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Sport S max Tow a better deal?

Concentric_Killa

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Hello all,
10 year tacoma owner and am thinking about selling my heavily modded 2nd gen taco for a gladiator. I have a lot of mods to the taco (Long travel front + rear, gears, + misc mods), so this is a hard decision, but after 10 years I want something different. I think I can get a gladiator to similar performance level (or better) of my taco without to many mods.

I have been on the jeep site and have even downloaded the pricing spread sheet found on this forum. From my recent research, it seems like a sport S with the max tow package is a better deal over the rubicon?

From my experience modding my tacoma, I would like to only pay for features that are necessary. Why finance a feature that would eventually be replaced? People mention re-sale value, but I plan on keeping the gladiator for years if I decide to switch.

If I decided to sell my taco, I think I would like the following out of the gladiator:

- Lockers. I use my factory toyota E-locker quite a bit, it is pretty handy to have. I have never had a front locker, mainly because a front locker sucks with IFS.
- Trans cooler. My taco is a manual, but the gladiator will be an auto. I figure this is a must.
- 4:10 gears. In my taco, I have 4:56's, and run 255/85/16 (Tall 33's). I would like to run 33's out of the gate. 4:10 would be able to turn 33's without issue. 3:73's are a total dog while running 33's.
- Aux switches. I currently have an S-pod in the taco. I like the idea of a factory fuse panel integrated into the dash.
- Add some decent rock sliders.
- Add a full belly skid (maybe artec).
- Aftermarket lift ( Icon, or terraflex).

With the above addon's, it still seems like a cheaper option over a baseline rubicon.

I am not sure how reliable the e-lockers are in Jeeps. I didn't have any issues with the factory e-locker in my taco.

I also read that some options are mandatory from a dealer standpoint with the rubicon (LED's, Safety sense). If I can configure a rubicon without extra 'required' options, or get an end of the year 2020 model I might consider that.

Thoughts?
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Mr._Bill

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If you want factory lockers, you will need to go with a Rubicon or the new Mohave (available in a few months). Use the design tool on the web site and configure it the way you want. Then look through dealer inventory and see what is available on the lots.

I plan to keep my truck for a long time. I configured it with every option possible, and found only one available within 150 miles. I bought that one instead of ordering and waiting for one. The only thing I didn't get, that I wanted, was the engine block heater. I would also like a front camera, but I went with an Overland. I'm hoping it will eventually be available as a dealer installable option.
 

Blade1668

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I went with a Sport S Max Tow, Aux switch, H.top I did want the Trac-Loc rear. I'd rather have Lockers, but the 4 to 1 low in T-case is something I have not needed in past, in fact I think that it's to low for my experiences. The 2.72-1 has been good enough with Trac-Loc and locker in front, 4:56 gears in my XJ "rock crawler".… Same reason I didn't get Rubicon LJ. a lot of extra $ is spent buying a Rubicon if you are changing tires, rims, springs, drive line ECT... Then only Rubicon left is hood, VIN, T-case, trim, badges, maybe axles w factory be lockers. Higher taxes, tags (state depending) and initial cost. So if you're just going to drive it as is Rubicon gets a lot for many "out of the box" after market lockers work in 4 high with out a "add on cost black box" to re map system. IMHO but I'm not getting to flog the hell out of my vehicle daily or weekly anymore. Kind of why I didn't "up grade my drive shaft u-joints a better fuze than major part. They do look great at the mall though... ;)
 
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Concentric_Killa

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I went with a Sport S Max Tow, Aux switch, H.top I did want the Trac-Loc rear. I'd rather have Lockers, but the 4 to 1 low in T-case is something I have not needed in past, in fact I think that it's to low for my experiences. The 2.72-1 has been good enough with Trac-Loc and locker in front, 4:56 gears in my XJ "rock crawler".… Same reason I didn't get Rubicon LJ. a lot of extra $ is spent buying a Rubicon if you are changing tires, rims, springs, drive line ECT... Then only Rubicon left is hood, VIN, T-case, trim, badges, maybe axles w factory be lockers. Higher taxes, tags (state depending) and initial cost. So if you're just going to drive it as is Rubicon gets a lot for many "out of the box" after market lockers work in 4 high with out a "add on cost black box" to re map system. IMHO but I'm not getting to flog the hell out of my vehicle daily or weekly anymore. Kind of why I didn't "up grade my drive shaft u-joints a better fuze than major part. They do look great at the mall though... ;)
Pretty much how I look at it. I spent a lot on my taco over the years. If the initial cost isn't much, that makes me feel better in the long run on purchasing skids, sliders, + other crap. I think the Sport S outfitted in a similar manner as what you did is the better option in the long run.

Now that I look at it, my taco transfer case has a ratio of 2.57:1, so the gladiator will crawl with a 2.72:1. Not sure I need the 4:1 that the rubicon has.

I think I am on the right track. If I however find a rubicon under 50K I might consider it.
 

futzin'

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I also read that some options are mandatory from a dealer standpoint with the rubicon (LED's, Safety sense). If I can configure a rubicon without extra 'required' options, or get an end of the year 2020 model I might consider that.
Safety pkg. is not currently being forced on ordered trucks, pretty sure. Neither are LEDs, unless you want front camera, then yes.
Check out the dealers on the forum for discounts on ordered trucks (Sponsored section of the Forum). You'll likely be under 50 with one of them.
 

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whiteglad

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As noted above, if you want the factory e-locker in the rear, get a Mojave or Rubicon. If the posi is enough, the latest built max tow optioned sport s has it. I will wait for a Detroit or Yukon locker for my earlier built max tow. I too prefer the 2.72 low range, having had the 4:1 Rubi before.
 
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Concentric_Killa

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Safety pkg. is not currently being forced on ordered trucks, pretty sure. Neither are LEDs, unless you want front camera, then yes.
Check out the dealers on the forum for discounts on ordered trucks (Sponsored section of the Forum). You'll likely be under 50 with one of them.
Sounds like guys in this thread are having issues getting past $2000 worth of in wanted accessories on a Rubicon (keyless, safety stuff).

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/required-rubicon-options.24023/

Sound like guys can't even order a manual in the Rubicon at this point. I am sure this is a supply issue
 

TX_F35

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Pretty much how I look at it. I spent a lot on my taco over the years. If the initial cost isn't much, that makes me feel better in the long run on purchasing skids, sliders, + other crap. I think the Sport S outfitted in a similar manner as what you did is the better option in the long run.

Now that I look at it, my taco transfer case has a ratio of 2.57:1, so the gladiator will crawl with a 2.72:1. Not sure I need the 4:1 that the rubicon has.

I think I am on the right track. If I however find a rubicon under 50K I might consider it.


In Fort Worth the Moritz Jeep has some rubi listed for 45k. With life time power train warranty . Pull the trigger !!!
 

Blade1668

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I have not verified that the T-case is 2:72 -1 ratio but that's a standard ratio for NV transfer cases. It's easier to spin tires and clear out mud with out "redlining engine" to. When I was heavy in to Rock crawling I was thinking about getting a Atlas T-case and that was when I figured out a lower ratio wasn't in my needed list... I could pick up a NVs 231 with 2:72 as a spare part ready to bolt in too.
 
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Concentric_Killa

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In Fort Worth the Moritz Jeep has some rubi listed for 45k. With life time power train warranty . Pull the trigger !!!
Unfortunately, I need to sell my tacoma first. I am trying to minimize my monthly pmt. I haven't had a vehicle payment in years! Also, Fort Worth is a little far from Utah.. In the Utah thread, members are going up to Idaho for some decent deals.
 

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Depends? What do you want to do? Big off road, go Rubicon, more occasionally off road more running around and don't want to get stuck go overland, want to tow and do a lot of your own modifications go Sport S, just want to get started on a budget Sport.
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