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JRobes

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I changed my mind and went out to take pics. Keep in mind LEDs and camera don't mix well, so any oddities are not with the headlight, just a hz discrepancy.

Off:
20230210_134945.jpg



On (halos cant be seen because of camera/LED shenanigans, they are on and look great in person)
20230210_135031.webp
I like 'em. I'm not a fan of the the "look" of the vertical LED bars on the max versions, they look like those bedazzle jewels IMO. These are nice and clean though, thanks for the pics.

As far as the tight fitment of the wiring against the airbox, the wire jacketing will surely wear through eventually due to road vibrations, and should warrant a design revision by DD.

Now to watch how DD responds and communicates fixes to the issues thus far.
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rconkin

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Good afternoon!

I've just addressed this concern to our engineering team after bringing in multiple Gladiators to our testing bay in the last 2 weeks here at our HQ.

According to our team,

"Fitment is tight against the air box, however does not prevent it from being installed for safe operation. If more room is desired a customer could loosen the (2) air box bolts on the fender, push the air box back from the headlight and retighten the bolts simultaneously".

I hope this information is helpful. If you have any additional questions, I will forward them to the correct department!
@Diode Dynamics , how about a 90 degree connector. The hard plastic connector would be against the airbox instead of the wires. Do they make one that could be retrofitted for those of us that already have these installed? Just a thought.
 

Darkamek

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@Diode Dynamics So I have a question. The wire that goes to fuse 52, which is constant voltage. What is that controlling and how much current does it draw when on? I have Quadratec light bar on that circuit already and might need to move it to a different circuit.
 

rconkin

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I believe that my issues were a result of LED DRL and turn signals I had installed. I installed these along with headlight LED bulbs where I originally had halogen and hadn't had problems with the settings still on halogen until I installed the DD headlights. I used Jscan to change the DRL, turns and headlights to LED and have had no problems since. I don't want to reinstall the factory DRL and turns just to find out if my theory is correct since all is well right now. I had posted a couple of videos earlier if someone hasn't seen them. One was the welcome sequence and the other were with hazards to compare the color of the halos and Elite fogs for someone. If I can get some help, I'll do one running through the options when programming and that will show the different halo/sidelight combos.
 

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rconkin

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@Diode Dynamics So I have a question. The wire that goes to fuse 52, which is constant voltage. What is that controlling and how much current does it draw when on? I have Quadratec light bar on that circuit already and might need to move it to a different circuit.
I already had that fuse tapped also to make my Voswitch switched. I was going to tap the heated seats circuit for this but ended up just putting it on one of my switches on my Voswitch. It controls the offroad part of the lights.
 

Benbean66

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I already had that fuse tapped also to make my Voswitch switched. I was going to tap the heated seats circuit for this but ended up just putting it on one of my switches on my Voswitch. It controls the offroad part of the lights.
Good to know. Thank you. I wanted to be able to be able to turn the halos off, but didn't know if moving the hot lead would cause me to lose any other functions.
 

Rahkmalla

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Just went scouting for a place to aim my headlights... right headlight turned itself off... not thrilled in the least. Had to restart the truck and open the door to get it to turn back on. Then a minute later both headlights went out, but only had to cycle the light dial to get them both back on.

Looks like I either need to put my stocks back in or not drive at night for a while... lovely...

Edit: and they are turning themselves off intermittently from that point onward.

Edit2: just drove home from the place I was looking at to aim headlights later... both headlights shut off and wouldn't turn back on for 10 minutes. Pulled over and restarted the truck, they came back on then turned off 20 seconds later. Definitely can't drive my truck tonight.

I'd advise anyone against buying these things til @Diode Dynamics gets their house in order.
 

zuki_dan

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Installed my Elite Max headlights today. Only issue I will say I had was the fuse tap wire I added about 18" of wire to so it would route cleanly out the engine side by the main power wires and removed a tiny piece of the partition at the front inside of the box to keep from pinching the wire.

I have split rubicon flares and Artec inner fenders. Much easier to route the wires with the inner fenders removed. Just waiting for dark to adjust the lights. Driverside should be accessible with the fender liner out. Passenger side will have to remove the lower airbox or the headlight itself. My passenger side connector is jammed into the air box also.
 

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Darkamek

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With the diesel the passenger side is a little tight but nothing is hitting. No issues on the driver side.
Also waiting for it to get dark to adjust the lights.
 

darkhorse13

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I'd advise anyone against buying these things til @Diode Dynamics gets their house in order.
I understand your frustration that these are not turning out to be a true plug n play for us OEM Halogen owners, but they 100% work with a JScan or Tazer for OEM Halogens... again, this is a work around and I know Diode is addressing it from an earlier post #155. I'm sure they'll get it ironed out soon but for those of us already with aftermarket programming running these lights, they are great!

From Diode Dynamics post #155 below:
Jeep Gladiator NEW! Elite Series JL Wrangler & JT Gladiator LED Headlights from Diode Dynamics 1676075623148
 

Rahkmalla

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I understand your frustration that these are not turning out to be a true plug n play for us OEM Halogen owners, but they 100% work with a JScan or Tazer for OEM Halogens... again, this is a work around and I know Diode is addressing it from an earlier post #155. I'm sure they'll get it ironed out soon but for those of us already with aftermarket programming running these lights, they are great!

From Diode Dynamics post #155 below:
1676075623148.png
Honestly, it's just overflow of my frustrations with their abominable communication through the preorder delays. I ordered a security gateway plug and an obd2 dongle to work with jscan. I'll get it fixed by Monday, but that will never make me thrilled that I have to spend another $100+ to work with an $800 product designed to work without extras. But if I'm being honest, my willingness to spend more is influenced by my avoidance of wanting to resinstall my factory headlights and then reinstall the DDs when they work it out. Because of my XR flares I have to drill out rivets every time I drop a fender liner.
 
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rconkin

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@Benbean66 I don’t think there is a way to turn halos off unless you turn your DRL’s off altogether using Jscan or Tazer.
 

darkhorse13

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@Benbean66 I don’t think there is a way to turn halos off unless you turn your DRL’s off altogether using Jscan or Tazer.
Did you see my post #142? I think you can turn them off using Diodes directions. Have you tried this? Also, the red wire with add a fuse does not control the halo function or off road lights. On the blue wire controls the off road lights.
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