EcoDiesel - Steering Box Slop

[CreepyJeepy]

Highway driving with my ecodiesel on 35” tires leads to a little wondering. There is prob 3ish degrees of slop in the steering box when I’d prefer it to be about 1 degree.

It is the steel box.

Have any of you adjusted your boxes with the steel box before?

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[CreepyJeepy]

It looks like I can get to it without having to take anything off…. Just lightly push one of the inter cooler hoses to the side….

Considering tightening it up an 1/8 turn…

 

[Darkspeed]

so each degree of that wheel should be 0.13" of travel so you are close to 0.39" of play? Was it this much from purchase or has it progressed to this?

 

[CreepyJeepy]

You are prob measuring at the center of the wheel. It has about 1.75” slop

 

[CreepyJeepy]

You are prob measuring at the center of the wheel. It has about 1.75” slop

It has progressed to this

 

[Lunentucker]

Not the diesel but I'm pretty sure the steering box doesn't know what engine you're running.
Yes, I adjusted mine months ago and it made a major difference.
Go one clock position at a time.

Also upgrade the stabilizer to a quality pass-thru aftermarket one from Fox, Falcon, or similar.
Check all of your steering and suspension components for proper torque.
If you've added a lift kit then make sure your caster is at least in spec, if not slightly positive of spec.
If not you'll need longer lower control arms or geometry correction brackets.
A slight toe in of about 1/8" seems to help as well.
Stock 33's should be run around 32-34 psi, NOT 37.
I run my BFG K02 35's at 31 cold. At 33 and up it's a noticeably harder ride but still handles beautifully.


Here's my own experience. My JT drives great now, thanks to what I have learned here and a few other places.

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/...ffective-steering-wander-fix-cost-me-0.57677/

 

[Chance575]

Are you sure it’s not tram lining with large wide tires with the worn roadway

 

[Darkspeed]

have you tried jacking up the front and rocking the wheel/tire in all directions to see if it has any movement?

 

[CreepyJeepy]

Yeah I have checked upper and lower ball joints, tie rod joints, pitman joint.

I’m sure part of the slop ‘dead zone’ is likely in the steering shaft itself, and that’s fine….

But there is certainly more slop than there used to be when the jeep had 1k miles vs 19k

 

[CreepyJeepy]

Reading through the posts it looks like they may have used a bunch of thread lock compound.

Getting enough space in there to break it free with a heat gun is going to be impossible without removing a ton of parts…. The ecodiesel really packs shit in there……

Anybody with an ecodiesel done this?

 

[Lunentucker]

Reading through the posts it looks like they may have used a bunch of thread lock compound.

Getting enough space in there to break it free with a heat gun is going to be impossible without removing a ton of parts…. The ecodiesel really packs shit in there……

Anybody with an ecodiesel done this?

Yes, they are threadlocked and heat is needed.
I melted my washer fluid hose getting mine loose, but had enough left to cut and re-attach.

 

[Darkspeed]

https://www.harborfreight.com/butane-micro-torch-63170.html

these work well for softening red in a tight spot. Cover other areas with damp cloth.

 

[Jeepin' John]

Not the diesel but I'm pretty sure the steering box doesn't know what engine you're running.
Yes, I adjusted mine months ago and it made a major difference.
Go one clock position at a time.

Also upgrade the stabilizer to a quality pass-thru aftermarket one from Fox, Falcone, or similar.
Check all of your steering and suspension components for proper torque.
If you've added a lift kit then make sure your caster is at least in spec, if not slightly positive of spec.
If not you'll need longer lower control arms or geometry correction brackets.
A slight toe in of about 1/8" seems to help as well.
Stock 33's should be run around 32-34 psi, NOT 37.
I run my BFG K02 35's at 31 cold. At 33 and up it's a noticeably harder ride but still handles beautifully.


Here's my own experience. My JT drives great now, thanks to what I have learned here and a few other places.

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/...ffective-steering-wander-fix-cost-me-0.57677/

This ^

 

[Jeepin' John]

I was able to break mine loose without heat, but i have the 3.6, so space might be different. Mark with paint first, then I used a hex key socket on an extension and 3/8 drive swivel bar/handle to keep the center from moving, and two wrenches end-to-end to create a longer wrench for the nut. The wrenches end-to-end fit between the cooling fans and the front of the engine. Again, space may be different

 

[Vtur]

Reading through the posts it looks like they may have used a bunch of thread lock compound.

Getting enough space in there to break it free with a heat gun is going to be impossible without removing a ton of parts…. The ecodiesel really packs shit in there……

Anybody with an ecodiesel done this?

I did it on mine diesel. I used this torch below to soften up the thread lock. It's easier to remove just the air box.

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