What did you do TO your Gladiator today? [ADMIN WARNING: NO POLITICS, NO GUN TALK]

[JustAGuyCalledChris]

I swapped out a soft rollup tonneau for a hard tri fold. Not a big thing but I’ve always preferred the tri folds….and it was free so winner winner!

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[3ffi3nd]

I swapped out a soft rollup tonneau for a hard tri fold. Not a big thing but I’ve always preferred the tri folds….and it was free so winner winner!

Does this work with the trail rails?

 

[22EcoDs]

Letting her breath…

What model did you go with ?

 

[WILDHOBO]

I swapped out a soft rollup tonneau for a hard tri fold. Not a big thing but I’ve always preferred the tri folds….and it was free so winner winner!

…chicken dinner.

 

[JustAGuyCalledChris]

Does this work with the trail rails?

With or without. Had 2 sets of mounting brackets.

 

[JeepOfTheseus]

I was thinking of going with that when I had my old JT. If it’s not too much trouble, could you give a quick review after a road test? I’d like to know if you can feel a noticeable difference and is it worth the price. I know price is totally what you can afford, but you know what saying…..hopefully.
i was also concerned with clearance issues. That actuator looks like it will take up some space.

@Puch here you go: https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/...ersmarts-yeti-xd-tie-rod-and-drag-link.77678/

 

[WILDHOBO]

@Puch here you go: https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/...ersmarts-yeti-xd-tie-rod-and-drag-link.77678/

For me the attenuator was absolutely worth it. I started off wanting spare ends and a middle for trail breakage. When I found out about the attenuator, it was only a bit more to make my existing middle section the spare. I immediately noticed a difference, especially with wheel minor shimmy when hitting bumps. It almost entirely eliminated it. It’ll never be gone with a solid axle, but it’s almost gone.

 

[starrskream]

Added a front hood protector. Cleaned it up and went for a drive.

 

[mx5red]

I swapped out the JKS 3” lift springs for Teraflex 3.5” HD (Outback) springs. I left the 1/2” spacer that was already installed. Spring compressors made this pretty easy. I was able to start and finish in 3 hours. I adjusted the drag link for the few degrees the wheel was off center. It’s clear that the old springs weren’t handling the weight added when I modified the bumper, and the heavier winch added last year. It was obvious when I realized it added just over 2” between the tire and fender flare.

I’ll need to lengthen the front control arms a hair to move the axle back forward a bit. But it was fine to finish for the day. It drives fine and tracks straight. I’m sure the track bar needs a tiny amount of lengthening, but I’ll do that and the control arms another day. The axle is not noticeably off center, but I’m sure it’s a 1/2” off or so. Sitting on the ground the springs aren’t that much longer, but they support the weight better.

The first two pictures are of the old springs, prior to and during removal.

If organic, free range, and cooked with some imagination, I’ll happily eat some crow meat for @Jems007. I initially resisted his suggestion that my front springs weren’t cutting the mustard anymore. He was correct

I believe JKS are some of the softest springs available.

 

[Shibbyjeep]

Does this work with the trail rails?

Does the third panel flip up? Looks like there is no hinge at the back.

 

[Wat Dog]

What model did you go with ?

I went with the pro guard 7. It was the only one that was dyno tested, showing improved horsepower and torque. I’ll add that I’ve Ben tracking about 1-2 mpg better mileage as well

 

[WILDHOBO]

I believe JKS are some of the softest springs available.

They were fine with my original bumper before I modified it, and when I had an evo 12 winch. Once I added more steel to the bumper and put on the Zeon, it seems they weren’t winning anymore.

 

[Jobofly]

I installed Loyo LED turn signal and DRL. They look really good!

 

[WILDHOBO]

I swapped out the JKS 3” lift springs for Teraflex 3.5” HD (Outback) springs. I left the 1/2” spacer that was already installed. Spring compressors made this pretty easy. I was able to start and finish in 3 hours. I adjusted the drag link for the few degrees the wheel was off center. It’s clear that the old springs weren’t handling the weight added when I modified the bumper, and the heavier winch added last year. It was obvious when I realized it added just over 2” between the tire and fender flare.

I’ll need to lengthen the front control arms a hair to move the axle back forward a bit. But it was fine to finish for the day. It drives fine and tracks straight. I’m sure the track bar needs a tiny amount of lengthening, but I’ll do that and the control arms another day. The axle is not noticeably off center, but I’m sure it’s a 1/2” off or so. Sitting on the ground the springs aren’t that much longer, but they support the weight better.

The first two pictures are of the old springs, prior to and during removal.

If organic, free range, and cooked with some imagination, I’ll happily eat some crow meat for @Jems007. I initially resisted his suggestion that my front springs weren’t cutting the mustard anymore. He was correct

I realized I didn’t take any pictures of the springs with it back together. I also measured axle centering today, granted not on perfectly level ground, but pretty close. It was within 1/16” between the sides. So it must have been off before. Hilarious that I might have adjusted the axle position for the better with different springs.

 

[KC_H]

So electrically this is the same as disconnecting and taping off the ESS negative cable (from the starter battery), moving the ESS positive to the starter positive and removing fuse #42...

More of a statement. I think ultimately the proper way to do it is to remove the ESS aux battery and tape off both pos and neg wires and leave them in the empty box. Then put a jumper between N1 and N2, remove fuse 42 then it is easily reversible... Then there are no taped off battery cable next to the starter battery etc...

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