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Steep Downhill w/Switchbacks in 4-Lo

Trailman

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A question for all you experienced wheelers:

When descending steep trails with sharp switchbacks, do you use 4-Lo to stay off the brake?

If yes, when you reach a switchback do you leave it in 4-Lo?

If yes, is the "whomp whomp whomp" jerk of the steering wheel and front axle normal and ok, and something you accept?

(If no, do you put it in 4-Hi or 2-Hi?)

I ask because I do say yes to all three of these but making tight turns in 4-Lo gives me pause as I worry I'm damaging something. Any thoughts and advice appreciated!
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HorneyBadger

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Making tight turns will give you the jerking as both tires are trying to roll at the same speed. The inside tire will want to roll less. you will feel it especially in 4lo. How sharp are the switchbacks?

Hopefully the ground is soft enough to let the tire spin but if the switchbacks are bad enough you may want to go to 2hi. but that will be a PITA!
 
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Trailman

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Making tight turns will give you the jerking as both tires are trying to roll at the same speed. The inside tire will want to roll less. you will feel it especially in 4lo. How sharp are the switchbacks?

Hopefully the ground is soft enough to let the tire spin but if the switchbacks are bad enough you may want to go to 2hi. but that will be a PITA!
"PITA" - exactly my thoughts. I don't want to throw it from 4-Lo t 2-Hi at every switch back, which are often very close together.

I'm talking about full turn in either direction (full left or right) to make a switchback. Yes, loose dirt/rock. But the tires (Falken MT) are grippy enough that they still cause the jerking feeling. When I'm in 4-Hi I tend to throw it in 2-Hi for sharp switchbacks unless I definitely need 4. But 4-Lo is a different animal.
 

HorneyBadger

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"PITA" - exactly my thoughts. I don't want to throw it from 4-Lo t 2-Hi at every switch back, which are often very close together.

I'm talking about full turn in either direction (full left or right) to make a switchback. Yes, loose dirt/rock. But the tires (Falken MT) are grippy enough that they still cause the jerking feeling. When I'm in 4-Hi I tend to throw it in 2-Hi for sharp switchbacks unless I definitely need 4. But 4-Lo is a different animal.
Yea, the full deflection is where the pain always is...even in 4 Hi. You dont want that binding for too long or too often.
 

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If you have a front locker make sure it is unlocked when you make the turns. It will help but not eliminate that bind up of the steering u-joints. Steep descents with switchbacks, I always use 4-low.
 
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DocMike

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This. All day. I just wheel in 4 low and use my tiptronic.
I stay off the brakes til I need them. I'm at 4.88 and 35s. I use 1,2,3,4 and switch out of tip on easier sections.

On steep trails and off-camber trails, even with switchbacks, 4-lo and 1st or 2nd gear to minimize braking. Engine braking is very beneficial.
 

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Curious, are you doing 2-3 point turns to complete the switchback or just one tight turn? I would think you are going to have to do at least 2 point turns most times? I am not that experiencesd off road either. 35s no lockers, auto, max tow.
 
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Trailman

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Thanks all - sounds like I am doing everything right and need to not worry too much about it. In these scenarios I am usually in 4-Lo manual shifting, sitting between 2 and 4 depending on terrain. I don't know why the Gladiator seems like it jerks more, other than that my previous experience was in a 2-door Wrangler that probably didn't need to work as hard to make the turns.

Curious, are you doing 2-3 point turns to complete the switchback or just one tight turn? I would think you are going to have to do at least 2 point turns most times? I am not that experiencesd off road either. 35s no lockers, auto, max tow.
Just one tight turn. There are some super tight turns on places like Imogene Pass that require 2-3 points (particularly in a Gladiator instead of 2-door Wrangler) but I'm referring to places that a rig like yours could do in one normal tight turn.
 

AZCooWhip

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If you have a front locker make sure it is unlocked when you make the turns. It will help but not eliminate that bind up of the steering u-joints. Steep docents with switchbacks, I always use 4-low.
This.

Be familiar with this though. Have a 15mm handy.

Jeep Gladiator Steep Downhill w/Switchbacks in 4-Lo 1636597293171
 

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AZCooWhip

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Front locker not the issue. I do have one but rarely engage it. I *do* often have the sway bar disconnected for smoother travel but that shouldn't be an issue.
Roger that. I’m same. I very rarely use lockers unless I absolutely have too. More of a 2 foot driver here. Brake and gas. 4WD can be like that and bind.

IF you ever do have it bind and your steering wheel seems to be off center, be familiar with your drag link adjustment. 2 second fix to get wheel back straight.
 

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Roger that. I’m same. I very rarely use lockers unless I absolutely have too. More of a 2 foot driver here. Brake and gas. 4WD can be like that and bind.

IF you ever do have it bind and your steering wheel seems to be off center, be familiar with your drag link adjustment. 2 second fix to get wheel back straight.
More details please? Are you saying loosen your drag link to straighten the steering wheel?
 

JTPatriot

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More details please? Are you saying loosen your drag link to straighten the steering wheel?
If your steering wheel is off center when going straight, you can loosen that pinch bolt and turn the knurled adjuster sleeve and recenter your steering wheel. Quick and easy, just may take a couple of tries to get it where you want it.
 

brianinca

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The longer wheelbase means more wheel deflection is needed for a given turn (tighter turned wheel) and magnifies the wheel speed difference - think of drawing a circle with a compass, the wider the compass, the larger the circle, the more difference to travel distance between front and rear.

It won't hurt anything as long as you're not on nice, sticky, clean asphalt or concrete.

I've wheeled long wheelbase vehicles for a long time, no shame in a five point turn to my mind. It's not some kind of style points deduction.

Thanks all - sounds like I am doing everything right and need to not worry too much about it. In these scenarios I am usually in 4-Lo manual shifting, sitting between 2 and 4 depending on terrain. I don't know why the Gladiator seems like it jerks more, other than that my previous experience was in a 2-door Wrangler that probably didn't need to work as hard to make the turns.



Just one tight turn. There are some super tight turns on places like Imogene Pass that require 2-3 points (particularly in a Gladiator instead of 2-door Wrangler) but I'm referring to places that a rig like yours could do in one normal tight turn.
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