Windows Won't Roll Down

[KAExcaliber]

So I was running a wire through the passenger side firewall to hook up to the aux wires and now my windows won't roll down.
- I haven't found any associated fuses, but I did pull the circuit breaker (?) and hot wired it to see if that was the problem but no change.
- I also disconnected the battery to see if that would reset the issue but not sure that worked due to the aux battery
- I am wondering if I nicked/ stretched a wire pushing a phillips through the rubber gromet to make passing the wire easier

Any ideas? I don't see anything disconnected. Do I need to reset something?

Any help would be appreciated?

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[Gregj]

Uggg, blunt instruments through that bulkhead tends to lead to trouble. I have carefully pushed a coat hanger through it and taped wires to it and pulled it back through without problems but there is a very real chance of damaging wires in there. They are NOT neatly arranged in there.

Gregj

 

[WK2JT]

Also, have you had the doors disconnected recently? Another possibility is the pins in the connector got bent when reconnected. The pins in the connector are made of over cooked spaghetti.

 

[KAExcaliber]

Uggg, blunt instruments through that bulkhead tends to lead to trouble. I have carefully pushed a coat hanger through it and taped wires to it and pulled it back through without problems but there is a very real chance of damaging wires in there. They are NOT neatly arranged in there.

Gregj

I ended up getting a coat hanger through with the wires but had used the phillips as mentioned to create some space to get the wire through. The OEM wires are all wrapped., maybe wishful thinking but I really don't feel like I would have severed one with a phillips. I am wondering if I tripped the computer somehow?

 

[KAExcaliber]

Also, have you had the doors disconnected recently? Another possibility is the pins in the connector got bent when reconnected. The pins in the connector are made of over cooked spaghetti.

I wish that was the culprit, but no. I haven't had the doors off since last year, unfortunately

 

[Hootbro]

When I did the MOPAR aux switch install on my 2022 Rubicon JT and did the pass through wire pull on the right upper firewall wire pass through seal, I wound up cutting the power wire to my rear view electronic dimming mirror. There was no way I was going to be able to splice in that location and would scab off the accessory port wiring with a splice in to that circuit.

Do the back seat window switches work? If not, you probably cut the main power wire at the pass through (may have nicked others also). That is a metric 3.0 mm(2) gauge wire (12 AWG approx), so it will be thicker than most in the bundle.

I would look for the power wire at the pass through to see what the damage actually is and see if you can pull the break back on each side of the firewall seal and maybe splice and feed through a service loop to splice on the other side. I do not think you can scab another power wire on the inside like I did due to the heavier gauge and the need to be on that circuit breaker for thermal load protection.

 

[KAExcaliber]

When I did the MOPAR aux switch install on my 2022 Rubicon JT and did the pass through wire pull on the right upper firewall wire pass through seal, I wound up cutting the power wire to my rear view electronic dimming mirror. There was no way I was going to be able to splice in that location and would scab off the accessory port wiring with a splice in to that circuit.

Do the back seat window switches work? If not, you probably cut the main power wire at the pass through (may have nicked others also). That is a metric 3.0 mm(2) gauge wire (12 AWG approx), so it will be thicker than most in the bundle.

I would look for the power wire at the pass through to see what the damage actually is and see if you can pull the break back on each side of the firewall seal and maybe splice and feed through a service loop to splice on the other side. I do not think you can scab another power wire on the inside like I did due to the heavier gauge and the need to be on that circuit breaker for thermal load protection.

Thanks for taking the time to respond and sharing your experience. I saw some of your comments on similar posts. I don't have power to any of the windows, front or back.

 

[Hootbro]

Thanks for taking the time to respond and sharing your experience. I saw some of your comments on similar posts. I don't have power to any of the windows, front or back. I also just realized, I don't have power to the power mirrors either. Can't tell if I have power to the mirror dimmer or not?

Yeah, sounds like you got multiple cut wires then at that seal. I will not sugar coat it, you got a mother lover of a job to find and fix that. A dealership would not mess with it and tell you that a whole harness would need to be replaced but that is not conducive to most peoples pocket books.

 

[KAExcaliber]

Yeah, sounds like you got multiple cut wires then at that seal. I will not sugar coat it, you got a mother lover of a job to find and fix that. A dealership would not mess with it and tell you that a whole harness would need to be replaced but that is not conducive to most peoples pocket books.

Any chance I tripped something in the computer with a wire cross or something? I tapped into my truckbed lights to install some LEDS... I have since disconnected everything installed but windows still not working.

 

[Hootbro]

Any chance I tripped something in the computer with a wire cross or something? I tapped into my truckbed lights to install some LEDS... I have since disconnected everything installed but windows still not working.

Doubt it, that is basic power running from the fuse box to the windows and mirror circuit.

You have a old fashion power and ground that needs to get troubleshot and repaired wherever the break is.

 

[OldButStillJeeping]

I have nothing much to add.. but will throw this out there... Did you accidently push the "lock" windows button?

My wife has our JT today, so I don't accually remember the window switch setup.

Electrical gremlins are the worst.

Good luck.

 

[KAExcaliber]

I have nothing much to add.. but will throw this out there... Did you accidently push the "lock" windows button?

My wife has our JT today, so I don't accually remember the window switch setup.

Electrical gremlins are the worst.

Good luck.

I wish it was that simple. Still trying to figure it out.

 

[KAExcaliber]

Update:
- Power windows still don't work.
- Rear media center console not working
- Passenger fire wall pass through is incredibly difficult to get to, so I haven't been able to assess the wires fully.
- I did look at the pink and yellow wire on the back of the window switch module and its thick! - I really just can't believe I would have severed at the pass through to the point of no power.
- I have a rough idea of how the schematics work but if I am readin them correctly there is no common between the rear windows and the front, which means I would have had to have severed at least two wires, which I find harder to believe.

? is it possible that I disconnected a common ground, rather that two seperate hot wires?

Anybody able to provide some insight on what I might be missing given the windows/ rear media not working and the schematics. I would appreciate it!

 

[Gregj]

Ok, power windows are on relay K12, run/acc #1 which is controlled by the Body control Module. The trigger wires for those relays are very thin gauge and my guess is the wire for that relay is damaged. Idk what else is on that relay I bet everything that isn’t working is on it.
Power window diagram

Hope this helps,
Gregj

 

[Gregj]

I would check for power and ground on the trigger wires for that relay. I don’t know for sure but I think the BCM grounds that relay to turn it on.
Gregj

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