Toe Adjustment

[j.o.y.ride]

Have my RPM tie rod that I would like to put on and adjust toe temporarily until I can get a full alignment done. But have a question. I know it's 1/8 to 1/4 toe in generally, but measure from the hub or the tire? Tire widths all varying will change the measure at the tire quite a bit when it's that small a delta.

Or is the 1/8 to 1/4 at the tire meant to adjust for the tire outboard from the hub?

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[jac04]

Toe should always be measured from the wheel, ideally after verifying that the wheels run true.

Also, toe is typically specified in degrees, and you will need to do a little geometry to determine what the difference in front & rear measurements should be depending on wheel size. With 17" wheels, you are usually looking at a distance of about 18" apart for your measurements. With a toe-in specification of .20 degrees Total toe (+/-.20 degrees, so 0 to .40 degrees toe-in), you are at about 0" to .125" as measured at the wheels.

 

[j.o.y.ride]

Toe should always be measured from the wheel, ideally after verifying that the wheels run true.

Also, toe is typically specified in degrees, and you will need to do a little geometry to determine what the difference in front & rear measurements should be depending on wheel size. With 17" wheels, you are usually looking at a distance of about 18" apart for your measurements. With a toe-in specification of .20 degrees Total toe (+/-.20 degrees, so 0 to .40 degrees toe-in), you are at about 0" to .125" as measured at the wheels.

Good deal. So since this is measuring at the tire which is going to be about 36" apart front to back is that where the .125 to .250 comes in? Because the measure using tires is elongating it

 

[kevman65]

If you are going to take it in for alignment anyway, measure center to center of the ball joints on OEM bar, set your new bar to this measurement.
This will be close enough to get you to the shop.

 

[j.o.y.ride]

If you are going to take it in for alignment anyway, measure center to center of the ball joints on OEM bar, set your new bar to this measurement.
This will be close enough to get you to the shop.

I'd still prefer to measure after, it could be off right now. Sure it would drive the same before and after but if it's off I'd like to fix it.

 

[jac04]

Good deal. So since this is measuring at the tire which is going to be about 36" apart front to back is that where the .125 to .250 comes in? Because the measure using tires is elongating it

I would not use the tire sidewall or tread itself for any actual measurements. The only way I would use the tire is if you painted a strip down the center, then use a scribe while rotating the tire to scribe a mark in the face of the tread in the painted area. You can then put the vehicle back on the ground and measure between the scribed lines accounting for the distance between the measurements. If 36" between measurements marks, then you are looking at 0" to .25" toe-in.

 

[j.o.y.ride]

I would not use the tire sidewall or tread itself for any actual measurements. The only way I would use the tire is if you painted a strip down the center, then use a scribe while rotating the tire to scribe a mark in the face of the tread in the painted area. You can then put the vehicle back on the ground and measure between the scribed lines accounting for the distance between the measurements. If 36" between measurements marks, then you are looking at 0" to .25" toe-in.

I was going to use some 48" long angle irons that are leveled and centered through the midpoint of the rim then marked off at measure points. If the reading look wacky because of tire variation I would just go with the current measure.

 

[bleda2002]

I mean if you really want to get fancy, take the tires off, put a level on each rotor and then measure like northridge 4x4 did.

 

[jac04]

I was going to use some 48" long angle irons that are leveled and centered through the midpoint of the rim then marked off at measure points. If the reading look wacky because of tire variation I would just go with the current measure.

If the angle irons are resting against the sidewalls of the tire, then you won't get accurate readings. BUT, if all you are doing is getting close enough to bring it to an alignment shop, then you'll be OK for that.

I do my own actual alignments, so I get more precise than most people require.

 

[j.o.y.ride]

After swapping the tie rod I set up the angle irons at level at a height that would allow me to measure front and rear. Rear is 80 +3/8, front is 80 +1/8. So 1/4" toe in on this method. Knowing it was toe in I just left as is. Drives fine.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I would not use the tire sidewall or tread itself for any actual measurements. The only way I would use the tire is if you painted a strip down the center, then use a scribe while rotating the tire to scribe a mark in the face of the tread in the painted area. You can then put the vehicle back on the ground and measure between the scribed lines accounting for the distance between the measurements. If 36" between measurements marks, then you are looking at 0" to .25" toe-in.

Never use sidewalls - you can even see the unevenness of those - there's often a "low spot" on the sidewall, a dip in the side as you turn 'em.

 

[j.o.y.ride]

Never use sidewalls - you can even see the unevenness of those - there's often a "low spot" on the sidewall, a dip in the side as you turn 'em.

k

 

[hjdca]

Have my RPM tie rod that I would like to put on and adjust toe temporarily until I can get a full alignment done. But have a question. I know it's 1/8 to 1/4 toe in generally, but measure from the hub or the tire? Tire widths all varying will change the measure at the tire quite a bit when it's that small a delta.

Or is the 1/8 to 1/4 at the tire meant to adjust for the tire outboard from the hub?

I just did the RPM Steering 2.5 ton drag link and tie rod. Great Kit ! First thing is to do your drag link and make sure the steering wheel is perfectly straight on the fwy.

Then, I strapped two of the straightest 2 x 4s I could find to the wheels and measured front and back. make sure the straps are tight and the wood cannot move - even if bumped, or the wheel turns while it is off... Use a level to make sure both pieces are level when you measure. It came out to 1/16" toe in from the factory at the edge of the 37" tires. When I switched the tie rod, I measured perfectly from ball joint to ball joint a few times, but, it still was off a lot when I installed it. To get the driver's tire looking straight, the steering wheel was off. The tendency is to make the new tie rod too long, no matter how good you measure..... Mine had to be shortened. So, I just remounted my tires with the wood still on them, and remeasured. I was way toe'd out. Once I got the measurements close to 1/16" toe in, the steering wheel was straight when the tires looked straight. After driving it a while, it felt just a tad loose and the steering was just a tad off, so, I went with 1/8" toe in at the wood, and the truck dialed in perfectly.

Note: a 30 degree turn down on the RPM Steering Tie Rod (turn towards the street) gives you about 1/16" additional toe in.

Here are some pics.

 

[j.o.y.ride]

I didn't find ball joint ball joint measurement to be very accurate here. First all the bolts need to be exactly centered. Any slight angle on the joint is going to really throw off a measurement.

Also I know a lot of people measure from the top of the bolt but the factory ones are tapered at the top and RPM are not.

You can somewhat use the bottom of the bolts here, the width of the shafts are about the same if not the same, and the lower you measure any variance from not being centered will be minimized.

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