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Worth it? Any gains?

CAPTnKITTY

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Just curious if I would see any improvements out of power and mpgs to make the change worth it.

I bought a set of wheels and tires off a guy that got rid of his jeep. The tires are almost new. I got a set of 20 inch Fuels with 33/1250/20 Kenda Klever RT tires that are load F.

From the information I’ve gathered online, the wheels are around 44lbs each and the tires are 66 pounds. So around 110lbs per wheel.

Im looking at selling tires and getting 275/60/20s which are around 27lbs each. So around 71lbs per wheel. They would be same diameter but skinnier tires.
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Worth it? Depends on your value. You will spend a premium on new tires, but will save in MPG's due to a smaller contact patch with the road, and therefore less rolling resistance and less unsprung weight. If you buy decent tires that will last you through some good mileage, it's probably a win in my book.
 
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CAPTnKITTY

CAPTnKITTY

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Worth it? Depends on your value. You will spend a premium on new tires, but will save in MPG's due to a smaller contact patch with the road, and therefore less rolling resistance and less unsprung weight. If you buy decent tires that will last you through some good mileage, it's probably a win in my book.
I still have my stock wheels and tires to sell. And I would sell these tires as well. Lol
 
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CAPTnKITTY

CAPTnKITTY

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Worth it? Depends on your value. You will spend a premium on new tires, but will save in MPG's due to a smaller contact patch with the road, and therefore less rolling resistance and less unsprung weight. If you buy decent tires that will last you through some good mileage, it's probably a win in my book.
The truck doesn’t ride bad and it will do 75 on highway. You can tell it’s working much harder with these heavy tires. I’m trying to figure some stuff out to be able to tow my pontoon better when spring arrives.
 

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ATL_Rubi

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The truck doesn’t ride bad and it will do 75 on highway. You can tell it’s working much harder with these heavy tires. I’m trying to figure some stuff out to be able to tow my pontoon better when spring arrives.
Ahh gotcha, then reducing contact patches, and unsprung rotational weight will be a big help.
 

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The truck doesn’t ride bad and it will do 75 on highway. You can tell it’s working much harder with these heavy tires. I’m trying to figure some stuff out to be able to tow my pontoon better when spring arrives.
Spend the 2k on regearing, it will be way more useful and better bang for the buck in terms of increasing towing and every day performance.
 

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Tons of info already on this stuff.
@Gren71 did some great research on tires vs. mileage.
Also a lot of gearing vs. mpg info out there. Basically if you need lower gears for starting out and low speeds then regear, if it is for highway concerns check the threads and charts.
 

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Regearing for just 33's?
The Overland from the factory comes with the best combo of gearing and tires for mpg. It's the highway JT and helps them keep the average up.
I ran mine with Rubicon take-offs for a while and there was a drop in mpg due to the extra width, weight etc.,
(The Rubicon falken tires are 32.8 but are called 33s, the Overland stock H/T is 32.2 or something like that so there's hardly a difference - 32.2 compared to 32.8)
If regearing would get an Overland better mpg - Jeep would likely have sold them with 4.10s just to keep their CAFE numbers up.
No use regearing for stock size tires.
Overland has the best combination of gears and tires for MPG. Anything else will drop either slightly, or a lot.
If towing, keep in mind the top gears are overdrive and you are better off not seeing 8th while towing.
On both of my trucks - I lost mpg just because of using slightly wider tires - SAME diameter. I was told by shops it would happen and it did. (I knew it going in of course but was nice to hear someone who actually knew something talk to a customer)
Weight, width, aggressive tread - all lose you mpg. Weight and width will lose you perceived power.
Note that drag cars use skinny front tires to keep the friction and weight down among other things.
 

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The Overland from the factory comes with the best combo of gearing and tires for mpg. It's the highway JT and helps them keep the average up.
I ran mine with Rubicon take-offs for a while and there was a drop in mpg due to the extra width, weight etc.,
(The Rubicon falken tires are 32.8 but are called 33s, the Overland stock H/T is 32.2 or something like that so there's hardly a difference - 32.2 compared to 32.8)
If regearing would get an Overland better mpg - Jeep would likely have sold them with 4.10s just to keep their CAFE numbers up.
No use regearing for stock size tires.
Overland has the best combination of gears and tires for MPG. Anything else will drop either slightly, or a lot.
If towing, keep in mind the top gears are overdrive and you are better off not seeing 8th while towing.
On both of my trucks - I lost mpg just because of using slightly wider tires - SAME diameter. I was told by shops it would happen and it did. (I knew it going in of course but was nice to hear someone who actually knew something talk to a customer)
Weight, width, aggressive tread - all lose you mpg. Weight and width will lose you perceived power.
Note that drag cars use skinny front tires to keep the friction and weight down among other things.
Exactly. I've just put Rubicon-spec 32.8's on my 3.73 gears and have experienced all the same, but I still hit 8th gear at only 55mph. I'd say he's on the right track of weight savings as opposed to gears for just 33's. If they were 35's, gears would be a big thing to consider.

Of course, the biggest part of the equation is the 20" wheels, but that's a personal preference.
 

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Rubicon-spec 32.8's on my 3.73 gears and have experienced all the same, but I still hit 8th gear at only 55mph.
Same here - 8th was there. The gearing was fine. There's such a small difference in the outer circumference - but the tires being on 17" rims made the tire "look taller" likely because of the proportion to rim.
 

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Regearing for just 33's?
The 3.73 overland I test drove was an absolute dog compared to 4.10s of the Rubicon and the 4.10s were barely adequate. Wranglers are now available with optional 4.56 and 4.88s from the factory for 33's and given the stellar AT and the op's towing habits, gearing will still give him way more improvement than 1500 on tires.

If tires were still cheap it would be one thing but if you are spending 2/3 to 3/4 the price of gears trying to wring a few more tenths of a second out, just go gears or save your money as the new tires will do very little to change the performance dynamics unless significantly smaller (effectively more gearing)
 

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The 3.73 overland I test drove was an absolute dog compared to 4.10s of the Rubicon and the 4.10s were barely adequate. Wranglers are now available with optional 4.56 and 4.88s from the factory for 33's and given the stellar AT and the op's towing habits, gearing will still give him way more improvement than 1500 on tires.

If tires were still cheap it would be one thing but if you are spending 2/3 to 3/4 the price of gears trying to wring a few more tenths of a second out, just go gears or save your money as the new tires will do very little to change the performance dynamics unless significantly smaller (effectively more gearing)
Barely adequate? LOL - yeah, you are coming from a "I need MORE POWER!!!" and bigger, deeper is always better perspective. There are those of us who feel these are totally fine, not gutless, not dogs, and are plenty adequate.
Depends on what your personal perceptions are.
I hardly consider mine a "dog" and the torque converter and automatic almost negate any such change unless you go way deep, as far as "taking off".
the top gears are overdrive gears - which other trucks, such as Ford, used to lock out while towing.
Look at what you are comparing - a Wrangler, made for off-road to a JT - a truck? Hardly worth comparing. The Wrangler is more aimed at such needs. The JT - not so much. It's a truck, and oh, it isn't bad off-road, either - that's more of the market segment it's aimed at.
There's a reason Wrangler has those offerings and it's apples and oranges trying to compare to a truck for hauling and towing vs. a "SUV" aimed directly and specifically at off-roading.
Deeper gears won't give better mpg. You'll need to wind the engine up more to maintain the same road speed and that dictates fuel used.
If other gears were good for mpg, Jeep would have done it in the Overland. Overland is a MPG vehicle. And frankly, mine tows great with the gears it's got and 32-33" tires.
Deeper gears might see 8th more often, but why? If I stay in 6th or 7th more I have a similar final ratio to 8th in lower ratio axle gears.
 
 







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