My Lift Plan

[Grump Fish]

That's a great picture to get an idea of how it squats with a reasonable load. I would guess a 3/4" rear puck would put it perfectly level towing that load and have a little of the factory rake unloaded. Do you have the Max Tow package?

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[ChrisNLA]

Yep, mine is a Max Tow.

 

[Jimko71]

My truck with a 1.5" Teraflex spacer up front. Not too bad.

Chris - Did you add anything else with the Teraflex kit? I am thinking of doing the same thing on mine but keep reading conflicting posts on whether the Mopar LCAs should be added or shock extension brackets. I honestly thought anything 1.5 inches or less would not need anything else.

 

[ChrisNLA]

Chris - Did you add anything else with the Teraflex kit? I am thinking of doing the same thing on mine but keep reading conflicting posts on whether the Mopar LCAs should be added or shock extension brackets. I honestly thought anything 1.5 inches or less would not need anything else.

I have only the spacers in. Nothing else other than Apex AutoLynx sway bar disconnects. I DO have the Mopar LCA's in the closet (they've been in there nearly a year now lol) to install eventually to see if the slight increase caster makes a different in drivability, but my truck drives like stock as is. I haven't noticed the shocks topping out or anything while driving. I have wheeled it and have fully flexed it at Merus Adventure Park as well - didn't notice any issues there.

 

[Jimko71]

I have only the spacers in. Nothing else other than Apex AutoLynx sway bar disconnects. I DO have the Mopar LCA's in the closet (they've been in there nearly a year now lol) to install eventually to see if the slight increase caster makes a different in drivability, but my truck drives like stock as is. I haven't noticed the shocks topping out or anything while driving. I have wheeled it and have fully flexed it at Merus Adventure Park as well - didn't notice any issues there.

Perfect and thanks. Ordering today with some Rancho 5000x shocks.

 

[Batlou]

If I had made up my mind to buy a spacer lift I would just get the AEV kit. Its around $500 and includes everything you need to raise it up about 2". If you plan to do any off roading save up a bit and for about 2K you can get some nice lift kits that will get the job done. I have Teraflex/Clayton on my Wrangler. Full Clayton on the Gladiator and I just installed the AEV 2.5" lift on my sons Jeep. I really like the AEV kits. His was around 1800 and had everything he needed including shocks (they are bilstein 5100's).

 

[Jimko71]

If I had made up my mind to buy a spacer lift I would just get the AEV kit. Its around $500 and includes everything you need to raise it up about 2". If you plan to do any off roading save up a bit and for about 2K you can get some nice lift kits that will get the job done. I have Teraflex/Clayton on my Wrangler. Full Clayton on the Gladiator and I just installed the AEV 2.5" lift on my sons Jeep. I really like the AEV kits. His was around 1800 and had everything he needed including shocks (they are bilstein 5100's).

I am just interested in getting rid of the rake and put slightly larger tires on it. I don't wheel and any "off roading" would be limited to trails.

 

[Pescatoral Pursuit]

Front and Rear Adjustable Track Bars (Haven't decided which brand)

Get the adjustable front track bar.
There is NEVER a need or benefit to an adjustable rear track bar.
Instead get a rear track bar relocation bracket. It will bring your track bar back to horizontal (or near) which will greatly improve ride quality.

A few other things I learned after installing a couple lifts on my JT while familiarizing with how it all works:
Correct bump stop spacing is important to prevent shocks from bottoming out, and to provide tire to frame/ body clearance.

Front sway bar link ends should restore sway bar "arm" angle to slightly inclined from front to back.
Rear links should put the arm in a slightly declined angle front to back.

If your steering/ ride quality feels prone to wandering as you drive on a straight, flat road, (and tires are properly inflated/ even wear) you need more caster in the front axle.

Money spent on high quality shock absorbers is money well spent. If you have a lift budget, allocate far more to shocks which have a much broader range of performance than chunks of metal like control arms, track bars, etc. even most coil springs, where variation from the highest $ to the lowest $ is negligible.

Everyone likes to brag about their favorite brands, but unless you're running the Baja 500, there's likely no functional difference between their individual components. It's more important to have in a kit, the necessary components which accommodate a complete and proper suspension alteration, and some of these kits have plenty of unnecessary components while omitting parts which help in restoring OE ride quality.

I don’t recommend the Mopar extended LCA’s. I purchased them originally for my frankenlift, and they didn’t work- they pushed the front axle just a wee bit off kilter, resulting in driving around for a week with a significant pull to the right after alignment. I now have teraflex alpines. 5x the cost for the set, but the adjustability is really helpful.

Did you measure them? Were they equal? It sounds more like either one of the parts or something on your frame or axle may be out of spec.

 

[Dougstdig]

Is your recommendation for a complete kit based on support from the kit manufacturer? I thought about that as a potential issue.
I haven't looked at Metalcloak or Icon, since I have considered them to be more hard core offroad equipment than she really needs. Might be worth taking a look though.

Spring height isn’t just a taller spring. It’s also a different spring rate…possibly a dual or triple rate spring. When you mix match parts you are doing your own R&D, when it’s already been done for you by manufacturers offering complete kits. They’ve mixed and matched. They’ve ironed out possible ill affects to complete their kit.

Everyone’s needs may be different. Do you run with no added weight up front or in the bed. Do you run a plow? Do you carry tools 24/7? Rack? Tent?

Some manufacturers anticipate a steel bumper / winch combo with their base kits, but offer heavier duty rear springs in the rear for those carrying a bed shell or rack tent set up. @claytonoffroad for example has done this. Customer service seems to be spot on.

When you take these chores upon yourself you are driving blind and very well may either end up with a rig with components that don’t work well or not as well as they could. Take advantage of the R&D that your are paying for in each part as they’re meant to work like a system. Step outside of this and not only are you rolling the dice, but you’ll be left high and dry if issues arise…causing you to spend unneeded dollars to correct your errors. My $0.02.

 

[Dougstdig]

Get the adjustable front track bar.
There is NEVER a need or benefit to an adjustable rear track bar.
Instead get a rear track bar relocation bracket. It will bring your track bar back to horizontal (or near) which will greatly improve ride quality.

I done agree. Gladiators are limited in space as to mounting a larger spare tires in the stock location. The perfect fix is a Clayton rear track bar, which allows for a 37”+ spare depending on the tire manufacturer…and it’s adjustable. I believe another manufacturer followed suit, but can’t remember which. The alternative is to mount it in the bed where you have to worry about theft, higher center of gravity and loss of functionality wasting bed storage space. So using NEVER, is not well thought out.

 

[Pescatoral Pursuit]

I done agree. Gladiators are limited in space as to mounting a larger spare tires in the stock location. The perfect fix is a Clayton rear track bar, which allows for a 37”+ spare depending on the tire manufacturer…and it’s adjustable. I believe another manufacturer followed suit, but can’t remember which. The alternative is to mount it in the bed where you have to worry about theft, higher center of gravity and loss of functionality wasting bed storage space. So using NEVER, is not well thought out.

Stay thirsty my friend.

In my case, one would have to remove the heat shield between the spare tire location and the tailpipe before encountering interference with a spare tire and the track bar.

But for the OP's discussion, and general suspension lift geometry and practicality, my assessment is correct:
One will NEVER NEED an ADJUSTABLE rear track bar.

In my opinion and experience, overemphasis on an adjustable rear track bar has overshadowed the much greater practical benefit of installing a rear track bar relocation bracket which is perfectly accommodating to the factory track bar.

 

[JT1]

Stay thirsty my friend.

In my case, one would have to remove the heat shield between the spare tire location and the tailpipe before encountering interference with a spare tire and the track bar.

But for the OP's discussion, and general suspension lift geometry and practicality, my assessment is correct:
One will NEVER NEED an ADJUSTABLE rear track bar.

In my opinion and experience, overemphasis on an adjustable rear track bar has overshadowed the much greater practical benefit of installing a rear track bar relocation bracket which is perfectly accommodating to the factory track bar.

Do both? I have the bracket for the geometry improvement and the bent bar so I can put the 37 under the jeep.

 

[Pescatoral Pursuit]

Do both? I have the bracket for the geometry improvement and the bent bar so I can put the 37 under the jeep.

It's your money. My adjustable rear track bar with "spare tire bend" has sat in my garage as long as my fully inflated 37" KO2 spare has sat in the spare tire well with the factory track bar and has more clearance than the heat shield. Ntm, at about 3+inches of lift the rear axle was still centered before the relocation bracket went in, so what is the purpose of an adjustable rear track bar?

 

[JT1]

It's your money. My adjustable rear track bar with "spare tire bend" has sat in my garage as long as my fully inflated 37" KO2 spare has sat in the spare tire well with the factory track bar and has more clearance than the heat shield. Ntm, at about 3+inches of lift the rear axle was still centered before the relocation bracket went in, so what is the purpose of an adjustable rear track bar?

KO2s are small, mine measures 36.5" at 20psi. It hit the trackbar when the suspension cycled.

 

[Wheelin98TJ]

It's your money. My adjustable rear track bar with "spare tire bend" has sat in my garage as long as my fully inflated 37" KO2 spare has sat in the spare tire well with the factory track bar and has more clearance than the heat shield. Ntm, at about 3+inches of lift the rear axle was still centered before the relocation bracket went in, so what is the purpose of an adjustable rear track bar?

Fine tuning adjustment when a bracket will not center the axle.

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