MeanGreen
Well-Known Member
“What year is your Gladiator?”Well, Pulled the trigger. Upgraded the 2020 satin black grille to the Color matched 2024.![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
Looks good! I want to get that grille too!
Sponsored
“What year is your Gladiator?”Well, Pulled the trigger. Upgraded the 2020 satin black grille to the Color matched 2024.![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
“What year is your Gladiator?”
![]()
Looks good! I want to get that grille too!
No. This eliminate the need to connect and disconnect the SG bypass cable when connecting a bluetooth scanner like Alfaobd, Jscan etc.That’s outstanding. So the switch essentially disables a tazer or similar, and puts it back to stock, without removal? I’d love to see that wiring diagram.
I’m not using a Tazer. It’s to temporary bypass the SGM when connecting my Alfaobd bluetooth scanner into the factory obd port, while retaining SGM function during normal operation.I guess I'm confused, why do you need to unplug the Tazer to use Jscan?
I don’t know man. Materials alone are around $60+, not including labor soldering, crimping etc. Though, i did used some quality relays. I’m from Cali so my rate might be too high lol. Happy to provide the wiring and terminal pinout diagram though.Im thinking these would sell well on this forum, and I'll be first inline.
Not that big of a deal. I mostly leave my tazer unplugged with the factory wiring in place.No. This eliminate the need to connect and disconnect the SG bypass cable when connecting a bluetooth scanner like Alfaobd, Jscan etc.
The Tazer take place of the SGM, it’ll require a different wiring method to be able to switches between the Tazer and SGM. I can sketch up a wiring diagram for you if that’s what you wanted to achieve.
Now time for leg dayMetal Cloak 3.5” Dual Rate lift with Metwl Cloak drive shaft, Durospring bump stops, spring silencers, Rocksport Red shocks and lower rear control arm skids
![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
Yup. I’m debating just doing 35” for now, or staying on the 33” until I can get the funds for new rims and wheels (about 5500CAD for MR703s and Wildpeak 37s).Now time for leg day
I need ti learn how ti do basic body work. I’m impressed.Repaired the body damage from where I ripped a flush mount tail light out on the gatekeeper at Daniel in Uwharrie about a month ago. And installed my replacement tail that came in today. No more mismatched tails.
Also adjusted my tube doors a tad so they latch better/easier
![]()
![]()
![]()
Find a door or quarter panel at a junkyard. That’s pretty much how I learned the basics. Figuring out how much tappity tap tap tap sections need and what it feels like is the biggest thing.I need ti learn how ti do basic body work. I’m impressed.
Great idea. Thanks. I don’t want to screw up my project. Body work is the part I’m nervous about.Find a door or quarter panel at a junkyard. That’s pretty much how I learned the basics. Figuring out how much tappity tap tap tap sections need and what it feels like is the biggest thing.
I hated my factory optioned 33" wildpeak, too loud and annoying for a smaller tire. But id save and do it once and get 37s for sure.Yup. I’m debating just doing 35” for now, or staying on the 33” until I can get the funds for new rims and wheels (about 5500CAD for MR703s and Wildpeak 37s).