Wiring up KC Lights

[Wildbillny]

Greetings - I am looking for a little help from my gladiator friends. I have the factory installed auxiliary package and I bought the KC lights in the photos. Specifications are included in the pics. Does anyone know (based on the info provided in the pics) if each light requires 8.3 amps to run. I am asking because it states it comes with an illuminated 30 amp rocker switch. Why have a 30 amp switch for a 8.3 load requirement. Even if each light requires 8.3 it would add up to 16.6 amp requirement. I may hook each one up individually to the 15 amp auxiliary switches vs using my 40 amp as I am already using 1 my 40amps for a 400 watt power converter under the hood. Makes plugging in my holiday wreath at Christmas a snap. Any help is appreciate. Wild Bill

Sponsored

 

[Bobchadwickga]

I had started a similar thread. Perhaps there is something in there that can help you. https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/installation-of-kc-gravity®-led-pro6-lights.66200/

 

[Wildbillny]

I appreciate the reply but it did not answer my question. It did provide some other info on wire size I did not know about. Thx

 

[GrubbyBaja]

200 watts total divided by 12V = 16.7 amps for the set. (8.35 amps each).

 

[Wildbillny]

Thank you - I wonder why they have a 30 amp rocker switch. I am not going to use it but it seems excessive when only 16.7 amps is needed.

 

[snowbear]

Maybe the company that is making the switches only does 30-amp and higher. I suspect the cost difference between 30-amp and something closer to 16 amps is minimal.

As far as lights being over the switch rating, consider a relay: switch activates relay (minimal load) while relay activates lights (powered by battery, high beams, low beams, etc.)

 

[Wildbillny]

Thank you all!

 

[GrubbyBaja]

Thank you - I wonder why they have a 30 amp rocker switch. I am not going to use it but it seems excessive when only 16.7 amps is needed.

30A is a standard size and the cost vs a 20A switch is minimal. The 30A contacts would be more robust and would provide a higher mean time before failure. Many business decisions would also come into play (i.e. number of different type switches to keep in stock at the factory, potential returns for failed switches, potential brand name degradation due to failed switches which is a minor cost item in the kit, etc.)

 

[WILDHOBO]

I have two KC lights as well. They’re different models, but like yours, the pair would exceed 15 amps. I also didn’t use their harness, as I wanted to use an aux switch. I personally would not use two 15 amp switches, but use one 40amp switch for the pair. I think it would be annoying to need to turn on two switches, and would be a waste of a switch. I cut and modified their wiring harness to eliminate the switch and relay as neither were necessary when using an aux switch. I wired the ground to the ground post on the passenger side adjacent the battery. I kept their inline fuse on the positive wire and then connected it to aux 1 in my case. Either 1 or 2 are 40 amps. I then configured the aux switch to only be on with ignition to avoid accidental battery drain. They’ve been on for a year and I am very happy with the setup. I did not need to splice any new wire in, as the lengths of their harness wire were plenty to get from the bumper to the aux wires and ground.

 

[Wildbillny]

Great info. Thank you,

 

[WILDHOBO]

Great info. Thank you,

If that’s directed towards me, you’re very welcome. KC products are fantastic. You’ll love them.

Sponsored