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Workin' on that Death Wobble

spanishmack

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Something... something... software.
I recently posted here about "Steering Wobble Paranoia" (https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/steering-wobble-paranoia.97564/#post-1561842). Since that post I went to develop a full on death wobble. So, to start tackling it I got 4 Wheel Parts to put in some Dynatrac ball joints and while I was having them do that I went ahead and added a Terraflex 1.5:" spacer in the front to fix the rake, since I have a pretty heavy winch to put on there when I get the wobble fixed and the the time. I also order the YETI Steer Smarts XD Track Bar, draglink with attenuator and heavy duty tie rod to do myself. (After watching vids on doing ball joints, that seemed like more than I really wanted to try and tackle in my garage,) So, after I got it back from 4WP, it had a worse death wobble and the steering wheel was cocked to the left going straight. I didn't sweat it yet a whole lot, since I knew I had beefier components to put on and the total of 3.5" inches in the front was probably not OK for the factory track bar and other components. So, after 2 gruelling days, last night I got all the new components installed. (Had to get some last minute parts since the steering stabilizer mounting was different now. After I got everything installed, while I had the front wheels off, I used a set of alignment plates with the tape measures and got it dialed in perfectly to 1/8" toe in, with a 1/16" on either side. So, I clamped down the tie rod at that point, but the wheels back on and lowered it down. Rocked the front end, measured from coil bell to wheels edge and was off about a 1/4". Adjusted the track bar and got it even on each side. Then I adjusted the draglink and got the steering wheel recentered. When I put the steering stabilizer on (Fox TS for reference using 1 5/8" Fox tie rod bracket and extended passenger track bar bolt/stud) it took me several tries to get it oriented where it was not touching either the drag link or the trackbar. I finally got it with my wife's help turning the steering wheel, but it comes VERY close to the draglink at full hard over right. (Not sure how much to worry about this for future).

So, ready to give it a try around the neighborhood and then a little further if everything good. First thing I noticed was that the front tires looked significantly toed out. Trying to figured out how that is possible since I dialed it in so well with the plates and the wheels off. Anyways, tried it out. Steering felt immediatey better and "solid" is the best way I can describe it. Ran thru the neighborhood and all the bumps and holes that made the DW before did nothing. Great I'm thinking. Then I ran it down the road to some really rough patches doing about 45-50. NO WOBBLE! My only issue now, is that after all that adjustment the steering wheel is cocked left fairly significantly to go straight. And there seems to be more play in the steering wheel. Not pulling to either side when let go of the wheel going straight.

So my questions for those who know way more than me about this stuff:

1) Should I just let 4WP try and fix these issues (they wanted to have me bring it back in a week anyways to check their work)?
2) If I'm going to tackle it again myself, what steps / sequence should I go thru? (I'd rather avoid taking front wheels off this soon again, as a 56 year old guy it was pretty brutal getting them back up and on... Think I may be f@@@@d if I have a flat, but I'll deal with that when it happens)
3) Only thing still stock now besides the Mopar 2" lift are the control arms and swaybar components. Anyone think m I looking at forking out more money on adjustable control arms in front to fix this? (Got a cheap digital angle finder on Amazon, so was gonna try and check caster angle too)

I'm really in a pickle as I sold the backup F-150 I had a few months ago, so the Jeep is now my daily driver to get to work. Any thoughts, prayers, chants, psychic energy, good karma, luck, etc... welcomed.
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PuddleJumper

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As long as everything is solid now I don’t see what’s to worry about. 3.5” front lift is a bit excessive imo especially with OE arms. I would hassle 4WP about maybe getting some money back but I wouldn’t let them touch my truck again if they gave it back to me that messed up. It blows my mind how simple Jeeps are to work on and supposedly qualified techs can’t seem to get em right. I did a ball joint delete and regear in my garage. Jeep really does make the majority of jobs quite simple if you have a flat surface and some large jack stands.
 

OldButStillJeeping

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Take it to a 4wd specialty shop. Get a digital or serious alignment. Have them spin balance the tires.

4WP is really good for parts. But I wouldn't let their techs touch my Jeeps.
 

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You can easily adjust the drag link to correct the steering wheel change. That may also help a little with the play, but you can change the lash of the steering box to tighten up the steering. YouTube have videos on the subject.
 
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spanishmack

spanishmack

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Something... something... software.
You can easily adjust the drag link to correct the steering wheel change. That may also help a little with the play, but you can change the lash of the steering box to tighten up the steering. YouTube have videos on the subject.
I only found a video for the aluminum box. I have the steel one. (Adjustment knob on top and black vs side and aluminum silver colored)
 

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Stan H

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I recently posted here about "Steering Wobble Paranoia" (https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/steering-wobble-paranoia.97564/#post-1561842). Since that post I went to develop a full on death wobble. So, to start tackling it I got 4 Wheel Parts to put in some Dynatrac ball joints and while I was having them do that I went ahead and added a Terraflex 1.5:" spacer in the front to fix the rake, since I have a pretty heavy winch to put on there when I get the wobble fixed and the the time. I also order the YETI Steer Smarts XD Track Bar, draglink with attenuator and heavy duty tie rod to do myself. (After watching vids on doing ball joints, that seemed like more than I really wanted to try and tackle in my garage,) So, after I got it back from 4WP, it had a worse death wobble and the steering wheel was cocked to the left going straight. I didn't sweat it yet a whole lot, since I knew I had beefier components to put on and the total of 3.5" inches in the front was probably not OK for the factory track bar and other components. So, after 2 gruelling days, last night I got all the new components installed. (Had to get some last minute parts since the steering stabilizer mounting was different now. After I got everything installed, while I had the front wheels off, I used a set of alignment plates with the tape measures and got it dialed in perfectly to 1/8" toe in, with a 1/16" on either side. So, I clamped down the tie rod at that point, but the wheels back on and lowered it down. Rocked the front end, measured from coil bell to wheels edge and was off about a 1/4". Adjusted the track bar and got it even on each side. Then I adjusted the draglink and got the steering wheel recentered. When I put the steering stabilizer on (Fox TS for reference using 1 5/8" Fox tie rod bracket and extended passenger track bar bolt/stud) it took me several tries to get it oriented where it was not touching either the drag link or the trackbar. I finally got it with my wife's help turning the steering wheel, but it comes VERY close to the draglink at full hard over right. (Not sure how much to worry about this for future).

So, ready to give it a try around the neighborhood and then a little further if everything good. First thing I noticed was that the front tires looked significantly toed out. Trying to figured out how that is possible since I dialed it in so well with the plates and the wheels off. Anyways, tried it out. Steering felt immediatey better and "solid" is the best way I can describe it. Ran thru the neighborhood and all the bumps and holes that made the DW before did nothing. Great I'm thinking. Then I ran it down the road to some really rough patches doing about 45-50. NO WOBBLE! My only issue now, is that after all that adjustment the steering wheel is cocked left fairly significantly to go straight. And there seems to be more play in the steering wheel. Not pulling to either side when let go of the wheel going straight.

So my questions for those who know way more than me about this stuff:

1) Should I just let 4WP try and fix these issues (they wanted to have me bring it back in a week anyways to check their work)?
2) If I'm going to tackle it again myself, what steps / sequence should I go thru? (I'd rather avoid taking front wheels off this soon again, as a 56 year old guy it was pretty brutal getting them back up and on... Think I may be f@@@@d if I have a flat, but I'll deal with that when it happens)
3) Only thing still stock now besides the Mopar 2" lift are the control arms and swaybar components. Anyone think m I looking at forking out more money on adjustable control arms in front to fix this? (Got a cheap digital angle finder on Amazon, so was gonna try and check caster angle too)

I'm really in a pickle as I sold the backup F-150 I had a few months ago, so the Jeep is now my daily driver to get to work. Any thoughts, prayers, chants, psychic energy, good karma, luck, etc... welcomed.
The Mopar 2" should have come with longer control arms. If not yes get them lower control arms) and get the caster out more. Usually 5.5-6.0 .
 

Old Dogger

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The Mopar 2" should have come with longer control arms. If not yes get them lower control arms) and get the caster out more. Usually 5.5-6.0 .
Bingo...6.0° of caster is very important
 
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spanishmack

spanishmack

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The Mopar 2" should have come with longer control arms. If not yes get them lower control arms) and get the caster out more. Usually 5.5-6.0 .
I bought it new with the 2" Mopar lift already installed along with the TIS Off-road 555s and Toyo OC 37x13.5 R17s. Just looking at what comes in a Mopar 2" lift, I didn't see longer control arms pictured. Hopefully you're right.

I used my digital angle finder on top of the new ball joints and it looks like I have about 5.4 driver side and 4.9 passenger. Now I was just checking it right where I happened to be parked in my driveway, so I need to make sure to find a good level area before I commit to those caster numbers.
 
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spanishmack

spanishmack

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I recently posted here about "Steering Wobble Paranoia" (https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/steering-wobble-paranoia.97564/#post-1561842). Since that post I went to develop a full on death wobble. So, to start tackling it I got 4 Wheel Parts to put in some Dynatrac ball joints and while I was having them do that I went ahead and added a Terraflex 1.5:" spacer in the front to fix the rake, since I have a pretty heavy winch to put on there when I get the wobble fixed and the the time. I also order the YETI Steer Smarts XD Track Bar, draglink with attenuator and heavy duty tie rod to do myself. (After watching vids on doing ball joints, that seemed like more than I really wanted to try and tackle in my garage,) So, after I got it back from 4WP, it had a worse death wobble and the steering wheel was cocked to the left going straight. I didn't sweat it yet a whole lot, since I knew I had beefier components to put on and the total of 3.5" inches in the front was probably not OK for the factory track bar and other components. So, after 2 gruelling days, last night I got all the new components installed. (Had to get some last minute parts since the steering stabilizer mounting was different now. After I got everything installed, while I had the front wheels off, I used a set of alignment plates with the tape measures and got it dialed in perfectly to 1/8" toe in, with a 1/16" on either side. So, I clamped down the tie rod at that point, but the wheels back on and lowered it down. Rocked the front end, measured from coil bell to wheels edge and was off about a 1/4". Adjusted the track bar and got it even on each side. Then I adjusted the draglink and got the steering wheel recentered. When I put the steering stabilizer on (Fox TS for reference using 1 5/8" Fox tie rod bracket and extended passenger track bar bolt/stud) it took me several tries to get it oriented where it was not touching either the drag link or the trackbar. I finally got it with my wife's help turning the steering wheel, but it comes VERY close to the draglink at full hard over right. (Not sure how much to worry about this for future).

So, ready to give it a try around the neighborhood and then a little further if everything good. First thing I noticed was that the front tires looked significantly toed out. Trying to figured out how that is possible since I dialed it in so well with the plates and the wheels off. Anyways, tried it out. Steering felt immediatey better and "solid" is the best way I can describe it. Ran thru the neighborhood and all the bumps and holes that made the DW before did nothing. Great I'm thinking. Then I ran it down the road to some really rough patches doing about 45-50. NO WOBBLE! My only issue now, is that after all that adjustment the steering wheel is cocked left fairly significantly to go straight. And there seems to be more play in the steering wheel. Not pulling to either side when let go of the wheel going straight.

So my questions for those who know way more than me about this stuff:

1) Should I just let 4WP try and fix these issues (they wanted to have me bring it back in a week anyways to check their work)?
2) If I'm going to tackle it again myself, what steps / sequence should I go thru? (I'd rather avoid taking front wheels off this soon again, as a 56 year old guy it was pretty brutal getting them back up and on... Think I may be f@@@@d if I have a flat, but I'll deal with that when it happens)
3) Only thing still stock now besides the Mopar 2" lift are the control arms and swaybar components. Anyone think m I looking at forking out more money on adjustable control arms in front to fix this? (Got a cheap digital angle finder on Amazon, so was gonna try and check caster angle too)

I'm really in a pickle as I sold the backup F-150 I had a few months ago, so the Jeep is now my daily driver to get to work. Any thoughts, prayers, chants, psychic energy, good karma, luck, etc... welcomed.
UPDATE: Readjusted everything again and got it worse 'effed up than before. Luckily I took some notes on where some things were before. Kept my track bar adjustments as it was still a little off side to side in front. Readjusted back where I was with my tie rod. And then went thru about 3-4 rounds of tweaking the drag link and I actually have the steering wheel dead-on going straight down the road now Ran it hard over some really rough streets and kept puckering every bump I hit, but no wobble. I just still have more steering slop/play than I did before my death wobble started. Not sure if I just happen to have the bad luck that some Gladiators seem to have with sloppy steering or I wonder if the severe shaking/wobbles I went thru getting it back home the last time before my upgrade caused the steering box to loosen up (can that happen?)
 

Stan H

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I bought it new with the 2" Mopar lift already installed along with the TIS Off-road 555s and Toyo OC 37x13.5 R17s. Just looking at what comes in a Mopar 2" lift, I didn't see longer control arms pictured. Hopefully you're right.

I used my digital angle finder on top of the new ball joints and it looks like I have about 5.4 driver side and 4.9 passenger. Now I was just checking it right where I happened to be parked in my driveway, so I need to make sure to find a good level area before I commit to those caster numbers.
IF that is IF they control arms that came with the Mopar lift were installed they are about â…ś" longer than the originals . Since you dont have the originals to measure both to see . I am suggesting that you get a digital angle finder. Find out what the caster is. If it isnt at least what I mentioned then get a set of adjustable LCA's and do One at a time and adjust that caster out more. Its easy to tell remove one of the ones you have measure center of hole to center of hole and make the adjustable a shade longer by screwing it out a half or full turn ( dont lock the adjustment yet . Count the threads match the other adjustable to the one you just did . Now install it . ( dont tighten the nuts on the rear of the LCA just get the bolts in. Measure ypur caster . If it is still to low pull one at a time go one full turn stick bolt back in and repeat for other side . Measure caster again. When its is right then put the nuts back one and tighten them down tight. I dont recall the torque . It is like 150ft. Ibs. Or some crazy high number .
 

Stan H

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I bought it new with the 2" Mopar lift already installed along with the TIS Off-road 555s and Toyo OC 37x13.5 R17s. Just looking at what comes in a Mopar 2" lift, I didn't see longer control arms pictured. Hopefully you're right.

I used my digital angle finder on top of the new ball joints and it looks like I have about 5.4 driver side and 4.9 passenger. Now I was just checking it right where I happened to be parked in my driveway, so I need to make sure to find a good level area before I commit to those caster numbers.
Put the angle finder where this pic is showing.
According to what I learned and read.
If this measurement equals 90° ypur caster is 6°caster. As you can see in this pic this guy lacks alittle bit.

Jeep Gladiator Workin' on that Death Wobble A4C42537-CFAF-43EE-A5A3-246D363B6E66
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