Who Re-valves Mojave Fox Shocks ???

[Jaxmax]

Thanks Jack! I assume that the Max Tow springs are higher rate than the JTM's?? I don't follow why you'd want to increase the spring rate and not also increase damping? Please enlighten me.


Tony does cool stuff! However my understanding is that he has been focusing on JTR's with Fox 2.5's and SDI E-Clik's (maybe I'm wrong about that?)... The Mojave/Fox internal bypass socks are a completely different animal.

I don’t think I can enlighten you , I am not that knowledgeable, but a guy here suggested to me to swap to heavier rated Max Tow springs as he had , and for short money it has worked
well on road, on beach and on the trails it’s firmer but I am still enjoying the ride over bumps and speed bumps at thirty mph for about 35,000 miles. I also put in a differential shock that helped with hopping coming over soft beach dunes. When my shocks are due for rebuilding , I’ll look at options or changing valving then. I still think a factory Mojave ride is awesome until you start adding hundreds of pounds in the bed, then springs and shocks should be looked at. ….Jack

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[RacerAV]

I went with new Synergy springs front and rear on my JTM... steel bumper with winch up front, and Decked plus another 150lbs in the bed, roof rack and inspired overland soft top RTT on the cab. PLUS my Rockslide Engineering sliders aren't exactly lightweight lol...

Rides great, little firmer, but that was the goal. It does sit slightly higher than OEM, but with my 37s, it's perfect. I will probably swap the front springs again for an inch taller... to level it out. Right now I've got a rake since I wanted to be more level while towing, but I think it'll only slightly sag while towing rather than riding on my rear bump stops like before.

You DO need to have a bump stop spacer in the rear with this set up (and the front if you go to the next taller spring) AND a shock relocation bracket (moves the axle side mount upward to keep the shock length similar to OEM). I need to find a shock relocation bracket for the front when I go with the taller front springs.

Springs carry the weight, shocks control the bounce... I think going this route would work great for you, and save you a lot of money.

Current front set:

Rear set (2" row):

 

[RacerAV]

The zones are piston location sensitive.

There are tubes within your external tubes that have holes machined in them which are covered my spring steel shims that allow for a controlled oil leak around the piston holes.

Say your shock was setup for 4 zones.........With the shock fully extended all 3 leaks in the tube and the piston come into play are subject to fluid flow. As the piston travels past the first leak, you now have only 2 leaks and the piston, progressing to the end of travel (and increasing damping) where there are 0 leaks flowing in the tube because they are on the rebound side of the piston.......At this point the only leak is through the piston which will control your bottoming (firmest) stage.

If you are riding outside of the designed ride height position, the intended valving for that zone will not be as it was set up for possibly netting a softer or firmer ride.

Dude... love this! Thanks for writing that up!

 

[RacerAV]

Okay the rain finally let up...
There is (approximately) 4.5" of shaft exposed and the eye-to-eye shock length is (almost exactly) 22.125".

My JTM is sitting very very close to factory ride height. This is with stock springs and 1.5" spacers at all 4 corners, GFC camper on, & a full tank of fuel. No passengers, no extra camping gear.

Note sure how relevant this is, but visually the truck appears to me to be level.... no rake, no squat. in the photo below I did my best to take the shot level and square to the Jeep. I added the cyan reference lines (all parallel to each other) to help me get a sense for "how level does it look".

Thanks for all of the input so far. Will let y'all know how it goes with Desert Speed.
-Mark

Stock ride height with 1.5" spacers just mean your springs are smashed down an inch and a half. If you swap springs to just be in that range WITHOUT a spacer, you'd be better off.

 

[OffAxis2021]

I did not read through the 3 pages, but in case this has not already been mentioned…

 

[msiminoff]

If you swap springs to just be in that range WITHOUT a spacer, you'd be better off.

"Better off" is relative... taller springs might bet better if I wanted a higher spring rate (or dual/triple rate). However, my goal is to be at ~stock ride height with the same spring rate as stock. The spacers achieve that.

I did not read through the 3 pages, but in case this has not already been mentioned…

All Terrain does rad stuff and their Mojave shock swap program is brilliant! However they do not offer re-valving service for the Mojave shocks..

 

[chr15m]

"Better off" is relative... taller springs might bet better if I wanted a higher spring rate (or dual/triple rate). However, my goal is to be at ~stock ride height with the same spring rate as stock. The spacers achieve that.


All Terrain does rad stuff and their Mojave shock swap program is brilliant! However they do not offer re-valving service for the Mojave shocks..

For sure, I swapped in spacers and notice no ride behavior change. Yes the springs are compressed, but by the weight, the spacers have no affect on that.

I added the airbags and it's better but also worse.. it bounces less as the bags do their job, but the bags also work a bit like a constant bump stop. I've now got Eibach coils that are 1" taller than stock and have a slightly increased spring rate. I'll install those in April, but I anticipate some trade offs there as well.

Good luck on your journey though, it's all very subjective and I hope you find the best route for yourself.

 

[RacerAV]

"Better off" is relative... taller springs might bet better if I wanted a higher spring rate (or dual/triple rate). However, my goal is to be at ~stock ride height with the same spring rate as stock. The spacers achieve that.


All Terrain does rad stuff and their Mojave shock swap program is brilliant! However they do not offer re-valving service for the Mojave shocks..

So I talked to the Fox reps at King of the Hammers last weekend... remembering THIS thread, I asked about them rebuilding AND/OR revalving our OEM Fox Mojave shocks... They said they do!!!

I'll find the card they gave me for contact info, but I'd think you can find contact info online pretty quick.

 

[Aleph]

So I talked to the Fox reps at King of the Hammers last weekend... remembering THIS thread, I asked about them rebuilding AND/OR revalving our OEM Fox Mojave shocks... They said they do!!!

I'll find the card they gave me for contact info, but I'd think you can find contact info online pretty quick.

Were you able to find their contact info?

I’m considering adding a GFC camper to my JTM but the potentially expensive headache of trying to maintain the stock ride quality is really putting me off. I’m close to just getting a GFC topper and sticking to good ol’ tent camping instead.

 

[ecidiego]

sticking to good ol’ tent camping instead.

this is the way.

 

[Aleph]

this is the way.

Oh by the way’ I saw you added the Mojave X rear coil springs, which is a route that I was considering taking if I got a camper, but i doubt that would compensate for 275 lbs of added weight in the rear, right?

 

[ecidiego]

Oh by the way’ I saw you added the Mojave X rear coil springs, which is a route that I was considering taking if I got a camper, but i doubt that would compensate for 275 lbs of added weight in the rear, right?

I added all 4 springs. The steel front bumper is what made me do it. I never really noticed the steel rear affecting it but I added them anyway. They're probably 'not enough' for 275lbs but they'd be better than Non X springs. I paid $100 on Facebook so it was an easy buy.

 

[Aleph]

I added all 4 springs. The steel front bumper is what made me do it. I never really noticed the steel rear affecting it but I added them anyway. They're probably 'not enough' for 275lbs but they'd be better than Non X springs. I paid $100 on Facebook so it was an easy buy.

Right now I have a rebel off-road xplor half rack in the back (~165 lbs) and a 12k winch + aluminum front bumper (~100lbs combined) on the stock springs. Just took the truck 45-55 mph bombing some whoops in the sand in Ocala National Forest in Florida this weekend with no additional gear in the bed. it felt and performed great, but also felt like I was just about to push my luck on the stock springs. 100 lbs of gear or a GFC camper in the back and it probably will ride like a dump truck.

this thread convinced me. It’s hard for me to give up the idea of the pass-through from RTT to truck bed that you get in a camper (even a lightweight one like the GFC), but probably a better idea to just go with a topper and not be stuck with GFC’s current state of RTT technology. I can always add a RTT to the topper or get a camper later.

I’m about to move to Alaska and the truly beautiful campsites there likely aren’t the ones that you can just drive or off-road to like in western US.

 

[msiminoff]

OP here… I was able to find a local shop that will re-valve my rear shocks and I have an appointment with them in a couple weeks. I’ll report back here on how that works out.

I do agree that a RTT isn’t the right choice for all people & places, and I wouldn’t have one on a daily driver. In my case the JTM is a dedicated overland travel vehicle and I’m in the mountains or desert with it several times a month, all year round. The ease and comfort of living out of the GFC is really fantastic.

 

[RacerAV]

Were you able to find their contact info?

I’m considering adding a GFC camper to my JTM but the potentially expensive headache of trying to maintain the stock ride quality is really putting me off. I’m close to just getting a GFC topper and sticking to good ol’ tent camping instead.

Man I'm sorry, totally forgot about this! I'll find it tonight!

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