Windows Won't Roll Down

[KAExcaliber]

Ok, power windows are on relay K12, run/acc #1 which is controlled by the Body control Module. The trigger wires for those relays are very thin gauge and my guess is the wire for that relay is damaged. Idk what else is on that relay I bet everything that isn’t working is on it.
Power window diagram

Hope this helps,
Gregj

This makes more sense to me than having blunted through a power or ground.
Any idea which connectors I would test at to see which wire isn't getting a signal.

I would check for power and ground on the trigger wires for that relay. I don’t know for sure but I think the BCM grounds that relay to turn it on.
Gregj

Might have lost me but sounds like check the power into BCM. Thanks!

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[KAExcaliber]

Spliced wire into pink/yellow power at the back of the front window control module and all windows work with power in the rear media. I figured as much, but glad to know for sure. Now to work backwards...

 

[Gregj]

This makes more sense to me than having blunted through a power or ground.
Any idea which connectors I would test at to see which wire isn't getting a signal.



Might have lost me but sounds like check the power into BCM. Thanks!

Ok, did some checking on my Jeep. The relay is powered by the BCM.
Pull K12 relay at the fuse box and use a multi meter to check for voltage at this socket.

with the key off, there should be no voltage, with the key on there should be voltage. If there is no change key on/key off the trigger wire from the BCM is broken.
Gregj

 

[KAExcaliber]

Ok, did some checking on my Jeep. The relay is powered by the BCM.
Pull K12 relay at the fuse box and use a multi meter to check for voltage at this socket.

with the key off, there should be no voltage, with the key on there should be voltage. If there is no change key on/key off the trigger wire from the BCM is broken.
Gregj

Thanks for taking the time to check that out! I didn't see your message come in as I working on the jeep but eventually made it to the same idea. I did find that if I hot wire these two connections everything works. I have the ecoD so it looks like the fusebox is a little different but it seems like its the signal wire from the BCM to the relay socket pin 85. Now I just need to identify the wire and see which connector it goes to which is arguably the hardest part.

Does anybody know if there is a schematic for these connections?

 

[Gregj]

Thanks for taking the time to check that out! I didn't see your message come in as I working on the jeep but eventually made it to the same idea. I did find that if I hot wire these two connections everything works. I have the ecoD so it looks like the fusebox is a little different but it seems like its the signal wire from the BCM to the relay socket pin 85. Now I just need to identify the wire and see which connector it goes to which is arguably the hardest part.

Does anybody know if there is a schematic for these connections?

Message Benny @AllMoparParts.com maybe he can get you the schematic you need.
Gregj

 

[AllMoparParts.com]

Hi,
I cant get an internal schematic of the PDC but I can see the circuits incoming and outgoing. Granted the schematics we have are accurate connector C2 pin J5 delivers power to the window switches

I attached a PDF of C2 so that you can see where J5 is located. It should be a Pink with Yellow Tracer.


Let me know if you need any more info

- Benny

 

[KAExcaliber]

Might have fried my PCM

EDIT: did not fry my PCM.

 

[Hootbro]

1. Can the dealership Bench test a PCM?

Generally no, it needs to be within the vehicle to troubleshoot.

2. Can I still clone my PCM if it’s not working?

If it is not waking up and talking, you are not cloning it. A company like "United Radio" that repairs such things may be able to clone and extract the info on a bench environment.

Generally when a dealership or shop is replacing a dead module like the PCM, they are using software program after buying a license from Stellantis that lets them tunnel in and program based on "As Built" data provided by Stellantis by your VIN info.

How did we get to the PCM? Thought we were dealing with BCM stuff? Regardless, the same info above applies to it also.

 

[KAExcaliber]

Update:

I was able to remove the battery, aux, PCM, fusebox and supporting tray giving me access to the area where the wire harness passes through the firewall. When I unwrapped the wire wrap I found that I had indeed severed a green wire with a blue tracer and knicked a few others.

I repaired the severed green/ blue wire and taped up the others, the damage looked very superficial. I tested most of the wires for continuity, and double checked the damaged wires. There were only a few wires I didn't end up testing, however, there didn't appear to be any damage to theses wires at the section where they would have passed through the firewall.

At this point I wanted to see if that fixed my problem before putting everything back together properly, this is when one of the battery cables touched the pcm - after this I couldn't start the vehicle at all. This is when I panicked and thought I had fried my PCM. (I didn't!)

I ended up putting everything back together properly and the jeep fired right up but with all the same problems I had before. Here's what I noticed not working;
- Front Window & Rear Window Switch:
^ works if I hotwire J5 pin on C2 plug under fusebox
also works with pin 30 and 87 hotwired on RUN/ ACC 1 Relay

These all work with pin 30 and 87 hotwired on RUN 1 Relay
- HVAC Blower:
- Heated Seats
- Heated Steering Wheel
- Back up Camera = Blue screen
- Cigar Lighter:
^ works if I hotwire J2 pin on C2 plug under fusebox
- Rear Media Port:
^ works if I hotwire K5 pin on C2 plug under fusebox


I've tested all the fuses, gray relays (1,3,7,8,9,10,11,12,13,14,15,16,17,18,19) and the high amp fuse array. Wasn't sure how to test the circuit breaker but it seemed to have continuity. To the best of my knowledge they are all working like they are supposed to.

I am wondering if maybe there is something wrong with the Power Distribution Center motherboard? or the Circuit Board (non-serviceable) illustrated in the FUSES/ RELAY - RUN ACC Schematic.

I attached a couple schematics and think I have a pretty good understanding of them but maybe someone with some true knowledge reading these can let me know if I am missing something!

Any help would be sincerely appreciated. I am stuck.

 

[biplaneguy]

I know it's no help, but this is where I can smile as I crank up the manual windows on my base Sport.

 

[Hootbro]

Update:

I was able to remove the battery, aux, PCM, fusebox and supporting tray giving me access to the area where the wire harness passes through the firewall. When I unwrapped the wire wrap I found that I had indeed severed a green wire with a blue tracer and knicked a few others.

I repaired the severed green/ blue wire and taped up the others, the damage looked very superficial. I tested most of the wires for continuity, and double checked the damaged wires. There were only a few wires I didn't end up testing, however, there didn't appear to be any damage to theses wires at the section where they would have passed through the firewall.

At this point I wanted to see if that fixed my problem before putting everything back together properly, this is when one of the battery cables touched the pcm - after this I couldn't start the vehicle at all. This is when I panicked and thought I had fried my PCM. (I didn't!)

I ended up putting everything back together properly and the jeep fired right up but with all the same problems I had before. Here's what I noticed not working;
- Front Window & Rear Window Switch:
^ works if I hotwire J5 pin on C2 plug under fusebox
also works with pin 30 and 87 hotwired on RUN/ ACC 1 Relay

These all work with pin 30 and 87 hotwired on RUN 1 Relay
- HVAC Blower:
- Heated Seats
- Heated Steering Wheel
- Back up Camera = Blue screen
- Cigar Lighter:
^ works if I hotwire J2 pin on C2 plug under fusebox
- Rear Media Port:
^ works if I hotwire K5 pin on C2 plug under fusebox


I've tested all the fuses, gray relays (1,3,7,8,9,10,11,12,13,14,15,16,17,18,19) and the high amp fuse array. Wasn't sure how to test the circuit breaker but it seemed to have continuity. To the best of my knowledge they are all working like they are supposed to.

I am wondering if maybe there is something wrong with the Power Distribution Center motherboard? or the Circuit Board (non-serviceable) illustrated in the FUSES/ RELAY - RUN ACC Schematic.

I attached a couple schematics and think I have a pretty good understanding of them but maybe someone with some true knowledge reading these can let me know if I am missing something!

Any help would be sincerely appreciated. I am stuck.

When you say "hotwire" on pins 30 and 87 on the RUN/ACC 1 Relay, I assume you mean that you jumper the two socket contacts on the PDC with the relay removed? If so, that leaves either a relay control side on pins 85 and 86 or a bad relay but I assume you probably have already swapped the relay?

On the PDC with the RUN/ACC 1 Relay removed, I would make sure socket pin 85 has low continuity to vehicle ground. With the start button in ACC or RUN, I would make sure you have 12vdc going to socket pin 86 that is being sent by the BCM.

If no 12vd voltage at socket pin 86 on the PDC, I would continuity check that GN/BU wire between the BCM and PDC. If that checks out good and still not getting voltage out of the BCM, may have fried that leg of the BCM.

 

[KAExcaliber]

When you say "hotwire" on pins 30 and 87 on the RUN/ACC 1 Relay, I assume you mean that you jumper the two socket contacts on the PDC with the relay removed? If so, that leaves either a relay control side on pins 85 and 86 or a bad relay but I assume you probably have already swapped the relay?

That's what I was thinking. I have tested all the relays and swapped them with each other.

On the PDC with the RUN/ACC 1 Relay removed, I would make sure socket pin 85 has low continuity to vehicle ground. With the start button in ACC or RUN, I would make sure you have 12vdc going to socket pin 86 that is being sent by the BCM.

Here's what I got

 

[Hootbro]

Need to put your meter on the ohm scale and check the RUN/ACC 1 relay and read PIN 85 to a vehicle ground. Should be low ohms like 10 ohms or under.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

So I was running a wire through the passenger side firewall to hook up to the aux wires and now my windows won't roll down.

Silly question and matters not at this point, but -
Does that mean you were installing aux switches in a Jeep that didn't already have them?
OR
You were going through the firewall to ACCESS or HOOK UP TO the wires (you mention you were trying to hook up to the aux wires)

If the latter - you realize there are aux wires inside the cabin as well as next to the battery, correct?
So unless you were installing the aux switches in a vehicle that did NOT already have them, there was no reason to go through the firewall.

Maybe I misread your original and first post, but the bit:
>>through the passenger side firewall to hook up to the aux wires<<
Implies to me you have the aux switches already and just wanted to hook up to them?

Maybe not.

In any case, you have wires to repair - fix them before anything else. Then check every fuse and relay. (even p8shing in fuses as sometimes that aren't fully seated)

 

[KAExcaliber]

Need to put your meter on the ohm scale and check the RUN/ACC 1 relay and read PIN 85 to a vehicle ground. Should me low ohms like 10 ohms or under.

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