Speaker - DIY Fabrication

[evco]

I am crafty but not creative. I am curious of others that have fabricated their own enclosures for subwoofers and other speaker units and where they have placed them. Under seats and behind the back seat isn’t in my interest due to multiple reasons(2 actually, storage and air flow for the sub). I have a 2024 Sport S JT.

My Initial thoughts would include putting a sub in the center console facing the back seat (removal of cup holders and cutting a hole). I have also thought of welding a cross beam across the back of roll cage to hang marine type speakers. Any success in hanging such speakers on the current roll cage?

Let me know your thoughts! Pictures and ideas are very much welcomed.

Sponsored

 

[tysongladiator]

I have. Over the past 7 years, I have built three different sub boxes for my Jeep. The first one had one 10" sub, second was two 10" subs, and the one that I have now has three 8" subs. They've all been underseat boxes though. And I know that you're not interested in that. But... I have other suggestions.

When building a sub box, you have to keep in mind that a box of the correct size has to be built for the particular sub. You could get a couple 8" subs that would require a small box, build one for under the seat and still have room for storage. My one 10" sub was like that. Half was the box and the other half was still storage. If I wanted to, I could have just installed two 8" subs and have space for storage as well.

Another option is DS18. I think they make a overhead box that houses 8" subs. I know they have one for 6" subs.

I've had a rockhard 4x4 rear cage installed in my jeep for about 5yrs now. I have a speaker box mounted to it with highs and mids. I used to have two marine speakers mounted to it.

Mounting a sub in the center console isn't a bad idea. Although I wouldn't just cut a hole. If you're going to do that, the best idea is to build or have built a custom center console for a sub. The main issue is having a correctly built box to get the best sound.

I'm out of town for the weekend, but when I get back home next week, I'll edit my post and add a few pictures which my give you few ideas. Especially where my rear overhead speakers are mounted.

 

[S JEEPN]

The best thing about subs is they do not need to be open and aimed at you as mentioned they should be sized for the size of the speakers or you might as well not build boxes to mount them in. The marine wake tower speakers are a good option as long as you do not mind them being out there on display when the top is off and if you have the top off they will better survive i used to see wake tower enclosures that you can put better than included or more performance for the price speakers into. Crutchfield may have options i have bought a lot of components over the years from them and was never disappointed. Wakeboard Tower Speakers | Crutchfield

 

[Dilly’S Willy]

As others have mentioned, the enclosure needs to be built to match the requirements of the subwoofer, or you'll lose output, significantly. They are also GENERALLY unidirectional, meaning GENERALLY you can face them any direction and still hear the bass. BUT.
- BUT, you do still have to factor how the sound is "imaged". This is when you change the direction the pressure waves (sound) will bounce and reverberate off of, say the seats or floor. THIS is why subs that the cone faces the floor actually hit harder vs facing up/out, those pressure wave hit the metal chassis and reverberate through it vs softer materials that absorb some of that pressure before it passes around/through them.

Also, 6" subs are JUNK even compared to an 8" or a 10". They do NOT have the frequency response, they don't hit low enough, and become muddy when you combine fast hits and low frequencies. The ONLY thing they're good for: BASS, not SUB-BASS, just BASS. Think drum kicks.

I've personally built sound systems for people, I worked for a local audio shop (cars/trucks/boats/jetski/atv/SxS) and the 6" always lacked in output vs a comparable 8".
- A customer owned a 3000GT convertible, wanted subs but due to the top didn't have trunk space and still wanted their back 2+2 seats for passengers. We used Kicker 6" subs, a matching amp rated for about 200rms (100 each) and a DSP with the aftermarket radio. The sound WAS better, with the top open. But due to being an open-air cabin, you need 2-3x the output to overcome the wind noise and massive "cabin space" that the pressure waves bounce off (or the lack of). The customer ended up adding 2 12s and never having passengers because they were not getting the output they wanted, which we told them it wouldn't be the same up front.


You'd be better off hard mounting 2 10" active subs behind the rear seats. I'd get marine grade personally if you drive with the tops/doors off and live in a place with weather, which the North East is known for random storms. Or standard units if you leave the top on, better prices and more options, just not "IP"/marine rated.

Sponsored