What did you do TO your Gladiator today? [ADMIN WARNING: NO POLITICS, NO GUN TALK]

[Janster]

@Janster I like the Method 305's but the center caps I had issues breaking them off while offroading. I broke 1 replaced it, broke another weeks later replaced it, the 3rd time I broke one replaced them with the low profile center caps. No issues after. I should have replaced with the low profile caps after the first one broke, slow learner I guess.

Thanks for the heads up! They do stick out a bit... My husand actually likes the 'cone' look.
We don't do the offroad thing, so chances are....we won't break 'em.
I like the flush mount look....
Lookin' good!

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[bill61]

Finally got the Method 305’s installed after sitting in the basement since the holidays (they were on sale).
Method 305’s with my stock OEM 33’s.
17” x 8.5” +25 backspacing
No poke

Thank you to Mt. Zion Offroad in Dover, PA. They helped me pick an offset that would keep me ‘Pennsylvania Friendly’. Bought the wheels thru them and went back for installation. Install was pricer than most would want - but they were meticulous, took their time to get it done right. They took a test drive to make sure everything was good. They installed the OEM TPMS sensors - they seem to be functioning as expected (knock on wood). Very clean shop and very nice folks.

Looking to add some ‘accents’ …. Have some ideas….
Keepin’ the stock wheels for a while.

Nice. I have a question. Is there a Tire Pressure Sensor in the spare? Did you just get 4 wheels, or 5?

 

[Janster]

Nice. I have a question. Is there a Tire Pressure Sensor in the spare? Did you just get 4 wheels, or 5?

I only bought 4 wheels..... I'm pretty sure (but had to go out and look - it's the wine talking...) there's no sensors in the spare. The TPMS data on the dash only shows the 4 wheels.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

. The TPMS data on the dash only shows the 4 wheels.

That's all it will ever show.
I've run a matching wheel and tire on both of my Gladiators - with TPMS sensors. And if you rotate the 5 like I do, or have a flat and have to use the spare - like I did - you will have only 4 on the dash as the spare isn't sensed. It knows the locations.
I've got a sensor in my spare right now, matching everything, and it will only ever show 4 no matter how I switch them.
I was able to swap on my spare, get the other fixed, and leave the spare in place instead of swapping back.

 

[bill61]

That's all it will ever show.
I've run a matching wheel and tire on both of my Gladiators - with TPMS sensors. And if you rotate the 5 like I do, or have a flat and have to use the spare - like I did - you will have only 4 on the dash as the spare isn't sensed. It knows the locations.
I've got a sensor in my spare right now, matching everything, and it will only ever show 4 no matter how I switch them.
I was able to swap on my spare, get the other fixed, and leave the spare in place instead of swapping back.

But you had to install the tire pressure sensor in the spare, or it had one installed from the factory? I adding a matching spare and wondering if I need to also purchase a pressure sensor.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

But you had to install the tire pressure sensor in the spare, or it had one installed from the factory? I adding a matching spare and wondering if I need to also purchase a pressure sensor.

I bought the sensor and the extra wheel, yes. The wheel came from a forum member, I got sensors the first time around from Benny - allmoparparts dot com - a vendor here.

I'm still looking for an extra wheel for my new JT Mojave X - hoping someone upgrading wheels is selling one at a time...............

 

[bill61]

Yes. Benny is good. I’ve bought a couple things from his site.

 

[MoparToYou]

I added a Smart Cap on our Gladiator Mojave today.

 

[Jaydebe]

Added this to the build page, but I'll add the short version here.

Installed a Jeep Sunrider and OVS Topper. More coming!

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Last year in the middle of all that was going on, I decided to stash the parts I have collected to make the circuit to kill the license plate lights in reverse. I had pretty much everything ready but the pins. I went ahead and bought a ready-made setup and installed it.
I discovered shortly after that the license plate lights were not working at all.
since I've got to start stripping this 22 in prep for a new one in May, I decided to take that out of my truck, and at the same time test just how far I could push myself being under it and getting up and down.
Major mistake - been sick all day since then. I'm sure it's to do with the combination of Meniere's, the lack of middle ear functionality in my left ear and other stuff. I was dizzy and woozy for hours.

But I did find the problem with the license plate lights!
They now work after taking that relay circuit out. I'll build one myself using proper size wire for the terminals and the correct crimper for the sealed terminals.
Looks to me like a combination of trouble -
The wire is too large for the terminals (could be half this size and be more than adequate)
and - likely not the proper crimp tool for sealed connectors.

The center pins aren't even used for the LED license plate lamps so the center two wires are extraneous anyway.
I'll use a very flexible silicone wire and a much smaller gauge.
I couldn't believe when I saw these wires. They just slid right out! One wasn't really even in the pin/connector.

Well, now I know my limits working under the thing - it's going to mean a faster push to clear out my shop enough to get a lift in there.

 

[Alpine Warthog]

Ordered new HD steering, Track Bar and track bar brace from Rusty's offroad. Haven't ordered anything from them since my XJ's lift, and rock rails. It was good stuff back then. Hopefully quality hasn't gone anywhere!

 

[Trauma PA]

Holding up really well! We have been doing some extensive off-road testing of our new Cross Terrain drop down steps for the factory rock rails. As such we’ve been wheeling a good amount and it is every bit as durable as the rest of the factory paint so far.

These are current pictures as of posting, after a few rounds of wheeling and washing.

The ABS material on the snorkel is pretty heavily textured, but it’s reasonably small grain. when painting, I just slightly scuffed it up. From a few feet away or more you can’t really see due to several wet coats of paint and clear. I’ve taken pictures from a few inches to a few feet.

Depending upon your personal preference, I simply just scuffed it up a little bit, but if you wanted to get really intricate, you could sand it down more to remove that texture and make it smooth. If I did it again I might make it smooth?!

Here is the clear I used, really worked well:

https://a.co/d/6ALesMP

What grain sandpaper did you use and any reason you didn’t use the clear coat rattle can that is offered by touchupdirect in their preferred kit?
Thanks again for replying and the additional photos.

 

[JCappy]

Roger that. The first time my Aux batt died I got those Aux Switch warnings, and as the messages warned, I could not use my aux switches for a few minutes after startup But my current issue is that I only have the ESS warning light with no other messages and my aux switches work with the car off. I know there is something else wrong but I'm just in denial, procrastinating about doing the troubleshooting that needs to be done.

Now that my dilemma is out on the interweb forever, I guess I better go get some codes read and figure out what needs replaced....lol

Same here. When I got the aux switch warning it was in fact the aux battery that had gone bad while the main was fine. No other warning lights came on. Dealer replaced under warranty. Only lasted 16 months after purchase. Hope the new one last longer but I'm not holding my breath.

 

[HooliganActual]

Same here. When I got the aux switch warning it was in fact the aux battery that had gone bad while the main was fine. No other warning lights came on. Dealer replaced under warranty. Only lasted 16 months after purchase. Hope the new one last longer but I'm not holding my breath.

Just an update for you and the others that commented @WILDHOBO @ShadowsPapa @Hootbro :

I got codes read yesterday and the only one I was rockin' was P00FD; so today I will be doing some sort of variant of the Aux Battery delete. Now I have a 2020 which means that my negative cable at the main battery terminal is not the same as the for 2021 and up, so I will be mindful of that. BUT I have been watching a lot of YT videos just to get in the right headspace and the majority of them talk about bringing the positive cable from the Aux Battery back up and landing it on the Main Battery positive terminal because there is still a powerwire that goes to the PCR(?). I also see a lot of guys not removing fuse F42 and it not being an issue.

Anyone want to weigh in on those two things?

EDIT: I’m guessing that the guys on YT that are bringing the Aux Batt Positive cable back up to the Main Positive are NOT removing fuse F42 since it sounds like F42 allows Aux Batt voltage sensing to the PCR.

EDIT pt2: F42 pulled, correct negative cable pulled at Main Batt. IBS disconnected from everything for 15 minutes. Reassembled, fired right up, no ESS warning light. Gonna drive the cr@p out of it this week and if no issues I will pull the Aux Batt and all of its wiring out next weekend! But it does appear my forward and reversing cameras don’t work now….

EDIT pt3: Cameras came back after a couple of ignition cycles.

 

[JCappy]

Just an update for you and the others that commented @WILDHOBO @ShadowsPapa @Hootbro :

I got codes read yesterday and the only one I was rockin' was P00FD; so today I will be doing some sort of variant of the Aux Battery delete. Now I have a 2020 which means that my negative cable at the main battery terminal is not the same as the for 2021 and up, so I will be mindful of that. BUT I have been watching a lot of YT videos just to get in the right headspace and the majority of them talk about bringing the positive cable from the Aux Battery back up and landing it on the Main Battery positive terminal because there is still a powerwire that goes to the PCR(?). I also see a lot of guys not removing fuse F42 and it not being an issue.

Anyone want to weigh in on those two things?

Mine is a 2023. I know these trucks are designed for the 2 batteries but I am considering doing the aux delete down the road. I have read a few post about it but not 100% sure how to actually do it properly. I'd rather just deal with one battery. Guess I have more research in my future.

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