Center Console & Bed 12v outlet Install

[Woodrow]

Hi everyone, I've recently purchased a 2022 Gladiator Sport and would like two things:

• a 12v outlet in the center console
• a 12v outlet in the truck bed

I'd like both to be able to power a 12v refrigerator (not at the same time, of course), along with a cell phone or iPad. I don't have the max tow package. Would it work to just install something like this directly to the battery? If so, is there any harm in installing two?

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[Biggy]

I installed a 12v outlet in the bed and went direct to the battery with a fuse. I don't see an issue with installing another one in the cab. It will obviously be powered at all times, so you would want to monitor anything you leave plugged in while the ignition is off so as not to drain your battery.

 

[ChrisNLA]

Hi everyone, I've recently purchased a 2022 Gladiator Sport and would like two things:

• a 12v outlet in the center console
• a 12v outlet in the truck bed

I'd like both to be able to power a 12v refrigerator (not at the same time, of course), along with a cell phone or iPad. I don't have the max tow package. Would it work to just install something like this directly to the battery? If so, is there any harm in installing two?

I added two plugs to my center console. One of them was for a fridge (I ran bigger wire for that one) and one was for anything else I wanted (phone charger, etc). I just ran them straight to the battery, with a fuse at the battery for each outlet. No issues.

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/...max-tow-boring-daily-build.62680/post-1044512

However - I HATE using cigarette style outlets for a fridge. They inevitably always seem to wiggle loose and the fridge turns off at some point. I had an ARB fridge in a previous Jeep and much prefer their setup, so I am going to install this in the bed:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0742LV4J...KRX336LM&psc=1&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it

I'll just tolerate using the cigarette outlet should the fridge end up in the cab on occasion, which is unlikely because of how much larger the new one is. We'll see. I usually wrap the end of the cord in tape so it cannot move / wiggle and is tight in the outlet.

Anyway, ARB outlet will allow me to use this cord:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QBRYS6...KRX336LM&psc=1&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Which screws in and cannot shake loose. It should work with just about any 12V fridge out there (I plan to use it with my new Iceco APL55).

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Don't wire directly to the battery unless you fuse that wire close to the battery.
Make the wire BIG enough - that's a long run back to the bed area if you go where I did.
Fuse it to protect the wire running back there.

Max tow package doesn't matter electrically. The wiring will be the same.

 

[Woodrow]

I installed a 12v outlet in the bed and went direct to the battery with a fuse. I don't see an issue with installing another one in the cab. It will obviously be powered at all times, so you would want to monitor anything you leave plugged in while the ignition is off so as not to drain your battery.

That looks really clean. Did you install the outlet directly into the plastic bit covering the hole in the bed?

 

[Woodrow]

I added two plugs to my center console. One of them was for a fridge (I ran bigger wire for that one) and one was for anything else I wanted (phone charger, etc). I just ran them straight to the battery, with a fuse at the battery for each outlet. No issues.

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/...max-tow-boring-daily-build.62680/post-1044512

However - I HATE using cigarette style outlets for a fridge. They inevitably always seem to wiggle loose and the fridge turns off at some point. I had an ARB fridge in a previous Jeep and much prefer their setup, so I am going to install this in the bed:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0742LV4J...KRX336LM&psc=1&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it

I'll just tolerate using the cigarette outlet should the fridge end up in the cab on occasion, which is unlikely because of how much larger the new one is. We'll see. I usually wrap the end of the cord in tape so it cannot move / wiggle and is tight in the outlet.

Anyway, ARB outlet will allow me to use this cord:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QBRYS6...KRX336LM&psc=1&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Which screws in and cannot shake loose. It should work with just about any 12V fridge out there (I plan to use it with my new Iceco APL55).

Thanks so much for the links! I'd like the same setup in the cab: one for a fridge and the other for smaller devices. I'm also looking at the same fridge you mention, thanks!

 

[Woodrow]

Don't wire directly to the battery unless you fuse that wire close to the battery.
Make the wire BIG enough - that's a long run back to the bed area if you go where I did.
Fuse it to protect the wire running back there.

Max tow package doesn't matter electrically. The wiring will be the same.

I don't have much experience with electrical work. If you don't mind me asking, why does the fuse distance matter? Also, you say "if" I wire directly to the battery, is there another option that I'm unaware of? Thanks for the input so far.

 

[danimal2000]

I don't have much experience with electrical work. If you don't mind me asking, why does the fuse distance matter? Also, you say "if" I wire directly to the battery, is there another option that I'm unaware of? Thanks for the input so far.

I plan to do 4 things in that plug same as ShadowsPapa. But I will wire 12ga wire using a fusetap in the fusebox to a 20amp fuse. Fuse 52 is no longer used on mine since I did the Mopar brake controller

BioFuse 12 AWG Micro2 APT ATR Quick TAP KIT: 2 Add-A-Circuit Car Fuse Tap Adapters, 2 Each (10A 20A) Micro 2 Blade Fuses, 4 Zip Ties + Fuse Puller https://a.co/d/8fw0PwG

Fuse52 I'm pretty sure it's ACC only so it's dead when truck isn't running. But ibelive you can pick another that's always live if you wanted

 

[Mr._Bill]

The fuse is to protect the wire, not the device(s) at the end of it. It prevents pulling more than the wire can support, which can result in melted wires and fires. The fuse should be at the beginning of the run, where the wire connects to the source, and matched to the capacity of the wire.

 

[Woodrow]

The fuse is to protect the wire, not the device(s) at the end of it. It prevents pulling more than the wire can support, which can result in melted wires and fires. The fuse should be at the beginning of the run, where the wire connects to the source, and matched to the capacity of the wire.

Thanks for the explanation!

 

[Biggy]

That looks really clean. Did you install the outlet directly into the plastic bit covering the hole in the bed?

Yes I did. The plastic is thick enough with some ribbing on the back so it's solid.

 

[ChrisNLA]

Thanks so much for the links! I'd like the same setup in the cab: one for a fridge and the other for smaller devices. I'm also looking at the same fridge you mention, thanks!

You welcome. Mine should arrive today - anxious to see if its worth the hype. I waited until the silver one came out vs having the black in the truck bed / sometimes in the sun.

 

[stingrey]

Here's a simple solution for the back, depending on your needs and frequency of use.
I don't have or use one. I just figured that these days, somebody out there makes an adapter for just about everything. This is what a search turned up.

Trailer 7 Pin to 12v Adapter

 

[Woodrow]

Here's a simple solution for the back, depending on your needs and frequency of use.
I don't have or use one. I just figured that these days, somebody out there makes an adapter for just about everything. This is what a search turned up.

Trailer 7 Pin to 12v Adapter

Wow, this is a really interesting option that I haven't seen anywhere. I'm going to consider it, thanks!

 

[PDACPA]

I was looking into this over the weekend. My Gladiator actually has the bed 115 as a delete on the Monroeny. I speculate it was due to parts shortages for the manufacturer to delete it.

This guy installed the OEM outlet and the switch on the dash. It is a pretty basic install, but you have to remove all the dash just to swap out the panel that holds the switch. I like the OEM look of it, but not sure I want to yank my dash apart (I know I will break a clip or something!

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