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New winch and new front bumper, best way to counter balance.

NellyTooTall

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I am purchasing a winch and bumper but concerned with the sag it will create. I would like to counter balance the sag but limit changes to suspension as much as possible.

Was thinking 1”2” spacers , depending on how much sag is created, hoping it’s the least impactful.


thoughts?
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ShadowsPapa

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I am purchasing a winch and bumper but concerned with the sag it will create. I would like to counter balance the sag but limit changes to suspension as much as possible.

Was thinking 1”2” spacers , depending on how much sag is created, hoping it’s the least impactful.


thoughts?
I put Synergy 1" springs under my Overland and it brought it back up to stock height after a winch and bumper install. In fact, that's what those springs are made for.
Otherwise, spacers would do. You won't need much to bring it back to stock height up front. 1" would do it.
 

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$46 if I remember correctly.

Jeep Gladiator New winch and new front bumper, best way to counter balance. 62E3F128-4725-4D00-AB18-7AEA80F323FC
 

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Spacers.
Many to choose from.
 

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Trust me, you are gonna want to do springs. It is the same amount of work as spacers. I know a lot of people like their spacer setup but most people if they could drive a vehicle side by side with one having spacers and the other a spring lift, the spring lift is going to get picked more times than not.
 

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NellyTooTall

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With 1” springs do you believe there would be any impact to the other suspension parts?

Wondering… if you drop 1” due to bumper/winch, then regain 1” due to springs… anything impacted?
 

ShadowsPapa

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Trust me, you are gonna want to do springs. It is the same amount of work as spacers. I know a lot of people like their spacer setup but most people if they could drive a vehicle side by side with one having spacers and the other a spring lift, the spring lift is going to get picked more times than not.
Yes, because extra weight may need a different rate to match that weight. It's not just height.
I ended up doing springs because of the weight/rate matching. It'll keep my front tires on the ground better on really rough roads (like the horrible washboard gravel roads in parts of southern Iowa) Springs matched to weight do a better job of keeping the tires in contact with the ground for braking and steering.

With 1” springs do you believe there would be any impact to the other suspension parts?

Wondering… if you drop 1” due to bumper/winch, then regain 1” due to springs… anything impacted?
No. You would still be riding stock height so the front axle should remain centered or extremely close to centered, sway bar links will still be withing range and so on.

My truck rides great.

I DID end up going with their 2" springs because in the winter I add 300 pounds to the front of the truck with a snow plow. So it sits a bit higher in the summer without the plow, and just right in the winter.
But the 1" springs I had on it before the plow perfectly handled the steel bumper and winch.
Ride and handling were and are fantastic. Even my wife has commented more than once about how nicely the truck handles and rides. (she drives it now and then to keep miles off her own Jeep and she likes to drive on long trips - she's not a great passenger, some people just aren't)

I went with the Synergy springs because their ratings and testing is easy to follow (although I mis-calculated first time around, and got mixed messages from the sales people) and they are dual-rate springs with more coils than typical JT springs, and guaranteed to not bow.



(I should list my Synergy 1" springs for sale - with the snow plow I likely won't put them back on. I don't know what shipping would cost, I only had them on the truck for 3 or 4 months)
 

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Yes, because extra weight may need a different rate to match that weight. It's not just height.
I ended up doing springs because of the weight/rate matching. It'll keep my front tires on the ground better on really rough roads (like the horrible washboard gravel roads in parts of southern Iowa) Springs matched to weight do a better job of keeping the tires in contact with the ground for braking and steering.
Easiest way to think about this...if you lost height due to adding weight, how did you lose it? That's right, the spring compressed. Adding a spacer won't give you that travel you just lost back. It'll give you the height back, but the spring will stay just as compressed as it was before the spacer.

Now, 1" is not a huge deal and most people will be happy with the spacer, but if you're looking for the "best" way, it's with a new spring.
 

ShadowsPapa

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Easiest way to think about this...if you lost height due to adding weight, how did you lose it? That's right, the spring compressed. Adding a spacer won't give you that travel you just lost back. It'll give you the height back, but the spring will stay just as compressed as it was before the spacer.

Now, 1" is not a huge deal and most people will be happy with the spacer, but if you're looking for the "best" way, it's with a new spring.
Yes, that's another reason I went with springs - lost travel. And that was noted when I hit a pavement dip and for the first time on that spot, I could feel it. Normally my truck just floated through that intersection.

1" was a fairly big deal for me as it made my rake just that much worse.
And losing that much spring travel wasn't a nice thing, knowing springs and suspension.

If a person simply wants to take rake out with no added weight at all, spacers are fine, but recovering lost height due to weight - springs are the way.

I can take rough roads and dips without bottoming or binding coils.
 

TARHEELKIDD

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Yes, because extra weight may need a different rate to match that weight. It's not just height.
I ended up doing springs because of the weight/rate matching. It'll keep my front tires on the ground better on really rough roads (like the horrible washboard gravel roads in parts of southern Iowa) Springs matched to weight do a better job of keeping the tires in contact with the ground for braking and steering.



No. You would still be riding stock height so the front axle should remain centered or extremely close to centered, sway bar links will still be withing range and so on.

My truck rides great.

I DID end up going with their 2" springs because in the winter I add 300 pounds to the front of the truck with a snow plow. So it sits a bit higher in the summer without the plow, and just right in the winter.
But the 1" springs I had on it before the plow perfectly handled the steel bumper and winch.
Ride and handling were and are fantastic. Even my wife has commented more than once about how nicely the truck handles and rides. (she drives it now and then to keep miles off her own Jeep and she likes to drive on long trips - she's not a great passenger, some people just aren't)

I went with the Synergy springs because their ratings and testing is easy to follow (although I mis-calculated first time around, and got mixed messages from the sales people) and they are dual-rate springs with more coils than typical JT springs, and guaranteed to not bow.



(I should list my Synergy 1" springs for sale - with the snow plow I likely won't put them back on. I don't know what shipping would cost, I only had them on the truck for 3 or 4 months)
Approximately, how much would installation cost? For certain reasons, I am not allowed to do this kind of work on my Jeep any longer, lol
 

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ShadowsPapa

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Approximately, how much would installation cost? For certain reasons, I am not allowed to do this kind of work on my Jeep any longer, lol
That's going to vary with location and who does it.
My dealership said about $400 for swapping front springs if I had them do it. They are a bit under $200/hour labor.
With Synergy springs, they are tall uncompressed (multiple rate springs) so a spring compressor makes the job a heck of a lot easier and faster, otherwise you really have to drop the front axle far to get them in.

Jeep Gladiator New winch and new front bumper, best way to counter balance. 20220907_105029


Jeep Gladiator New winch and new front bumper, best way to counter balance. 1685729658208
 

TARHEELKIDD

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That's going to vary with location and who does it.
My dealership said about $400 for swapping front springs if I had them do it. They are a bit under $200/hour labor.
With Synergy springs, they are tall uncompressed (multiple rate springs) so a spring compressor makes the job a heck of a lot easier and faster, otherwise you really have to drop the front axle far to get them in.

20220907_105029.jpg


1685729658208.png
Thanks. I will check with my local 4x4 shop. They do lift kits and upgrades for trucks for various local dealerships, Chevy, Ford and Jeep. I will check and make sue they can do the swap without dropping the axle. If I go that route, I would be interested in buying your used springs. I do have a winch bumper, steel cable winch installed. I have bought the synthetic rope to swap out an alleviate some of the weight.
 

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That's going to vary with location and who does it.
My dealership said about $400 for swapping front springs if I had them do it. They are a bit under $200/hour labor.
With Synergy springs, they are tall uncompressed (multiple rate springs) so a spring compressor makes the job a heck of a lot easier and faster, otherwise you really have to drop the front axle far to get them in.

20220907_105029.jpg


1685729658208.webp
This photo shows massive clearance between the bump stop and spacer (or lack there of maybe?) I added a winch/bumper about 150lbs. Apparently I have a 2.5" spacer lift on the front of my 80th Anniversary. Bump stops looks to be getting best up with the lack of clearance. Thinking of adding Mopar 2" coils and keeping the spacer. What are your thought on that AND the amount of space seen here...(sorry can't seem to figure out how to attach pics from my phone on this site, so. QUOTE from my other thread with the pic will follow...)
 

The Yeti

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Long story short, apparently I have an "aftermarket 2" to 2 1/2" lift. Took some pics for reference. I went and toon a look and There looks to be a 2.25" (Ima call it a 2" spacer) on the top of the coil spring. The, what I'm gona call, the lower bump stop spacer, looks to be like a silver (billet maybe?). Is this bump stop spacer factory or did it likely come from the "lift" that was apparently put on before I bought it? Also, how long are the factory stabilizer bar end links? Mine look to be about 10"'s or so. Haven't got under the back yet to check for the same but I'll follow up with the same Q&A later. Anyway, looking g to know what I have now, so when I make some changed I know what I have, what I need and how I can make changes in a smart way rather than replacing things that might already be there...
1.jpg
7.jpg
 

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That last pic shows the spring bowing…have the shop reseat that spring at the base, you’ll notice a difference after that’s corrected.
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