What did you do TO your Gladiator today? [ADMIN WARNING: NO POLITICS, NO GUN TALK]

[Stan H]

As much as I was dreading it, I started to tackle the lower passenger ball joint preload problem, which I’m sure I screwed up the first time I installed them. Metalcloak joints. I apparently was dreading it for a good reason. I couldn’t get the knuckle off the upper joint to save my Fing life. I stripped the threads on a pitman puller trying, after the standard tapping method was an utter failure. That split sleeve on the upper joint is the instrument of demons. It just will not let go of that taper. The knuckle moved down with the puller until it stopped on the sleeve flange. And there it stayed. Until I finally got pissed and “took care of it”. Now I need to rebuild the top and bottom joints on that side, after only like 10k miles. This is not @Metalcloak ’s fault whatsoever. It really looks like I had the races in the passenger lower joint out of index, causing that one to not preload correctly. But the removal was just hell. At this point, the knuckle is off, the lower spindle is out of the knuckle, and what’s left of the upper spindle is still there. Nothing I’ve tried as moved it a millimeter. Thankfully…….Man invented cheap beer.

Now here is a trick I have done before take a butane torch and heat around the curve of knuckle and not to much and then that joint should push easier

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[WILDHOBO]

Now here is a trick I have done before take a butane torch and heat around the curve of knuckle and not to much and then that joint should push easier

I’m close. I’m just glad it’s off the Jeep and the C’s are ok.

 

[Stan H]

Another thing that helps and I see you already are doing it is get a near match on the item that pushes or is pounded against to drive it out

 

[WILDHOBO]

Another thing that helps and I see you already are doing it is get a near match on the item that pushes or is pounded against to drive it out

It’s a big vise, and it’s not moving a millimeter. It’s that stupid split sleeve. Dammit!!!!!!

 

[Stan H]

It’s a big vise, and it’s not moving a millimeter. It’s that stupid split sleeve. Dammit!!!!!!

It that knuckle a steel knuckle? Did ypu remove the aluminum ones ? Or was yours a Mojave

 

[Stan H]

Put pressure on it then wack it with a brass hammer

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Arts and Crafts day at the house. Got in some primer DANA covers and threw on a few coats of gloss black high temp engine paint. Saved about $150 for the set buying them primer coated vs. finished on Amazon.

I have to powder coat the shock reservoir relocation brackets for my JT - it would be interesting to PC covers like that.........

 

[WILDHOBO]

It that knuckle a steel knuckle? Did ypu remove the aluminum ones ? Or was yours a Mojave

Yeah. When I installed these ball joints I installed Mohave knuckles. My delicate sensibilities couldn’t handle the right hand drive castings on the Reid knuckles. And I wanted to retain steering stop adjustments.

 

[Stan H]

Yeah. When I installed these ball joints I installed Mohave knuckles. My delicate sensibilities couldn’t handle the right hand drive castings on the Reid knuckles. And I wanted to retain steering stop adjustments.

I say rust has ya I'd go heat and penetrative oil spray immediately after then pressure and a whack ..should move .

 

[WILDHOBO]

I say rust has ya I'd go hear and penetrative oil spray immediately after then pressure and a whack ..should move .

Good idea. Tomorrow. Thanks. I’ll report back with whether I’m buying a knuckle or not.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

It’s a big vise, and it’s not moving a millimeter. It’s that stupid split sleeve. Dammit!!!!!!

If dealing with tapered joints, you'd be surprised at what it takes to pop them apart.
I'd rather press apart a straight joint.

 

[WILDHOBO]

If dealing with tapered joints, you'd be surprised at what it takes to pop them apart.
I'd rather press apart a straight joint.

Yep. Spot on. And these stupid split sleeves made of hybrid garbage white metal make it so much worse. With a pitman puller the knuckle moved as the sleeve stayed firmly stuck to the spindle. Until the knuckle found the sleeve flange. Then it was over.

 

[Rusty PW]

As much as I was dreading it, I started to tackle the lower passenger ball joint preload problem, which I’m sure I screwed up the first time I installed them. Metalcloak joints. I apparently was dreading it for a good reason. I couldn’t get the knuckle off the upper joint to save my Fing life. I stripped the threads on a pitman puller trying, after the standard tapping method was an utter failure. That split sleeve on the upper joint is the instrument of demons. It just will not let go of that taper. The knuckle moved down with the puller until it stopped on the sleeve flange. And there it stayed. Until I finally got pissed and “took care of it”. Now I need to rebuild the top and bottom joints on that side, after only like 10k miles. This is not @Metalcloak ’s fault whatsoever. It really looks like I had the races in the passenger lower joint out of index, causing that one to not preload correctly. But the removal was just hell. At this point, the knuckle is off, the lower spindle is out of the knuckle, and what’s left of the upper spindle is still there. Nothing I’ve tried as moved it a millimeter. Thankfully…….Man invented cheap beer.

I feel your pain. I had to use a 4" cut wheel on a die grinder to cut the oem ball joint studs to remove the knuckles on my Power Wagon. Had to do both sides.

 

[BaneKotaKeena]

oil and filter change at 15000 miles. Amsoil change kit.

 

[WILDHOBO]

I feel your pain. I had to use a 4" cut wheel on a die grinder to cut the oem ball joint studs to remove the knuckles on my Power Wagon. Had to do both sides.

Ouch. Yes. That’s pain. I have yet to have that bs tap method work. For future reference, and I didn’t think it would work, a Milwaukee torch sawzall blade cuts through ball joint spindles/studs like melted butter. 10 seconds. I was shocked, but happy I didn’t need to risk starting the garage on fire with my die grinder.

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