver points where the plow fits in.

The installation is pretty easy, and took me about 2 hours to do working at a slow pace. The front bumper does need to be removed, and the underside plastic air dam has to be removed and trimmed.

Using their measurement to determine mounting bracket needed, I come up with 21.25"
But I have stock diameter tires (a bit wider, but stock diameter) and the weight I have up front keeps the front sitting a bit low even with the Synergy springs.

I have an Overland - BUT - it's more like a Rubicon on the front now.
I have the Rubicon style steel bumper, the Rubicon skid plate that attaches to the bumper, and a Bulldog winch plate, Apex 1200 winch, etc. up front. And - I have a Curt 2" receiver up there so I can't bolt anything at all to the inward faces of the frame! There's no space, no holes left. In fact, I had to cut the lower/rear skid plate brackets to clear the receiver so those brackets are attached to the frame using only 1 bolt each.

 

[BalancedPete]

Wow, thanks for the great picture.

Multiple questions -
May I assume the brackets/mounting go on the outboard sides of the frame, and not the sides of the frame facing the engine? I have a receiver/hitch that bolts to the faces of the frame that face the engine and not the tires. There's no room to mount anything at all as the receiver and winch plate take more than every hole and every bit of real estate in that area. There's no way to put anything else on the frame there.

Blade/plow width - debating 6'8" vs 7'2" plow............ want to make sure when angled it plows the width of the truck and then a bit, but also want it to be able to fit into my garage and not be over-kill for my use and needs.

What is the purpose of removing the bumper and enlarging the holes in the front end of the frame? Just curious as I don't see where those are used for anything. .And, especially since I have solid steel spacer plates on the front to move the bumper forward 3/16" for clearance with winch. The yellow zinc color in this pic is the spacer plate I gave a nice plating in yellow zinc to prevent rust)
Bumper removal won't be fun with all the stuff I have up there LOL.

Using their measurement to determine mounting bracket needed, I come up with 21.25"
But I have stock diameter tires (a bit wider, but stock diameter) and the weight I have up front keeps the front sitting a bit low even with the Synergy springs.

I have an Overland - BUT - it's more like a Rubicon on the front now.
I have the Rubicon style steel bumper, the Rubicon skid plate that attaches to the bumper, and a Bulldog winch plate, Apex 1200 winch, etc. up front. And - I have a Curt 2" receiver up there so I can't bolt anything at all to the inward faces of the frame! There's no space, no holes left. In fact, I had to cut the lower/rear skid plate brackets to clear the receiver so those brackets are attached to the frame using only 1 bolt each.

Enlarging the holes in the front bumper plates is to allow for the nuts with welded on arms to slide through. You fish those in (~12" or so) and the welded on arms stick out through the hole. Give you something to hold onto while you tighten the bolt through the bracket from the outside. Once done, you use a cutoff wheel and trim the couple inches sticking out so its flush. The hole in the side is just to allow for a bigger bolt.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Enlarging the holes in the front bumper plates is to allow for the nuts with welded on arms to slide through. You fish those in (~12" or so) and the welded on arms stick out through the hole. Give you something to hold onto while you tighten the bolt through the bracket from the outside. Once done, you use a cutoff wheel and trim the couple inches sticking out so its flush. The hole in the side is just to allow for a bigger bolt.

Yeah, I finally read the install instructions on a real PC with a real screen and saw where they used the larger hole in the front to fish in the rear-most bolt for their brackets. And they used the bracket hole as a "template" to make the side slot larger for said bolt.

Did some measuring and I can't see a 6'8" blade working well esp when angled. So I'm looking at 7'2"

Looks like their brackets bolt on the wheel side of the frame - should be no interference with the receiver or winch plate

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