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Why not buy a Centerforce dual friction clutch?

seven30

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I feel the weakest point on my JT is the clutch. Not getting into the recalls blah blah blah, but that seems to be my limiting factor for better towing, off road, etc. Someone, help me understand why not get the Centerforce dual friction upgrade? Any real world experiences out there to share?

I haven't had an issue with the stock unit. This just seems like a significant improvement for a reasonable cost. Do I wait and see if Jeep does anything more than a software update? (Of which I'm dubious)

I'm running a sport s with a mopar lift BTW
I have 35k on my clutch. The clutch itself is excellent. Its he dual mass flywheel design which tends to cause stalling at low rpm. Because its part of the clutch assembly getting rid of that means you loose the sweet double disc clutch sadly.
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Hipbilly

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Mine shipped yesterday (8/31), been on order since 8/24/21.
Estimated delivery: Tomorrow!
 

Hipbilly

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Fedex Tracking says it's 12.1 lbs.... I sure hope that's wrong.....
 

bryanklay

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this is what mine is showing from fedEx:

WEIGHT73.1 lbs / 33.16 kgs
DIMENSIONS19x18x13 in.
TOTAL PIECES1
INVOICE NUMBERIF532729
PACKAGINGPackage
 

Bbannongmu

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Fedex Tracking says it's 12.1 lbs.... I sure hope that's wrong.....
Hopefully that’s just the hydraulics and you get everything. The flywheel alone is about 44 pounds.
 

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Hipbilly

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Quadratec:
Shipping Weight: 90lb
Shipping Dimensions: 18in x 18in x 13in (L x W x H)

Fedex:
WEIGHT12.1 lbs / 5.49 kgs
DIMENSIONS19x19x14 in.

so the BOX is the right size.. haha

All this to speculate on something I'll know tomorrow.....
 

Mtpisgah

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I finally stopped at the shop and ordered mine today. Hopefullly it will not be as long of a wait as some of you guys.
 

Gvsskier

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I installed a Magnuson SC a few months after purchasing my 2020 sport. It’s been a while since I’ve had time to read and contribute. I was on the waiting list for the CenterForce JT clutch early on in their development. I used a full mech shop to install at same time installing a re-gear. The Clutch is excellent and after 57,000kms is still excellent.
 

bryanklay

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good evening all. I received the box with the clutch assembly on Saturday. i went thru it on Sunday evening after i got back from the middle of Idaho for some testing of the jeep. there was a few interesting items that i noticed. the first was the redesigned master cylinder and a longer slave cylinder. the fact they did a redesign was good because i have felt and explained the cylinder inside the slave cylinder was not long enough for full disengagement of the clutch. the one item that surprised me was the lack of wrapping around the hydraulic line for the clutch. in my opinion, there should be more heat protection then what there is. my intention is to wrap exhaust tape around the line from top to bottom and that should help with the heat issue.
Jeep Gladiator Why not buy a Centerforce dual friction clutch? 20220904_194434[1]


Jeep Gladiator Why not buy a Centerforce dual friction clutch? 20220904_194524[1]


Jeep Gladiator Why not buy a Centerforce dual friction clutch? 20220904_194352[1]
 

Hipbilly

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Got my Centerforce hydraulics installed. Only drive 5 miles or so. Feels slightly springier and a little more positive engagement/disengagement (the clutch and flywheel took away most of the stock clutch vagueness - this took away the rest). Can really tell in reverse and at the release point in 1st from a stop. No real difference in the rest of the gears so far.
 

bryanklay

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that is good to hear. i am delayed in the install due to having to order both side knuckles for my mom's van. i hope to start the install next Thursday.
 

Hipbilly

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In, Done, and Happy!

Started at 9:00a.m. Saturday, finished at 2:00a.m.. 17hrs minus a little break for lunch and dinner and to check in on the Razorbacks. I was working on a garage floor, on a creeper, with one assistant and all the tools I could possibly need.

Some notes:
The plastic Christmas tree clips along the side of the transmission are not coming out without a fight. I broke 3 of the 6.

The 2 bolts at 12 o'clock on the bell housing are not as bad as they could be, if you attack them with the trans drooped, from above the transfer case, with 3 feet of extensions. the can be touched by a helper from the engine bay, to help guide your socket on, and to start them upon reassembly.
The metal bracket that share the 1 o'clock and 2 o'clock bolt studs can be held out of the way from above with a ratchet strap, upon stabbing the trans back on.

Carefully follow the hydraulic assembly and bleeding instructions, then bleed it a 2nd and 3rd time.
At my first start-up and test at 1:40 a.m., it would not go into R, 1, or 2. It would go into 3, and higher, and I could pump the pedal 3 times and get it in 1st. I drove it home like this.
I let it sit over night and bled it yesterday, with 3 cycles of alternating vacuum and pedal pumping, and that fixed it.

My pedal still has to be all the way to the floor to go in gear, and it starts moving the truck around 3/4" from the floor. this has already gotten a little better with just 50 or so miles of break-in. the only thing that won't shift like it used to is going into 1st while rolling backwards. Again, I believe .020" or so of clutch seating/wear/break-in-in will sort this out.

The flywheel completely changes this engine for the better; no more whip-lash shifts for the passengers, it coasts way better on the interstate, you can let the clutch all the way out with zero throttle at the green light, then accelerate in gear... its the way a trucky clutch should be. not a roadster.
 

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