Which LCA

[Gren71]

Im working on re aligning my rear axle, its currently canted a little towards the rear, putting my spring angle a little off.

im looking at LCAs to make that right. (I dont want relocation brackets so lets just bypass that part of this convo)

i was about to pull the trigger on core 4x4 lcas when i saw these fixed length JKS ones.

I like core 4 x 4 products but the fact that the JKS LCAs don’t require me to hit a grease point ever, and cost a little less, make them an interesting thought. Their length seems about the same as the added length for the Mopar performance front LCAs, which makes me think they’ll correct my angle issue since it’s only a 2 inch lift in the rear.

does anyone have experience with these? Or should i just stfu and buy the adjustable rear lcas?

core 4x4
https://www.core4x4.com/product/t3-j-jt-rl2/

jks
https://www.quadratec.com/p/jks-man...m_medium=organic&utm_campaign=organicshopping

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[bleda2002]

If you're going to spend the money I'd go away from clevite bushings and go towards dual durometer. The nice thing about the dual durometer is that you can still rebuild them but they dont require greasing.

I also avoided Core 4x4 because i dont want to grease anything luckily there are a lot of dual durometer options at this point (there may be more but these are the ones i know):

• Teraflex Alpine IR (no jam nut)
• Synergy control Arms (no jam nut and can be adjusted with out dropping an end)
• Metal Cloak (jam nut, but can the arms self center so you can tighten the nut on the vehicle)
• Clayton
• Rancho

I personally went with the metal cloak ones as they are easy to rebuild and the joints are cheap and proven.

 

[Renegade]

Im working on re aligning my rear axle, its currently canted a little towards the rear, putting my spring angle a little off.

im looking at LCAs to make that right. (I dont want relocation brackets so lets just bypass that part of this convo)

i was about to pull the trigger on core 4x4 lcas when i saw these fixed length JKS ones.

I like core 4 x 4 products but the fact that the JKS LCAs don’t require me to hit a grease point ever, and cost a little less, make them an interesting thought. Their length seems about the same as the added length for the Mopar performance front LCAs, which makes me think they’ll correct my angle issue since it’s only a 2 inch lift in the rear.

does anyone have experience with these? Or should i just stfu and buy the adjustable rear lcas?

core 4x4
https://www.core4x4.com/product/t3-j-jt-rl2/

jks
https://www.quadratec.com/p/jks-man...m_medium=organic&utm_campaign=organicshopping

The JKS arms you linked to are for the JL, not the JT.
I'm with the previous poster, and don't prefer greaseable bushings. They are a pain in the ass. I would go with a maintenance free option. I chose the Clayton Overland Plus for the front of mine.

 

[Gren71]

The JKS arms you linked to are for the JL, not the JT.
I'm with the previous poster, and don't prefer greaseable bushings. They are a pain in the ass. I would go with a maintenance free option. I chose the Clayton Overland Plus for the front of mine.

Well f me they are. When i googled the jt lcas they came up and i didnt even check…rookie mistake. Ty!

 

[Gren71]

Do y’all think shorter uppers would be better than longer lowers?

im baffled by the lack of fixed length rear lower arms for lifted JTs

 

[Chris262]

Do y’all think shorter uppers would be better than longer lowers?

im baffled by the lack of fixed length rear lower arms for lifted JTs

How high did you lift?

 

[bleda2002]

Do y’all think shorter uppers would be better than longer lowers?

im baffled by the lack of fixed length rear lower arms for lifted JTs

If you are trying to re-center the axle in the wheel well go lowers. The uppers are really for setting the rear pinion angles. I am interested to hear how much you lifted though.

 

[Blade1668]

I would second that grease type control arms are a PITA I've had them on my XJ they work great but need to be greased often and messy or they rattle and wear out.

 

[Gren71]

I would second that grease type control arms are a PITA I've had them on my XJ they work great but need to be greased often and messy or they rattle and wear out.

The rattle is what I dont want. Im not afraid of greasing them. I have a core 4x4 front and rear track bars that both have grease points. I hit them once a month without issue.

 

[Gren71]

If you are trying to re-center the axle in the wheel well go lowers. The uppers are really for setting the rear pinion angles. I am interested to hear how much you lifted though.

Only using 2 in spacers. I have the 2in Iron Rock off road spacer lift.

Im aware that the common knowledge is that its unnecessary to bother with LCAs after only a 2in lift. Im doing everything I cant to try and stay as close to OEM spec as possible. Which so far as seen me add MPP front LCAs, adjustable front track bar, adjustable rear track bar, and longer front and rear sway bar ends.

I was going to stop there.

But since installing my red airlift bags its very evident that my rear axle is not oriented correctly any more, which makes my springs angle towards the front of the truck instead of vertical. To the point that it kind of makes me nervous for towing, though I havent had any issues. The angle is just concerning now that Im aware of it.

 

[Gren71]

https://www.claytonoffroad.com/product/jeep-gladiator-overland-short-rear-lower-control-arms-2020-jt

for not having greese points these look like a good option. But what do they mean by "short" in the description? Is is just that they are capable of being set shorter than stock if thats what the end user wants?

https://metalcloak.com/jt-gladiator-lower-rear-duroflex-control-arms.html

what makes you want the metal cloak over the clayton off road? they seem almost the same accept in price.

 

[XJADDICTION]

If you're going to spend the money I'd go away from clevite bushings and go towards dual durometer. The nice thing about the dual durometer is that you can still rebuild them but they dont require greasing.

I also avoided Core 4x4 because i dont want to grease anything luckily there are a lot of dual durometer options at this point (there may be more but these are the ones i know):

• Teraflex Alpine IR (no jam nut)
• Synergy control Arms (no jam nut and can be adjusted with out dropping an end)
• Metal Cloak (jam nut, but can the arms self center so you can tighten the nut on the vehicle)
• Clayton
• Rancho

I personally went with the metal cloak ones as they are easy to rebuild and the joints are cheap and proven.

This here is the truth! Much better ride for a daily and still rebuildable. Plenty of flex. Get rid of stock rear sway bar if you haven’t and go aftermarket with heavier duty links.

 

[Clayton Off Road]

https://www.claytonoffroad.com/product/jeep-gladiator-overland-short-rear-lower-control-arms-2020-jt

for not having greese points these look like a good option. But what do they mean by "short" in the description? Is is just that they are capable of being set shorter than stock if thats what the end user wants?

https://metalcloak.com/jt-gladiator-lower-rear-duroflex-control-arms.html

what makes you want the metal cloak over the clayton off road? they seem almost the same accept in price.

The two main types of control arms are referred to as either short arms, which are arms that bolt up from factory mounting point to factory mounting point, and long arms, which are arms that are much longer and so require brand new mounting locations and brackets. So really the "short" in the description is only to categorize them as such, and show that they bolt right into your vehicle's factory locations.

Some companies categorize short arms as "mid-arms" but truthfully there really is no such thing. Control arms on some of the older Jeep vehicles prior to the JK used to use much shorter designs, which is what originally created the need for long arm systems that got a lot of companies just like us started in this industry! At some point, Jeep started improving the geometry of the factory suspension by designing slightly longer stock arms, which some started to refer to as "mid-arms". These arms, and their aftermarket replacements, while longer than control arms used 15 or so years ago are technically just still short arms as they bolt in from factory mounting point to factory mounting point.

Hopefully that helps clear up your confusion and was not too long of an explanation

 

[Gren71]

The two main types of control arms are referred to as either short arms, which are arms that bolt up from factory mounting point to factory mounting point, and long arms, which are arms that are much longer and so require brand new mounting locations and brackets. So really the "short" in the description is only to categorize them as such, and show that they bolt right into your vehicle's factory locations.

Some companies categorize short arms as "mid-arms" but truthfully there really is no such thing. Control arms on some of the older Jeep vehicles prior to the JK used to use much shorter designs, which is what originally created the need for long arm systems that got a lot of companies just like us started in this industry! At some point, Jeep started improving the geometry of the factory suspension by designing slightly longer stock arms, which some started to refer to as "mid-arms". These arms, and their aftermarket replacements, while longer than control arms used 15 or so years ago are technically just still short arms as they bolt in from factory mounting point to factory mounting point.

Hopefully that helps clear up your confusion and was not too long of an explanation

that certainly helped clear the water a bit, thanks!

 

[Renegade]

https://www.claytonoffroad.com/product/jeep-gladiator-overland-short-rear-lower-control-arms-2020-jt

for not having greese points these look like a good option. But what do they mean by "short" in the description? Is is just that they are capable of being set shorter than stock if thats what the end user wants?

https://metalcloak.com/jt-gladiator-lower-rear-duroflex-control-arms.html

what makes you want the metal cloak over the clayton off road? they seem almost the same accept in price.

MetalCloak Duroflex joints and Clayton Giiro joints are similar in function. Both are said to offer increased flex and be maintenance free.

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