What did you 3D print today?

[Wolf Island Diver]

I moved the mount to the trail rail for easy access which necessitated making a trail rail backing plate for an M8 nut and a spacer to move the mount further out. I’ll post the trail rail backing plate too. Obviously this is for lightweight items, not PowerTanks, etc. Also, for an uncovered bed it needs to be made from ASA, not PLA, etc.

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[SightsOfIron]

Here it is…

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Very impressive!

 

[SightsOfIron]

Has anyone had a printer shift over, say a centimeter and keep printer? Was printing a tower and about halfway through it shifted to the left slightly and kept printing. The base of the tower had not moved. Not sure if someone knocked it or what? Any ideas?

 

[Wolf Island Diver]

Has anyone had a printer shift over, say a centimeter and keep printer? Was printing a tower and about halfway through it shifted to the left slightly and kept printing. The base of the tower had not moved. Not sure if someone knocked it or what? Any ideas?

What printer? I haven’t had that happen. It could be a glitch in the gcode. I would take another look at the slice. I’ve had plenty of badly designed objects that I’ve found and are hard to print well. I’ve had to fix things in Fusion. Are you also sure that object itself didn’t shift? I’ve had that happen a few times of adhesion wasn’t good. I love my textured PEI plate but really tall prints can be an issue especially with generic PLA. Adding brim or a raft or support can help. I guess the belt could also have slipped but that would probably continue to happen and be really noticeable. I would think that would be fairly catastrophic.

I’ve had my Bambu P1P (soon to be P1S) print really roughly on a tall circle (tumbler holder). I think it was a combination of speed causing vibrations and propagating errors in the circular print. But narrow objects with a lot of infill was the primary issue. Printing the same object in draft has zero issues. I’m new to this, but I’m finding that on quality, strength and infill settings, less is more. I’m finding my draft prints on the things I’m designing like that knob wrench to be weirdly light yet still almost production strength. I printed a solid one and it felt good but that’s a total waste of filament. Also the 100% infill version didn’t print well.

You can cut objects in the slicer and make the sections separate objects and assign different settings to those objects while still connected. For example a tall round hollow tower with a square base might benefit from concentric infill on the tower section and grid on the base. You can make that happen by splitting the object. On my tumbler holder trying to do 50% grid infill on a 4mm thick 110mm diameter circle is just too much and completely unnecessary. That’s why I had issues.

Speed and vibrations are another issue I’m finding. These printers move so fast, they can vibrate themselves and the work piece. I’m installing vibration damping feet today. I also have the stand it sits on anchored to the wall. I’m going to revisit that and more substantially secure it. I know the Bambu slicer allows you to slow down the printer while it’s printer. I always run first laters at half-speed. This is all for PLA. For anything else, all these issues are worse.

 

[SightsOfIron]

What printer? I haven’t had that happen. It could be a glitch in the gcode. I would take another look at the slice. I’ve had plenty of badly designed objects that I’ve found and are hard to print well. I’ve had to fix things in Fusion. Are you also sure that object itself didn’t shift? I’ve had that happen a few times of adhesion wasn’t good. I love my textured PEI plate but really tall prints can be an issue especially with generic PLA. Adding brim or a raft or support can help. I guess the belt could also have slipped but that would probably continue to happen and be really noticeable. I would think that would be fairly catastrophic.

I’ve had my Bambu P1P (soon to be P1S) print really roughly on a tall circle (tumbler holder). I think it was a combination of speed causing vibrations and propagating errors in the circular print. But narrow objects with a lot of infill was the primary issue. Printing the same object in draft has zero issues. I’m new to this, but I’m finding that on quality, strength and infill settings, less is more. I’m finding my draft prints on the things I’m designing like that knob wrench to be weirdly light yet still almost production strength. I printed a solid one and it felt good but that’s a total waste of filament. Also the 100% infill version didn’t print well.

You can cut objects in the slicer and make the sections separate objects and assign different settings to those objects while still connected. For example a tall round hollow tower with a square base might benefit from concentric infill on the tower section and grid on the base. You can make that happen by splitting the object. On my tumbler holder trying to do 50% grid infill on a 4mm thick 110mm diameter circle is just too much and completely unnecessary. That’s why I had issues.

Speed and vibrations are another issue I’m finding. These printers move so fast, they can vibrate themselves and the work piece. I’m installing vibration damping feet today. I also have the stand it sits on anchored to the wall. I’m going to revisit that and more substantially secure it. I know the Bambu slicer allows you to slow down the printer while it’s printer. I always run first laters at half-speed. This is all for PLA. For anything else, all these issues are worse.

ITS A Prusa MK4. I am hoping I found the issue though, the files i uploaded were formatted for a different model. Reprinting now but will watch it closely. We have "damper feet" install on ours but they are OEM so upgraded ones might not hurt.

 

[SightsOfIron]

also....the issue i had is called layer shift. There are plenty of reasons it can happen so we'll see how the reprint goes.

 

[Wolf Island Diver]

ITS A Prusa MK4. I am hoping I found the issue though, the files i uploaded were formatted for a different model. Reprinting now but will watch it closely. We have "damper feet" install on ours but they are OEM so upgraded ones might not hurt.

I just ordered some vibration damping washing machine feet and printed an adapter (I love 3d printing, lol?). I realized that I’ve only been printing in normal and not “sport” or “ludicrous”. I can’t imagine printing faster. I’d have to bolt this thing to a concrete slab.

 

[Wolf Island Diver]

also....the issue i had is called layer shift. There are plenty of reasons it can happen so we'll see how the reprint goes.

Yeah, I’m new to this. I took this thing out of the box and started making stuff. I’d say about 95% of the prints have been flawless. I’ve yet to break out the glue stick. I steered clear of 3d printing because I really am only interested in making stuff and not working on printers as its own hobby. Friends and work colleagues I talked to described all these issues and I didn’t want another thing to have to fix all the time. Then I did some research a few months ago and saw that things in the space have really evolved a lot mainly between Prusa and Bambu. My issues have mostly been a function of a dirty (skin oil) on the plate, easily solved with dish soap. But I keep researching all these print issues and slicer settings as I refine my prints. The big issue I have now is this increasing backlog of stuff to print. I feel like I need a second printer.

 

[SightsOfIron]

Yeah, I’m new to this. I took this thing out of the box and started making stuff. I’d say about 95% of the prints have been flawless. I’ve yet to break out the glue stick. I steered clear of 3d printing because I really am only interested in making stuff and not working on printers as its own hobby. Friends and work colleagues I talked to described all these issues and I didn’t want another thing to have to fix all the time. Then I did some research a few months ago and saw that things in the space have really evolved a lot mainly between Prusa and Bambu. My issues have mostly been a function of a dirty (skin oil) on the plate, easily solved with dish soap. But I keep researching all these print issues and slicer settings as I refine my prints. The big issue I have now is this increasing backlog of stuff to print. I feel like I need a second printer.

i've had zero problems with alcohol wipes too for cleaning the plates.

 

[SightsOfIron]

Ran this little guy while working the main project.

 

[Wolf Island Diver]

Made a 2 way Railblaza star compatible cup holder for my Yeti. Polymaker Lime Green is identical to Yeti chartreuse. Currently printing a female Railblaza/B Ram ball adapter.

 

[Wolf Island Diver]

Railblaza to Ram adapter I created in fusion:

 

[SightsOfIron]

not sure why there is a small rift in the pot, i printed 2 separately and they both had identical cracks. I'll just turn the cracks to face the wall but still odd.

 

[SightsOfIron]

going though a bust phase right now with more on the way

 

[Wolf Island Diver]

I’ve added an extrusion to the knob tool to handle the tightening knob on Ram mount “B” size socket arms. This is probably the last thing I could possibly fit on this tool. I’m going to do a write up for Printables or some other site.

I’ve also got a little more work to do on my replacement key fob remix before I post that.

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