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Control arms

TOOBSOCK

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No arm with bushings is maintenance free because the bushings will wear out.

JJs typically last longer than bushings.
Got me on that one. Indeed bushings need to be replaced over time given variables of use and operating environment.
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bakobobby

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No arm with bushings is maintenance free because the bushings will wear out.

JJs typically last longer than bushings.
Well said. Can vouch for clevite style not lasting so long when doing a lot of off road. They just don’t like twisting up and fail pretty quickly. Ride real nice on road when new though.

JJs have come a long way the ones RockJock sells now are many iterations from those in the late 2000s and should last a long time is sizes right and serviced. Don’t see why some folks like to throw shade at em.
 

Wheelin98TJ

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Yeah what is your point? Not following.
I'm saying if you have bumpsteer, it's not caused by any of these things you mentioned.
What I was thinking could be bumpsteer from trackbar offset or tires or spring mismatch or angle of the arms which adjustable arms won’t fix.
 

bakobobby

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I'm saying if you have bumpsteer, it's not caused by any of these things you mentioned.
Ah gotcha yeah I was trying to put a bunch of things together and hastily made a mess of it. I mean to say bumpster is one ride quality factor, separate from the other “or” listed which can also cause ride quality issues. A bracket to fix geometry will offset the bar bringing it parallel or closer to stock and hence less bumpsteer.
 
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hickman785

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You could save $ and just get correction brackets if all you’re after is improved ride quality

I have the geometry correction brackets in the front combined with the Mopar performance lower control arms. That drastically improved the steering feel and response upfront. I put a set of Clayton off-road rear lower control arms to correct the angle in the back. They have bushings similar to the OEM arms.


https://www.4wd.com/p/2021-Jeep-Gladiator-Rubicon-Express-Control-Arm-Geometry-Correction-Drop-Brackets-RE9801/_/R-BKTG-RE9801?ppcfon=1&gp=1&ecmp=s:google_15863937758___&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=SC Shopping - Primary & Wheels - Performance Max&gclid=CjwKCAjw9pGjBhB-EiwAa5jl3EMThkeWHj_M0wwW4adyeurZXhSN_GGgnlH3v8B2yeMfLc46ZoWGnBoCh-4QAvD_BwE

https://www.claytonoffroad.com/product/jeep-gladiator-short-rear-lower-control-arms-2020-jt
I have the Rancho correction brackets in the front and they made a huge difference. Im most looking at rear control arms, but I may just do all 8 at once. Definitely won't do Clayton. I have the front end components to their ride right kit now and absolutely hate it.
 

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hickman785

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My ride quality got better with the Metalcloak arms
I've been leaning toward the MC arms. A local shop told me the Rock Krawler arms will ride better, but I've been told the MC arms will ride better.
 

Dougstdig

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…Definitely won't do Clayton. I have the front end components to their ride right kit now and absolutely hate it.
From reading a ton of reviews from different sources and testimony from many on this forum I can say with certainty your statement is the first of displeasure from the brand I’ve come across. Can you shed light on why your so passionately against clayton’s components?
 
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hickman785

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From reading a ton of reviews from different sources and testimony from many on this forum I can say with certainty your statement is the first of displeasure from the brand I’ve come across. Can you shed light on why your so passionately against clayton’s components?
I had the 2.5 ride right kit with the front leveling kit and the jeep rode horrible. This kit was put together by Clayton after telling them what I was looking for. The kit absolutely beat me to death. They advertised the front part of the kit as being 1.5", it isn't, it's well over 2". When I spoke with them about addressing the front lower control arms either with adjustable LCAs or correction brackets, they told me it was a waste of time because the LCAs won't affect ride quality. I finally ignored them and added some correction brackets and the ride significantly improved. Of course if their kit actually raised it only 1.5" instead around 2.5", I probably would have never needed those brackets.

I will give them credit as having the strongest rear springs on the market, because with around 700 pounds of weight on them, they did no squat at all.

I've already removed the rear end components and the ride improved a lot. I damn near had to cut the sway bar links off due to the poor design of them. The other components won't stop coming loose, meanwhile none of my other suspension components ever come loose.


Soon I'll be removing the front end components for a different brand and Im fully confident the ride quality will improve dramatically.
 

Wheelin98TJ

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I had the 2.5 ride right kit with the front leveling kit and the jeep rode horrible. This kit was put together by Clayton after telling them what I was looking for. The kit absolutely beat me to death. They advertised the front part of the kit as being 1.5", it isn't, it's well over 2". When I spoke with them about addressing the front lower control arms either with adjustable LCAs or correction brackets, they told me it was a waste of time because the LCAs won't affect ride quality. I finally ignored them and added some correction brackets and the ride significantly improved. Of course if their kit actually raised it only 1.5" instead around 2.5", I probably would have never needed those brackets.

I will give them credit as having the strongest rear springs on the market, because with around 700 pounds of weight on them, they did no squat at all.

I've already removed the rear end components and the ride improved a lot. I damn near had to cut the sway bar links off due to the poor design of them. The other components won't stop coming loose, meanwhile none of my other suspension components ever come loose.


Soon I'll be removing the front end components for a different brand and Im fully confident the ride quality will improve dramatically.
I’m confused. How did you figure the 2.5 Ride Right with a leveling kit would be less than 2.5”?
 

Panthers65

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I have the APOC adjustable control arms on mine currently. They come with rubber/poly bushings, which I will keep on my Gladiator until the warranty is up (or I start doing more stupid things with it). At that point the threaded part is standard thread and I'll remove the poly bushing side and replace it with a Johnny Joint.
 

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Rusty PW

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I'm installing Core front lower control arms tomorrow. JJ's on both ends.
 

Orange01z28

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I've been leaning toward the MC arms. A local shop told me the Rock Krawler arms will ride better, but I've been told the MC arms will ride better.
You won't be disappointed. I have no experience with RK, but MC stuff is top notch all around
 

THE SANDALORIAN

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I've been leaning toward the MC arms. A local shop told me the Rock Krawler arms will ride better, but I've been told the MC arms will ride better.
Sounds like you were told both will ride better :) You're in the Vegas area, all the arms recommended are top tier. I'd assume there is an off-road club there. If so some of the members may have the control arms you are considering, perhaps you could get some seat time with some of them. Would give you a first hand feeling of how they ride and could save you some money and frustration.
 
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hickman785

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You won't be disappointed. I have no experience with RK, but MC stuff is top notch all around
Any issues with their arms making noise? I've been told that they will get noisy over time?
 
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hickman785

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I’m confused. How did you figure the 2.5 Ride Right with a leveling kit would be less than 2.5”?
The front end has their 1.5" leveling kit...but the lift was well over 2", not 1.5...rear end is 2.5" ride right...the leveling kit and ride right kits include the same components, except the front springs are supposedly shorter...
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