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The 3.6 Tick Bites Trail Recon at 31,000 Miles

Stan H

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Shift Auto and Off-Road, the shop that worked on the Trail Recon Gladiator, posted on Instagram that they were working on another intake cam replacement. I messaged them asking for some more details, and they provided the following info:

1748396765560-q6.jpg
Yeah He is in Warm Climate too.
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Please explain how that impacts this.
Maybe oil viscosity? But if you're in weather hot enough where the "cold" viscosity is affected, you have many bigger problems to worry about - like your eyes boiling.
 
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ShadowsPapa

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Maybe oil viscosity? But if you're in weather hot enough where the "cold" viscosity is affected, you have many bigger problems to worry about - like your eye boiling.
Front number is Winter flow. it matters on "cold starts", too thick and it doesn't flow to things like it should and you run without oil getting where it should be because it's slow, stiff, doesn't flow and pump as well to where it needs to go.

The back number - after the W (in the case of the recommended oil, that's the 20) is considered at 210 degrees.
So, unless your climate is over 210 degrees...........
I'd bet that most of our engines, Maine to Texas, NY to CA, are running similar operating temperatures. Ambient temperature won't matter unless it causes your engine to run hotter than it does here where I am.

I guess my point is - for that back number - your climate doesn't matter - your engine operating temperature does.
If I took my JT down to Dallas on a really hot day and it was running 210 - that's what it does here, depending on the hills and how fast I drive or push it. So really, I have no need to change oil viscosities on the back number.
The front number, yeah - the Winter rating.

Air temperature doesn't matter, engine temperature matters. Unless Texas engines run a whole lot hotter than Iowa engines - it won't matter.
 

ShadowsPapa

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Sounds like the first company to make a viable roller bearing rocker arm retrofit kit will make bank.
It's a brilliant idea, and I wondered why it wasn't being done either by Jeep or someone else, then looked back at how the thing works. Sadly, not enough room.
But if you come up with an idea - RUN with it.

You have this much area to work with to create a roller for the high lift - (in yellow - that's the part that runs on the cam lobe)

Jeep Gladiator The 3.6 Tick Bites Trail Recon at 31,000 Miles 1748404858583-64
 

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Maybe oil viscosity? But if you're in weather hot enough where the "cold" viscosity is affected, you have many bigger problems to worry about - like your eye boiling.
Front number is Winter flow. it matters on "cold starts", too thick and it doesn't flow to things like it should and you run without oil getting where it should be because it's slow, stiff, doesn't flow and pump as well to where it needs to go.

The back number - after the W (in the case of the recommended oil, that's the 20) is considered at 210 degrees.
So, unless your climate is over 210 degrees...........
I'd bet that most of our engines, Maine to Texas, NY to CA, are running similar operating temperatures. Ambient temperature won't matter unless it causes your engine to run hotter than it does here where I am.

I guess my point is - for that back number - your climate doesn't matter - your engine operating temperature does.
If I took my JT down to Dallas on a really hot day and it was running 210 - that's what it does here, depending on the hills and how fast I drive or push it. So really, I have no need to change oil viscosities on the back number.
The front number, yeah - the Winter rating.

Air temperature doesn't matter, engine temperature matters. Unless Texas engines run a whole lot hotter than Iowa engines - it won't matter.
Yep...from a 20 degree day in Indiana to 100+ in the southwest, they stay in the same range. 224 is the highest I've seen and I've seen that in every condition. I also saw 195 in the desert crawling with the AC on. All running 0w20.

People don't understand that the engine has a cooling system.

And the flash point of any decent 0w20 oil is north of 400 degrees. Some higher than most 30 weights. The previous formulation of Mobil 1 EP 0w20 was higher than ANY mass market 30 weight.
 

Stan H

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It's a brilliant idea, and I wondered why it wasn't being done either by Jeep or someone else, then looked back at how the thing works. Sadly, not enough room.
But if you come up with an idea - RUN with it.

You have this much area to work with to create a roller for the high lift - (in yellow - that's the part that runs on the cam lobe)

1748404858583-64.webp
In my opinion that yellow part either needs a roller or the high lobe needs a roller but that was a flaw to begin with . It's the material that maybe needs changed . Maybe titanium or ceramic?? Then the yellow portion would not rub in . Or it could be the angle of the cut isnt just right on all of them .
It may simply be a case of quality control.
 
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Stan H

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Please explain how that impacts this.
Sand & Dust . The area that dude runs in is full of silica . Super fine silica . Maybe its a filtration issue . That's what I was thinking . Heat I dont believe is the factor because once hot the oil behaves like a 20 weight regardless. And no climate on planet earth is 200+ degrees
 

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I wonder how much power we would lose if high lift mode was deactivated entirely. Or maybe starting it at higher RPM so it gets less use.
 

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Stan H

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I wonder how much power we would lose if high lift mode was deactivated entirely. Or maybe starting it at higher RPM so it gets less use.
I'd say alot the HP on these lotors dont even kick in till the high lift portion is involved .
Well with that said the HP comes from a shift in timing and higher lift . Which is how it gains its Fuel economy..soooo removing that would make it run horrible.
If the cam was set up like an old style engine the power curve would be drastically different.

Maximum HP: 285 HP at 6,350 RPM
Maximum Torque: 269 lb-ft at 4,175 – 4,800 RPM
 
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jav_eee

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Unless Texas engines run a whole lot hotter than Iowa engines - it won't matter.
i'm usually at 217 to 225 while doing 70 on the highway lately. Average daily temps have been around 100 here in deep south Texas.
 

ShadowsPapa

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i'm usually at 217 to 225 while doing 70 on the highway lately. Average daily temps have been around 100 here in deep south Texas.
You sort of made my point ....I see that, too, on extended high speed runs when it's summer. I can see 220 very easily on the interstate hills.
You aren't seeing any engine temp much different than here. And it's about engine and oil temps, not what the weather gal says.
Your temps are fine, not high all. Typical range is into 220, and you are just there. That's not hot at all.
Snow plow on, I see 225 in the dead of winter.
 

ShadowsPapa

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I wonder how much power we would lose if high lift mode was deactivated entirely. Or maybe starting it at higher RPM so it gets less use.
And people bitch now about lack of power!
I'm into that 3,000-4,500 range pretty much daily just in our normal traffic, hills, and entrance ramps. Yesterday to get up a ramp and up to speed I was just below redline, otherwise you don't get in (or up that hill)
 

Stan H

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And people bitch now about lack of power!
I'm into that 3,000-4,500 range pretty much daily just in our normal traffic, hills, and entrance ramps. Yesterday to get up a ramp and up to speed I was just below redline, otherwise you don't get in (or up that hill)
I find myself agreeing yet again. I think there is ample power in the 3.6L not overly abundant but ample. A Jeep is desired with gearing in mind.
In my Rubicon for example with a 4:1 transfer case I dont care how big a motor you got it wouldn't make a bit of difference. You can only go so fast 25mph I think it says .
Additionally I like the weight of the 3.6L I have had 2 diesel full size trucks and they was as worthless as tit's on a boar hog in most any off road situation and sunk like a rock in soft material.
The 3.6L is light literally weighs 400 pounds. So it stays on top of material much much better..
3 cheers for the small but mighty 3.6L Pentastar V6 .
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