What plug would plug in to this?

[Mightytalldude]

Fog lights arrived and they are pretty. Color coded wires arrive in 2 days, and still no idea when the connectors will ship.

Sponsored

 

[aglass0fmilk]

Stock wiring harness arrived. Definitely user serviceable with a micro screwdriver and paper clip. Just need to find the pins, but they look like ones I may be able to get at an auto parts store bulk pack. I did break a pin locking sliding clip upon disassembly, but it'll go back together with the two broken locking clips sliding into their channel. I'll have to remove the 16-pin connector when I get this half pinned, and pin it on both 4-pin and 16-pin connector. That 16-pin connector is the trailer wiring harness pigtail that connects to the trailer plug, and license plate. I'll see if I can find that harness part number when I pull it out later in the week. Can I do this easier, absolutely with a t-tap at that main harness connector and do it all within 30 minutes, but it'll expose those two wires to eventual corrosion, as that 16-pin plug is in the rear wheel well, and I want it to look stock.

Edit: I'll also see if the ground terminates for the trailer harness along the frame and ground the fogs there too.

That connector is from Molex, MXP120 Sealed Connector Series. You may be able to get replacement parts for the clips and such online from mouser etc.

The 3D model on Molex's site is a dead-ringer for the one in the catalog page you posted:

https://www.molex.com/molex/products/part-detail/crimp_housings/0349004120

The markings on the back match those in the datasheet rendering:

That may not be the exact part number but it's certainly from that series. Here's the assembly/disassembly guide:

https://www.molex.com/pdm_docs/as/AS-34900-0001-001.pdf

And an overview product specification doc for the MXP120 series: https://www.molex.com/pdm_docs/ps/PS-34900-0001-001.pdf

Seems to be a pretty recent product from Molex unfortunately so it may be harder to find than other connectors that have been on the market longer... at least FCA is using the latest greatest shit!

From those links you should be able to at least get the part numbers for the broken clip, crimp terminals, seals, and other accessories.

I would check Molex's catalog for the other connector as well. FCA likely uses a bunch of connectors from them.

 

[aglass0fmilk]

Double post but:

Also, the connector on the light housing probably conforms to USCAR specs. USCAR is an automotive working group that sets standards for connectors. This is so that manufacturers like FCA, Ford, etc, can collaborate with connector manufacturers and everyone can mutually benefit from interoperability, save tooling costs, etc

EDIT: The connectors are not categorized by pin pitch. It seems to be the different pin sizes. The larger the pin size (1.2mm, 1.5mm...) the more amps the connector is rated for. LED lighting is relatively low amperage so I would look at 1.2mm and 1.5mm connector specs on the site below:

https://www.uscar.org/guest/teams/10/Electrical-Wiring-Component-Applications-Partnership-EWCAP-

And find the appropriate (sealed) 2-way connector. The docs there also detail the different keying/polarization options.

I haven't spent too much time looking but there appears to be a spreadsheet that shows compatible part numbers from the participating connector manufacturers: http://ewcap.uscarteams.org/EWCAP_part_number_list_current.XLS

Might be able to find something compatible there.

Another edit:

If you look at the crimp tools from the connector OEMs you will laugh (typically >$500 for a hand crimp tool). You can find comparable ones on Amazon that do a decent job. Look for ones that have a ratcheting mechanism.

If you're crimping a connector with a crimped-on seal like the 4-way one above, you can probably get by with a crimper intended for Delphi Weatherpack. Weatherpack has been around since the 80's and also has crimped-on seals.

I have a set of crimpers from this brand (IWISS) and they work pretty well:

https://www.amazon.com/IWISS-Crimpi...QQENS5S7WCF&psc=1&refRID=YJWM58MD5QQENS5S7WCF

Hope that helps!

 

[Mightytalldude]

That connector is from Molex, MXP120 Sealed Connector Series. You may be able to get replacement parts for the clips and such online from mouser etc.

The 3D model on Molex's site is a dead-ringer for the one in the catalog page you posted:

https://www.molex.com/molex/products/part-detail/crimp_housings/0349004120

The markings on the back match those in the datasheet rendering:

That may not be the exact part number but it's certainly from that series. Here's the assembly/disassembly guide:

https://www.molex.com/pdm_docs/as/AS-34900-0001-001.pdf

And an overview product specification doc for the MXP120 series: https://www.molex.com/pdm_docs/ps/PS-34900-0001-001.pdf

Seems to be a pretty recent product from Molex unfortunately so it may be harder to find than other connectors that have been on the market longer... at least FCA is using the latest greatest shit!

From those links you should be able to at least get the part numbers for the broken clip, crimp terminals, seals, and other accessories.

I would check Molex's catalog for the other connector as well. FCA likely uses a bunch of connectors from them.

Holy cow, that was awesome info! Have the pins on order now. I looked at the auto parts store this morning and nothing even close. I ordered 12 each. I'll only need 4 each male/female but good to have extras just in case, I break or do more down the road.

 

[Mightytalldude]

I'll borrow the crimper, I know a guy, who is the guy with the crimper, he does things like this for a living, building/testing microchips/circuits and anything electrical. I've helped him with enough home improvement projects over the years, he is sort of obliged to help lol.

 

[Mightytalldude]

Bad news, the wires for this mod aren't here, or at least what I can find on that harness point where they should be. I pulled the harness apart where they should be, and nothing extra. I'll have to go the secondary route and wire them into the aux switches.

 

[smlobx]

I don’t have anything constructive to add other than thanking everyone involved for their sleuthing!

 

[Mightytalldude]

The point where the main harness branches out is on top of the frame. I can see and get to the plug fairly easily, and then started visually tracing the wires from that point back to the connection points. Again 6 go to the trailer harness, with a ground coming back up from the connector and terminating at a body ground above the spare tire, 2 wires for the license plate with a ground on the harness, and 2 still that are in both sides of the plug, but I cannot find their terminating point out of the plug as the harness is taped up and the main harness is at that point.

 

[Mightytalldude]

I need to find the actual JT wiring diagram, not the JL version attached, showing this 16-pin plug so I can verify what those last two wires actually are, and not guess, like I'm doing.

 

[Mightytalldude]

Started wiring everything up tonight getting ready for tomorrow. The fog light connector pigtails come unassembled, requiring some quick assembly. Luckily the parts diagram helped me make sure I put the right wires into the right side of the connector. They're about 12" long, so plenty to play with. They also come with an extra set of pre terminated pins. Crimped the starting connections, heat shrinked each, before wrapping them with friction tape matching factory taping. Since I'm running them up to the aux switches for the time being, I terminated and wrapped about 25' of the power wire. The lights will get grounded right above the spare tire at the body ground there. I just need to get the right size ring terminal tomorrow as I thought I had some, but didn't. Here's the list of things to do tomorrow.

Disconnect the power at the battery
Drop the spare.
Disconnect the trailer harness and the bumper harness.
Remove the rear bumper.
Remove reflectors and replace with the new fog lights.
Starting at the fog lights, work the new power lines back to the harness connector on each side, securing to the existing harness with fir tree zip ties and regular zip ties and then adding a connector at the same location as the bumper wiring harness connector for power and ground.
Reinstall the bumper.
Starting at aux 3 pink/orange wire under the hood, attach connector and heat shrink.
Work power wire down to the frame and follow the main harness, zip tie to existing harness and finalize the rear connection points and finish ground terminal.
Add final connections, heat shrink and finish with friction tape.
Connect both connectors.
Finish last bit of zip ties at connections.
Reconnect battery.
Test with Aux 3 button for correct operation. (Will have to make sure it's programmed correctly to come on only when running)
Replace spare tire, and done!

I followed a new Land Rover Range Rover this morning with heavy fog on my way to work, and it had the rear fog lights, and it makes a ton of difference. I could see the fog lights even when the fog got thick, but would lose the rear tail lights from time to time, so they do what their supposed to do, make a vehicle visible in fog. =)

 

[Mightytalldude]

Installed!

Here's the list of parts you'll need to do this.
Aux switches: if you don't have them optioned for your JT. 82215190AD
Edit: correct foglights:
68338391AA
68338390AA

Connectors:
68137868AC left & right but color coded for the RR
(the plugs cost more than the fog lights)
No need to buy a rear bumper harness
18-20 AWG wires for leads. 25' minimum for running up to the aux pigtail.
Connectors for 18-20 AWG wires.
2 rolls of friction tape
Zip ties 50pk
Fir tree body zip ties 10pk
Shrink tubing.

Drop the spare tire and remove to gain best access.
I ran the wires along the right hand side of the truck along the wiring harness from the aux connections under the hood, zip ties about every 4"-6". I crossed over at the rear wiring harness connectors above the spare tire and terminated them at the same point as the factory bumper connector for easy removal of the bumper if needed. For the bumper, removing it is needed to gain access to everything. 4 nuts and 2 bolts, and it comes right off. Only 3 screws to remove and install the lights. I kept the wiring right along the existing harness and added in the fir tree body zip ties at multiple points between the lights and the existing harness.

Pre work will make your install quicker. Wrapping the lead wires and harness wires with friction tape will take the longest and a helper wouldn't hurt. Routing and zip tie the wires take the second longest, and the actual connections are fairly quick. A ground stud is right above the spare tire. The aux buttons are programmable, but not needed to be reprogrammed. I used #3 pink/orange wire. I'll get a better picture tonight when it's darker so you can see the lights better.

Overall I have about $250 into this. Not a bad mod, that looks factory. I was just hoping to tie into the factory controller. Once I can look at the actual JT wiring harness, I'll see if that's still a possibility.

 

[smlobx]

Thanks!
Can you take a picture at night?

 

[Mightytalldude]

Here's now, still not dark yet, but darker.

 

[Mightytalldude]

Evening shot.

 

[Mightytalldude]

The picture doesn't really capture them well. They look really really good, and are bright, just need some fog to test them out.

Sponsored