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First time ever replacing pads and rotors. Did not go well...

WanderingJ

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Could have been worse, here's what happens if your caliper bolts AREN'T tight enough :/
actually made it about ten miles out on this temp fix
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I had something similar happen on JK. did brakes and next day had a few places to run to. I hear this terrible grinding sound. one of the caliper bolts came lose so the caliper was partially on and resting against the rim.
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Gren71

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I had something similar happen on JK. did brakes and next day had a few places to run to. I hear this terrible grinding sound. one of the caliper bolts came lose so the caliper was partially on and resting against the rim.
Funny enough…I also had this happen on my JKU haha

@XraytecH

Whats the part # for the replacement bolt you ordered? I have new brakes and calipers inbound now and honestly forgot to order the extra bolt and stud I learned I need to keep on hand after doing my Jks brakes.
 
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XraytecH

XraytecH

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Funny enough…I also had this happen on my JKU haha

@XraytecH

Whats the part # for the replacement bolt you ordered? I have new brakes and calipers inbound now and honestly forgot to order the extra bolt and stud I learned I need to keep on hand after doing my Jks brakes.
Front 06104258AA
Rear 06104234AA
 

Solar Sparky

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That may be a big part of it. There's a list of torque specs for steering and suspension in these forums somewhere........ REAL torque specs from FCA themselves for Gladiator - not Wrangler from 5 years ago. Not sure there's any brake torque specs, though.

Brakes, suspension and steering I often do torque - but I have torque specs in hand first and if new bolts are required, the specs will say "one time use bolts".
Some systems I've done so much work on I can tighten from memory - do 50 GM brakes and you don't need a torque wrench after the first few.

These trucks have a mix of torque, torque plus angle and torque to yield so ya gotta look before leaping (easier to say than do!)
Fact is, reusing hardware is just not a good idea. You can’t see the micro-fractures. No engineer worth his salt, would put his name behind used hardware, especially for brakes. Inconvenient, but true
 

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ShadowsPapa

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ShadowsPapa

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Fact is, reusing hardware is just not a good idea. You can’t see the micro-fractures. No engineer worth his salt, would put his name behind used hardware, especially for brakes. Inconvenient, but true
Normally, in the past, we'd replace pads, rebuild calipers (or wheel cylinders) and put in a brake hardware kit. No one I knew would shove pistons back into calipers or wheel cylinders.

Pads/shoes, resurface rotors/drums, rebuild calipers/wheel cylinders, install brake hardware kit, flush brake lines/bleed.
Bleeding was done until clean fluid came out, not just until air was gone.
If someone came in and said "toss in a new set of pads" or "install new brake shoes", it was a no.
 

Gren71

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Normally, in the past, we'd replace pads, rebuild calipers (or wheel cylinders) and put in a brake hardware kit. No one I knew would shove pistons back into calipers or wheel cylinders.

Pads/shoes, resurface rotors/drums, rebuild calipers/wheel cylinders, install brake hardware kit, flush brake lines/bleed.
Bleeding was done until clean fluid came out, not just until air was gone.
If someone came in and said "toss in a new set of pads" or "install new brake shoes", it was a no.
bleeding brake lines is one of the maintenance items I probably need to do, but just makes me nervous. I did it once on a motorcycle and F-ed it all the way up.

what is the trick for the rear brake? I read in either this thread, or another, that there is an adjustment or some such for the parking brakes. But i cant seem to find any videos on it and definitely didnt do that when I did the brakes on my JKU.
 
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XraytecH

XraytecH

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Fact is, reusing hardware is just not a good idea. You can’t see the micro-fractures. No engineer worth his salt, would put his name behind used hardware, especially for brakes. Inconvenient, but true
Starting to think along those lines.
 

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Badunit

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Still gotta know what year, I guess. I was comparing that table to what the service manual for a 2023 Gladiator says and at least one bolt was different. Rear Caliper Adapter Bolt is 92 ft lb in the service manual, not 74 ft lb.
 

ShadowsPapa

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Still gotta know what year, I guess. I was comparing that table to what the service manual for a 2023 Gladiator says and at least one bolt was different. Rear Caliper Adapter Bolt is 92 ft lb in the service manual, not 74 ft lb.
Are the bolts the same size?

As far as bolts, if they are not one time use, or TTY, everyone always uses those without issues. Heck, pros even use rod bolts, main bolts, head bolts and so on over again unless it's a race engine holding crazy HP.
There's a lot of bolts used that don't have the stresses on them that some hardware has - so one has to look at that as well.
As long as they aren't torqued to beyond a certain point, there's no risks, no worries.
Know your fasteners, the metals, the strength of the fastener and their max torque abilities and you'll be fine.
(I keep machinists handbooks, torque charts and other fun stuff around)
 

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XraytecH

XraytecH

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Still gotta know what year, I guess. I was comparing that table to what the service manual for a 2023 Gladiator says and at least one bolt was different. Rear Caliper Adapter Bolt is 92 ft lb in the service manual, not 74 ft lb.
I went with 92ft lbs on the rear, that might be the issue.
 
 







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