Time to spend and wrench. Are the Rubicon T case and rear hot swappable, plug and play with existing 23 JT MT

[Uparms]

Time to spend and wrench. Are the Rubicon T case and rear E-locker diff, hot swappable, plug and play with existing 23 JT Max Tow? Auto, gas.

No drive shaft or d-shaft connector ( u joints) changes??? No T-case shifter linkage changes?

I know I will have to do some confirmations with the ordering vendors, but wanted to hear from smart people.

Thanks for your help. 23 JT, Max Tow.

Don't suggest I buy a rubicon. Thanks.

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[jshouse1]

At a minimum you'd need transfer case module and reprogramming. Not sure past that.

 

[Josh00333]

For the T Case, I think***** all you have to do is tell the computer the new ratio. A Tazer can do that.

For the rear end, sorta is the answer. Yes you can swap them out the Max and Rubi use the same axle. However getting the E-locker to work and show up on the dash with all that is a pita. It's possible, but a lot goes on.

To be blunt it would be easier to simply swap out the limited slip for an E-locker or Air locker than go through it.

That said you would probably get better over all performance leaving the limited and adding a front locker.

What's the details of the swap? Free parts just want to?
Crashed/Damaged Max and donation parts from a Rubi?

If your pulling dash parts from the Rubi then you can get the controller for the lockers. But still have a lot of stuff to do to get the lockers to work on the dash.

 

[yoda13]

I am thinking that if you have a tazer, the transfer case is an easy day, but the locker working is a bigger deal. I don’t have a link, but there is a write up here somewhere about somebody putting a Rubi locker in the front of their Mojave. I bet that would be illustrative.

 

[Zachanadandy]

The stupid locker sensor is a known weak point. Mopar sells a 2 wire harness as all you need for it to work is a 12v source. I'd just buy that harness and put in a switch rather than trying to utilize the part that fails anyway.

 

[Uparms]

Buy new, both.

I don't want the elecro tie in, anywhere , especially in the radio, but 1 hot and 1 negative to a switch in the console. Install Rubi switch or use my Aux switches.. Simplicity. Yes I will pot the locker sensor upon install.

I was seeing Rubi whole rears for 2500 new. with gears and lockers. I figured it would be cleaner to swap this way and I could do it.. Local shops are gonna charge 2K min, just rear, to swap in Dana E- Locker.

Reprogram gear ratio is good heads up, thank you. Gotta wonder if that my be )NO from dealers. Some are shying away from after build add on of Mopar electrical parts.


More questions or advice welcome, please.

 

[HooliganActual]

@Uparms

Out of curiosity, why are you looking to do either change? I’m not being a jerk; I guess I’m trying to understand your use case that would drive all of the expense and work required to do this.

Here’s why I ask: currently, I own 3 Rubicons (2 JKU’s and a JT) and I wheel a lot out here in the western states. I can honestly say that unless I am actually crawling in the rocks, 4Lo is actually too low. When we are out on the trails, I almost wish I had the 2.72 in 4Lo going down the trails that aren’t actually crawling trails because I could go faster in 4Lo. It may “sound” counterintuitive but I have always felt like the 4:1 T-case is too slow in 4Lo and too fast in 4Hi when riding trails. Looks like you are back east, I would think that the T-case you have now would be optimal for trails.

Regarding the rear locker, I know you’ve cited that the cost to have a shop install a Dana E-locker is not that far off of the cost of purchasing an axle that is already capable; but I’ll offer a thought from 40 years of wheeling Jeeps: if my Jeep didn’t come with a locker and I had to add one, I would go with an ARB style air locker based on my use case. I mean, I always air down/up when going on trails, so I always have a compressor. Now the compressor can have a dual use to run the lockers.

Like I said, just curious…

 

[Josh00333]

Ya if there is nothing wrong, then I would put the $ and effort in 99 other places.

 

[Uparms]

@Uparms

Out of curiosity, why are you looking to do either change? I’m not being a jerk; I guess I’m trying to understand your use case that would drive all of the expense and work required to do this.

Here’s why I ask: currently, I own 3 Rubicons (2 JKU’s and a JT) and I wheel a lot out here in the western states. I can honestly say that unless I am actually crawling in the rocks, 4Lo is actually too low. When we are out on the trails, I almost wish I had the 2.72 in 4Lo going down the trails that aren’t actually crawling trails because I could go faster in 4Lo. It may “sound” counterintuitive but I have always felt like the 4:1 T-case is too slow in 4Lo and too fast in 4Hi when riding trails. Looks like you are back east, I would think that the T-case you have now would be optimal for trails.

Regarding the rear locker, I know you’ve cited that the cost to have a shop install a Dana E-locker is not that far off of the cost of purchasing an axle that is already capable; but I’ll offer a thought from 40 years of wheeling Jeeps: if my Jeep didn’t come with a locker and I had to add one, I would go with an ARB style air locker based on my use case. I mean, I always air down/up when going on trails, so I always have a compressor. Now the compressor can have a dual use to run the lockers.

Like I said, just curious…

Good advice on the T-Case. Not much crawling but I do not want to go to Moab, ( and a few other states/off -road systems) without a rear locker. I am leaning towards an E-Locker. Basic simple factory parts. No can-bus or display tie-ins. May do the same in the front.

 

[ALT2870]

I personally don't see the reason to change transfer cases, you already have the Rubicon axles, just missing the lockers. HOWEVER, the Max Tow does have a LSD in the rear and depending on who you are, some say it's as good if not better then the locker. I have a Max Tow and done numerous Colorado trails including rocky bits no problem. I will be putting a locker in the front next year but more then happy with the LSD. You shouldn't need a locker for Moab unless you are going to hit crazy trails.

 

[HooliganActual]

Good advice on the T-Case. Not much crawling but I do not want to go to Moab, ( and a few other states/off -road systems) without a rear locker. I am leaning towards an E-Locker. Basic simple factory parts. No can-bus or display tie-ins. May do the same in the front.

I get it. Honestly though, the ARB air lockers would be easier for the same functionality. I believe they would cost less in the long run too. I’m not trying to sway you one way or the other, as I have no dog in the fight, but it sure seems like an axle swap is way more complex than installing air lockers. I know that the air lockers aren’t “factory” and I get that if that’s what you want, but I would wager based on reviews, forum threads and the like, that the air lockers would be more worry free and durable than the problem prone factory e-lockers.

As a few others have suggested, the LSD is a solid bit of kit. You’d be better served to put the money into a front locker (which you may have already said you intend to do). Having wheeled all over the states for 40 years, having a front air locker and a rear LSD is a solid and extremely effective combo.

Heck, I did the Rubicon in the mid 80’s in a slightly lifted CJ-7 on 33’s with no lockers at all. A good winch will get you out of more trouble than lockers will!!

Good luck on your decisions and happy wheeling!!!

Cheers

EDIT: as an afterthought, have you ever watched Matt’s Offroad Recovery on YouTube? He runs Detroit style auto locking diffs (essentially LSD’s front and back) in the Morevair and the Banana and those things go everywhere

 

[Zachanadandy]

I get it. Honestly though, the ARB air lockers would be easier for the same functionality. I believe they would cost less in the long run too. I’m not trying to sway you one way or the other, as I have no dog in the fight, but it sure seems like an axle swap is way more complex than installing air lockers. I know that the air lockers aren’t “factory” and I get that if that’s what you want, but I would wager based on reviews, forum threads and the like, that the air lockers would be more worry free and durable than the problem prone factory e-lockers.

As a few others have suggested, the LSD is a solid bit of kit. You’d be better served to put the money into a front locker (which you may have already said you intend to do). Having wheeled all over the states for 40 years, having a front air locker and a rear LSD is a solid and extremely effective combo.

Heck, I did the Rubicon in the mid 80’s in a slightly lifted CJ-7 on 33’s with no lockers at all. A good winch will get you out of more trouble than lockers will!!

Good luck on your decisions and happy wheeling!!!

Cheers

EDIT: as an afterthought, have you ever watched Matt’s Offroad Recovery on YouTube? He runs Detroit style auto locking diffs (essentially LSD’s front and back) in the Morevair and the Banana and those things go everywhere

A Detroit locker is not a limited slip, it's an actual locker that locks 100% any time power is applied. Great for drifting, terrible for driving on icy or even wet roads. I don't understand how anyone could argue that air is easier than a 12v switch on a vehicle that operates on 12v? Wiring the switch to run the compressor alone is equal to wiring the E-locker switch, and you haven't even started running air lines or installing the compressor. I do agree with others, add the locker up front and keep the lsd in the rear. At that point you're capable of running any trail you're willing to run.

 

[Uparms]

I personally don't see the reason to change transfer cases, you already have the Rubicon axles, just missing the lockers. HOWEVER, the Max Tow does have a LSD in the rear and depending on who you are, some say it's as good if not better then the locker. I have a Max Tow and done numerous Colorado trails including rocky bits no problem. I will be putting a locker in the front next year but more then happy with the LSD. You shouldn't need a locker for Moab unless you are going to hit crazy trails.

Thank you much!!! Good advice.

 

[Uparms]

I get it. Honestly though, the ARB air lockers would be easier for the same functionality. I believe they would cost less in the long run too. I’m not trying to sway you one way or the other, as I have no dog in the fight, but it sure seems like an axle swap is way more complex than installing air lockers. I know that the air lockers aren’t “factory” and I get that if that’s what you want, but I would wager based on reviews, forum threads and the like, that the air lockers would be more worry free and durable than the problem prone factory e-lockers.

As a few others have suggested, the LSD is a solid bit of kit. You’d be better served to put the money into a front locker (which you may have already said you intend to do). Having wheeled all over the states for 40 years, having a front air locker and a rear LSD is a solid and extremely effective combo.

Heck, I did the Rubicon in the mid 80’s in a slightly lifted CJ-7 on 33’s with no lockers at all. A good winch will get you out of more trouble than lockers will!!

Good luck on your decisions and happy wheeling!!!

Cheers

EDIT: as an afterthought, have you ever watched Matt’s Offroad Recovery on YouTube? He runs Detroit style auto locking diffs (essentially LSD’s front and back) in the Morevair and the Banana and those things go everywhere

Love matts ORT and been think in ng about a Detroit for the front.

 

[HooliganActual]

A Detroit locker is not a limited slip, it's an actual locker that locks 100% any time power is applied. Great for drifting, terrible for driving on icy or even wet roads. I don't understand how anyone could argue that air is easier than a 12v switch on a vehicle that operates on 12v? Wiring the switch to run the compressor alone is equal to wiring the E-locker switch, and you haven't even started running air lines or installing the compressor. I do agree with others, add the locker up front and keep the lsd in the rear. At that point you're capable of running any trail you're willing to run.

Thank you for adding to this; but I didn’t say that the Detroit was an LSD, I was trying to draw the comparison that it doesn’t require the driver to do anything which is similar to the LSD as it is “automatic”.

As for adding an air locker and its ease versus a 12V switched device, I won’t argue that either. What I was saying is that if I were adding one and was already planning on using an air compressor (refer back to the use case I was talking about) then I would probably go with an air locker rather than change out an entire axle just to get an e-locker.

Not sure why you want to be argumentative, but I’m not your huckleberry.

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