What did you do TO your Gladiator today? [ADMIN WARNING: NO POLITICS, NO GUN TALK]

[BlueScapegoat]

I love the function of RCVs but they piss me the fuck off

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[Bandit’s Lair]

They are pretty messy. My whole area down there is all gunked up. Need to get some clean up done on it. Haven’t even tried disassembling those for any reason yet. That’s a nice stout looking knuckle ya got there.

 

[BlueScapegoat]

They are pretty messy. My whole area down there is all gunked up. Need to get some clean up done on it. Haven’t even tried disassembling those for any reason yet. That’s a nice stout looking knuckle ya got there.

The boots are annoying to get on when you install them. The boots SUCK to get off when you remove the shafts. They need removed from their press fit while between the outer knuckle and the axle tube.

I'm trying to reinstall the outer fad shaft now and usually you can just pry down on the end of the shaft to lift the inner end up to slip it into the seal and the fad collar/other shaft but noooooo because the RCV CV join itself bottoms out on the outer knuckle so I need to tear down the fucking fad that I just cleaned and sealed so I can slip a finger in to lift that shaft into place

 

[Bandit’s Lair]

Jeep. Just Empty Every Pocket. And invent new curse words in the process.

 

[TexasAg77]

Completed a 775 mile trip today from Topeka KS to Cleveland TN towing my blue Scrambler on a 15' Featherlite trailer. Cruise was set @ 65 other than when in KC, STL or other large towns on the interstate. Averaged 11.5 or so the entire trip. Handled as well as our Tahoe and actually sat more level and handled the strong S/SE winds all day without any real issues. Pleasantly surprised... Pic is at the Hotel this morning in Paducah KY.... Figure trailer weight at about 5200 or so.

 

[Rusty PW]

The boots are annoying to get on when you install them. The boots SUCK to get off when you remove the shafts. They need removed from their press fit while between the outer knuckle and the axle tube.

I'm trying to reinstall the outer fad shaft now and usually you can just pry down on the end of the shaft to lift the inner end up to slip it into the seal and the fad collar/other shaft but noooooo because the RCV CV join itself bottoms out on the outer knuckle so I need to tear down the fucking fad that I just cleaned and sealed so I can slip a finger in to lift that shaft into place

When putting the RCV back together. Use a zip tie.

 

[Blade1668]

Love the 'manche pic in the profile. This was mine I sold to my friend to make room for my Gladiator back in '21

I miss it but it's nice seeing it when I visit my home state

I wish my Comanche was in that condition.

 

[RandyMc]

I just ordered some @NXTGENAutomotive steps for my Gladiator. I technically only needed a single step for my daughter to get in easy so naturally I ordered two sets so it would be even and look nice.

Did the same thing for the wife, installed one for her, three for balance. It's the only thing I've done to either of my Jeeps she actually liked from the outset.

 

[Blade1668]

Does anyone know if the Willys wheels have same specs as the Mojave wheels? I want some cheap black wheels.

Plasta-Dip works well then can be peeled off or peels off when accidentally hit with pressure washer I did both on mine.

Did the custom dented tailgate mod with my trailer tongue box.

Forgot the tailgate was down when backing up.

Damn sorry for your tailgate. I tried out the bumper on my utility trailer toolbox jockey it around a few days back. Kudos for the tow hook and the plastic rear bumper is better than I thought.

 

[BlueScapegoat]

I've been working on building out a set of tools for keeping in the Jeep so I don't need to repackage tools every time I get ready for a trip. Just hop in the Jeep and go.

Wrenches were on sale a week ago. This weekend Icon sockets and socket sets are 35% off in store, so both the 3/8 and 1/4 no skip sets were $182 total this morning. Not bad!

And got the rear axle back in. I swapped shifts so I work third tonight, trying to decide if I want to keep working and move to the front axle now or go take a nap and tackle it tomorrow.

Oh, and the front antirock showed up today

A lot of being pissed off and throwing shit. I probably just shouldn't work on things after being up all night. Especially after a shitty ass night where I just dealt with thunderstorms and keeping pilots from killing themselves all night. If I wasn't so cheap I'd let somebody else do this stuff but I don't trust other people either.

At least I got the front axle back under it, new antirock in, everything loose except for the hydro ram. I need to check clearance with the truss and the ecodiesel oil pan. Looks tight but I think it'll work. What I'm not confident will work is when I have the engine skid in there.

When putting the RCV back together. Use a zip tie.

That's not helpful to the other RCV bullshit I fought with in particular today but it is a stellar tip.

Although even with the zip tie I find myself having to use two pry bars on the back side of the boot against the axle tube with the hub bolted all the way in. You can't just push it in like they do in the JL/JT specific video. I mean I can lift my 40 up onto my tailgate at over 4 ft solo but can't seem to get a boot on a cv shaft. Doesn't help when it's greasy.

It's great they fit that tight, but I reserve the right for it to piss me off.

::edit::
I also think it's funny they didn't start recommending the zip tie trick until after I bought and installed RCVs on my TJ.. makes me wonder who told them "hey, you know..."

 

[BlueScapegoat]

I wish my Comanche was in that condition.

Rusty floor but I peeled them up and the rails were squeaky clean underneath and it was flawless everywhere else. A really odd rig for minnesota.

 

[Rusty PW]

A lot of being pissed off and throwing shit. I probably just shouldn't work on things after being up all night. Especially after a shitty ass night where I just dealt with thunderstorms and keeping pilots from killing themselves all night. If I wasn't so cheap I'd let somebody else do this stuff but I don't trust other people either.

At least I got the front axle back under it, new antirock in, everything loose except for the hydro ram. I need to check clearance with the truss and the ecodiesel oil pan. Looks tight but I think it'll work. What I'm not confident will work is when I have the engine skid in there.

That's not helpful to the other RCV bullshit I fought with in particular today but it is a stellar tip.

Although even with the zip tie I find myself having to use two pry bars on the back side of the boot against the axle tube with the hub bolted all the way in. You can't just iust push it in like they do in the JL/JT specific video. I mean I can lift my 40 up onto my tailgate at over 4 ft solo but can't seem to get a boot on a cv shaft. Doesn't help when it's greasy.

It's great they fit that tight, but I reserve the right for it to piss me off.

::edit::
I also think it's funny they didn't start recommending the zip tie trick until after I bought and installed RCVs on my TJ.. makes me wonder who told them "hey, you know..."

When I bought and installed my RCV axles for my PW. I got a tool with the axles. It was a flat plate with a cutout that fit between the axle housing and the back of the RCV joint and boot. This didn't allow the joint to move into the opening for the axle. Put the plate into place. Line everything. Protect the end of the joint. Whack the end with a Thor hammer and the outer part of the joint would pop into the boot.

 

[BlueScapegoat]

When I bought and installed my RCV axles for my PW. I got a tool with the axles. It was a flat plate with a cutout that fit between the axle housing and the back of the RCV joint and boot. This didn't allow the joint to move into the opening for the axle. Put the plate into place. Line everything. Protect the end of the joint. Whack the end with a Thor hammer and the outer part of the joint would pop into the boot.

I think I got one of those tools with my TJ as well... I don't remember one with the JT shafts and their instructions don't show the use of one. Would be nice but pry bars worked just as well with the hub bolted in.

 

[Gatorac]

I was intrigued by one of the site vendors "pre-runner" grill light offerings. Did some searching and was able to find some from another vendor available now that snapped in, included a plug and play harness and was about 1/2 price. After throwing a set of flush mount taillights away from the other vendor, I did not feel bad at all not buying from them again....

I did some measuring and with my -12 offset wheels and 12.50 tires, the Jeep is actually wide enough to require the lights. Not that anyone cares in FL.

Having saved money, I did what any respectable Jeep owner would do and promptly spent 2.5 times the savings on some sweet 3.5" Radius Cube Lights. The shape works really well with the Venator bumper fog light openings. Install forthcoming on those.

 

[KX L]

Bottomline is I installed a Fox Steering stabilizer and absolutely love it. So don't waste your time unless you want to read about what an adventure it was for me.

I don't know about you guys but every time I get the "less than an hour to install" I end up taking 3 or more. I decided I needed to get a steering stabilizer as the truck is now over 30K miles and I put on 35" tires on the stock rims. So I bought the simplest FOX stabilizer.

So I get under the truck only to find my 17mm socket is too small and there is no room to get a regular size wrench up there on the top of the bolt that connects vertically on the passenger side or in the small gap for the bolt that is horizontally mounted in the center.

Now many of you guys already know that the vertical bolt is a carriage bolt and therefore doesn't need a wrench up top and that the horizontal bolt is welded to a short arm that hits part of the suspension to hold it in place for unscrewing/screwing the bolt. I sure didn't know that.

So off to the NAPA store I go. Hundred bucks later I have an 18 & 19mm socket and this nifty stubby wrench set with common SAE and Metric wrenches.

At least $60 more than I could get the same thing at Harbor Freight, Home Depot, or Lowes. But none of that is on Big Pine Key so I'd rather get the things I need now than waste a couple of hours driving to find them.

Of course before I got under the truck I looked up the torque specs--depending on the source it ranged from 50-60 ftlbs.

Even as hobbled as I am that won't be a problem to get off...right?

Sprayed some WD40 on both sides of the 2 bolts, waited ten minutes, and then using my new 18mm socket and my breaker bar on the verticle carriage bolt I gave it a pull---not a chance. So that just means I have to pull harder. Nope. F@#K! So I maneuver my broken body under the truck so my feet are against the passenger wheel and put every bit of my back and arms into it. Nope. More WD-40 and go to the horizontal bolt.

Needless to say it's the exact same thing.

A third coat of WD-40 on both bolts and get the burly younger guy from next door. This will definitely work right? Yeah, no. Guy about popped a blood vessel on both before giving up.

F*%k me running! I'll be damned it I pay someone to do this for me. 4th coat of WD-40. Now I'm hammering on the breaker bar, nope---but I was using a soft headed mallet. Have no idea if a solid hammer would be better.

Give up and go get a cold Coke. Then I do the thing with my feet against the tire and it barely moves---but we all know that means that somabitch will come off! Took over 5 minutes to get that damn bolt off because it needed about 10 hard pulls before I even felt comfortable putting the ratchet on the socket.

Same same on the other bolt--finally got it to move and then it only took a couple of more with the breaker bar before moving to the socket wrench.

Thanks to the forum and you smart guys I knew to compress the Fox stabilizer and use zip ties to hold it compressed until it was time to mount the second bolt. Then cut the zip tie to let the stabilizer slowly open and when it was at the right spot shove the bolt through. Because one bushing needed to be horizontal and the other vertical I had to use masking tape to hold the zip ties on each end.

The instructions with the stabilizer were for shocks, one con for sure against FOX. The online Fox site said to use the stock hardware---but the stabilizer did come with the obligatory sticker and a long bolt. So I use the stock hardware and the vertical bolt slipped right in to where the threads were just touching the end of the stabilizer. I then spent at least 15 minutes screwing around trying line up the 4 sides of the carriage bolt so it would go all the way through.

DUMMY! So that's why they sent the other bolt---the Fox set up couldn't use the carriage bolt. Well at least I saved myself the embarrassment of someone else pointing it out to me.

Got both bolts in and broke out my SnapOn digital torque wrench and now they're torqued correctly at 55FtLbs. Know I'll need to check the torque in a couple of weeks---especially on the reused bolt.

Finally installed. The difference is amazing. The steering feels really tight and I'm not having to constantly correct it---just point and go. So well worth the ass pain.

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