What gear oil is good?

[Daniel.cox8]

Sweet !!!! Man I did not know where to find that info I was googling all over thanks everyone one for the big help in this. I'm used to my jeep jk rubi. Everyone thank you for all the info. To many axles choices now. This has been a big help. Now need to figure out how to remove the rear bumper

Sponsored

 

[Texops]

WXman is right all Gladiators have M210 front & M220 rear Axles Rubicon & Max tow get 1.5" wider . on the top of your axle you should have a tag with info. bottom right corner has M220 or M210 on it .

 

[ShadowsPapa]

WXman is right all Gladiators have M210 front & M220 rear Axles Rubicon & Max tow get 1.5" wider . on the top of your axle you should have a tag with info. bottom right corner has M220 or M210 on it .

I looked with a flashlight and wasn't able to find any axle ID on either of my axles. Springs, links and other parts, yeah, never found the axle tags, though.
Maybe when - or IF - it ever warms up, I'll look again, not that it's important, but I like to document all of my vehicles pretty thoroughly.

 

[Texops]

I looked with a flashlight and wasn't able to find any axle ID on either of my axles. Springs, links and other parts, yeah, never found the axle tags, though.
Maybe when - or IF - it ever warms up, I'll look again, not that it's important, but I like to document all of my vehicles pretty thoroughly.

it was a paper sticker i'll see if I can find a pic I took of it

 

[ShadowsPapa]

it was a paper sticker i'll see if I can find a pic I took of it

Thanks - sort of what I thought since all the others are sort of a plastic or paper.

I found the part number tags on my Javelin springs LOL........you'd think I could find these things on a brand new vehicle ;-)

 

[Texops]

Ok here are my tags on front & rear axles on Overland

 

[Texops]

Here’s my Rubicon springs rear coil tag that i had on my Overland

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Here’s my Rubicon springs rear coil tag that i had on my Overland

My JT Overland has 439 (left) and 440 (right)

When a kind member can, he's going to pick up a set of Rubicon springs I've bought and get them shipped to me.
Likely will use the fronts under my Overland front and the Fox shocks.

 

[Texops]

My JT Overland has 439 (left) and 440 (right)

When a kind member can, he's going to pick up a set of Rubicon springs I've bought and get them shipped to me.
Likely will use the fronts under my Overland front and the Fox shocks.

my Overland springs where 440 & 441

 

[ShadowsPapa]

my Overland springs where 440 & 441

I find the differences interesting - perhaps due to options?

 

[Texops]

I find the differences interesting - perhaps due to options?

yeah a lot of different options so a lot of different springs

 

[wiredup60]

Reopening an old thread. I just did a swap to 488's, and would like to change the gear oil at 500 miles from swap. I thought we should NOT use synthetic oil, is that true? Also would like to DIY this, any advice or videos on how to do the job? thx

 

[whiteglad]

Especially with brand new gears, I would use the best lube to help prevent scuffing. Drive very easy, not over 50 mph (with "normal" ratios, less with steep ratios) for the first 50+ miles and then up to 60, again easy, with gentle accel and decel to 500 miles.
The 9" Ford diff is very strong for its size and weight due to an exceptionally steep hypoid angle--the pinion is offset down from the centerline more than other diffs I am aware of. That offset does increase friction and likelihood of scuffing, and was the reason GL6 lube classification was developed. I would use Torco 85-140, LE 607 or LE 1605 lube if installing new gears in a 9" rear. I would change it after break in.
The Dana rears have a relatively shallow hypoid angle, with the AdvanTek being probably even less of an angle than traditional Danas to lessen friction and improve mpg. So, they are less finicky than the Ford diff, but still it is a good idea to spend those few $ more and use good lube in our Jeeps.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I've used synthetic lube in all sorts of differentials - limited slip, muscle car, Jeep, Eagle, you name it. Never a problem.
I heard the rumors about synthetic destroying this or that or causing leaks and so on - of course no one could ever give first-hand verified experience that was proven to be the lube, they just repeat what they'd heard.
IF it meets the FCA or other specs then it meets the specs - synthetic or not. That's all I'm concerned about - reducing friction, meeting the specs or BETTER.
I've built a few differentials - mostly classic cars, muscle cars, etc. - but I've also changed lube, seals and so on in other differentials. Never had a problem.

 

[Renegade]

Reopening an old thread. I just did a swap to 488's, and would like to change the gear oil at 500 miles from swap. I thought we should NOT use synthetic oil, is that true? Also would like to DIY this, any advice or videos on how to do the job? thx

I’ll stay out of the oil type debate, but it’s a really easy job. Drain out the old through the drain plug hole, put that plug back in, then put the new oil in the fill hole. Tighten the fill plug, then you’re done.

Sponsored