"opinion" on this sort of winch use

[ShadowsPapa]

This. Stop over thinking it. Most trailers have some sort of front rail just attach to that with a chain or soft tie and pully, then park your at an angle to the trailer. It's not like you are dragging a block of concrete with no wheels.

I'm looking at it for two different scenarios - one, pulling my own vehicle onto my own trailer,
and the other - when someone comes to pick up this car.
For the latter a snatch block on the trailer then the rope run from my truck through the snatch block at the front of the trailer and then back to the car being pulled into the trailer might work out.
I won't have the ability to get next to the trailer considering where things are - I'd have to nose the front of my truck in at angle. (sort of like an up-side-down Y)

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[Lunentucker]

Where's your sense of adventure?

 

[ShadowsPapa]

You can park the JT next to the trailer queen and get almost a straight pull.

HAHA, trailer queen with almost 200,000 miles on it.
Not sure how in the world one would park your tow vehicle next to the trailer and pull a vehicle onto a trailer just sitting there.

 

[rharr]

I'm looking at it for two different scenarios - one, pulling my own vehicle onto my own trailer,
and the other - when someone comes to pick up this car.
For the latter a snatch block on the trailer then the rope run from my truck through the snatch block at the front of the trailer and then back to the car being pulled into the trailer might work out.
I won't have the ability to get next to the trailer considering where things are - I'd have to nose the front of my truck in at angle. (sort of like an up-side-down Y)

Another option is to buy a cheap adjustable harbor freight ball hitch, and weld a 2" receiver tube with pin hole to the top so you can install your cradle mounted winch to it and then just run some long jump cables off your battery to your winch plug.

https://www.amazon.com/MaxxHaul-700...ocphy=9030237&hvtargid=pla-434618995836&psc=1

or somthing like this

https://www.amazon.com/45810-Multi-...ocphy=9030237&hvtargid=pla-380692432688&psc=1

might add some 1/4" strap welded to create a triangle for piece on mind.

 

[Lunentucker]

Not sure how in the world one would park your tow vehicle next to the trailer and pull a vehicle onto a trailer just sitting there.

I've seen the off-road recovery folks load vehicles this way. A longer strap works best, so someone can steer the car onto the trailer counteracting the tendency to drift to the side it's being pulled from.

 

[Sandevino]

No, not in his idea it wouldn't change a thing as far as load.
He's talking snatch block to change the direction of pull, not to halve it.
Besides, a load of 1500 pounds is nothing - we're talking a rolling vehicle on a small incline.

In my mind I was thinking a double line pull, attaching the hook to the d-ring on my bumper.

 

[Deleted member 57233]

Where's your sense of adventure?

lol this is more my style! My last sketchy load was rolling the z car down a hill into the back of a uhaul using some oak planks and jack stands I found in the shed ?

 

[Lunentucker]

lol this is more my style! My last sketchy load was rolling the z car down a hill into the back of a uhaul using some oak planks and jack stands I found in the shed ?

That's a clean looking Z for Virginia humidity!

 

[Deleted member 57233]

That's a clean looking Z for Virginia humidity!

Found it in PA up by Erie actually. It sat in that shed for 30+ years

 

[WILDHOBO]

I have a 2" front receiver on my JT, and a Badland Apex 12,000 winch on the front.
I get involved with cars, trailering them and so on and am currently in the process of trying to give away a car I've had sitting around for a while - it must be trailered due to age of tires and condition of certain other parts.
2 of the people interested in coming to get the car have asked about loading it onto a trailer or whatever. +
Generally no problem with a come-along although time consuming due to the limited pull distance before you must unwind the come-along and get another grip. Pulling up ramps and onto an 18' trailer can take a bit of time at 3 feet at a time.
I've done some reading and research into how much effort it takes to pull a car up an incline like trailer ramps or even a tilt bed trailer and honestly, even a 2500 pound winch is more than enough - most figure at a 10% incline a 2500 pound winch could pull a rolling load of over 10,000 pounds.
So I'm thinking about a winch on my tilt-bed trailer at some point.......... but in the meantime, and what about pulling a load onto someone else's trailer?

Idea - but would it work?
hook onto the other guy's trailer with my front receiver/hitch.
Then pull a car onto their trailer.
HOWEVER - that brings up other possible issues, like many trailers have a front rail, and a car at the bottom of the ramps means the rope would be laying on the trailer at the bottom end.
Would it be an issue having the winch rope drag across a front rail of a trailer, or along the bottom/back edge of a trailer until the car peaks at the top of any ramps and is above the trailer bed?
Could a person lay down something like pieces of pipe to hold the rope off the trailer bed or edge of the trailer?

Trying to think through things and find faster, easier, more creative ways of loading dead cars.
And also - when one of your cars is a stick and you are loading onto a trailer, you abuse the clutch a bit and must be QUICK at the top end, disengage and hit the brakes which is hard on a truck/trailer/hitch combination and jerks things around a bit. In a way it's actually safer to load even a perfectly running car onto a trailer with a winch.

Anyway, rather than a come-along with only 3 feet of working distance before you stop, block the car, shorten the chain or rope and run the come-along out and start again it takes a lot of work and time. A winch would be better - could I use my winch and front receiver combo to do it?

I’d just attach a soft shackle and pulley to the front of the trailer from whatever angle allows you to avoid the car or trailer rigging. Then go through the pulley to the vehicle being loaded. It’ll take just a minute and you can leave the trailer hooked up to the tow vehicle the whole time.

 

[Lost1wing]

I like the idea of the snatch block at the front of the trailer.

I have jack knifed my truck and trailer and had a second vehicle pull the load up with a strap. My trailer ramps also support the trailer as the load comes up. If it is a good roller, it won't take much to move. Like you said a 2500lb winch should do.

The Badlands 12k will pull a locked axle and 4 flat tires on a Jetta up my ramps. So don't back yourself into a corner with a 2500lb winch just to get the job done.

 

[chorky]

With a 12K winch you have more than enough capacity. Safe-x-tract has a cool little app to calculate loads based on varying terrain and vehicle damage and status. Assuming a 5,000 pound car the resistance would be 1,292 pounds. As others have mentioned I think the biggest concern would adding a sleeve or two to avoid damaging the synthetic line.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I'm thinking more that I like the idea of at least with this car, which should roll easily (funny thing, the car has been sitting by my shop for 5 years and when I went to air the tires up, each had over 20 psi in them!) so in this case, I'll move my trailer out of the way, pull the car ahead several feet with my truck so I can pull my truck off to the side if the front of their trailer and pull the car on - easy as it shouldn't take more than about 1500 pounds or so of pull.

My trailer will move - green X
The car is the one with the red X on the roof
I'll put my truck where the blue box is facing east (to the right) and they can back up to the car.

Should work fine.

Was worth asking as got good ideas and can use the sleeves if necessary to protect the rope at the back end of the trailer if it rubs on the trailer in any place.

Property line is where that wall or row of blocks is that prevents a huge wall of water coming at my shop in event of a heavy rain. So I've got to do all of this to the left of that block wall.
It's loose gravel on the right of my shops concrete approach and starting at that corner of the concrete, the gravel goes up sharply - meaning it's all up hill loose gravel in that area.
It looks flat from the air, but far from it.

Thanks all - it will save a ton of messing around and make loading that car really easy.

 

[bd100]

Maybe this?

More Power Puller

 

[Lost1wing]

I'm thinking more that I like the idea of at least with this car, which should roll easily (funny thing, the car has been sitting by my shop for 5 years and when I went to air the tires up, each had over 20 psi in them!) so in this case, I'll move my trailer out of the way, pull the car ahead several feet with my truck so I can pull my truck off to the side if the front of their trailer and pull the car on - easy as it shouldn't take more than about 1500 pounds or so of pull.

My trailer will move - green X
The car is the one with the red X on the roof
I'll put my truck where the blue box is facing east (to the right) and they can back up to the car.

Should work fine.

Was worth asking as got good ideas and can use the sleeves if necessary to protect the rope at the back end of the trailer if it rubs on the trailer in any place.

Property line is where that wall or row of blocks is that prevents a huge wall of water coming at my shop in event of a heavy rain. So I've got to do all of this to the left of that block wall.
It's loose gravel on the right of my shops concrete approach and starting at that corner of the concrete, the gravel goes up sharply - meaning it's all up hill loose gravel in that area.
It looks flat from the air, but far from it.

Thanks all - it will save a ton of messing around and make loading that car really easy.

Maybe strap the giveaway to the trailer and pull it forward a bit. Some people just can't back up a trailer to save their own life.

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